JGTC

KR4 > KV2 i love that silver, and series III's look awesome, a great result to your search, all the best!

The R34 GT-t was built by Nissan to compete directly with the BMW M3 of that time. I think the R34 will win over the M3, just due to the weight difference

Take her shopping, Melbourne has the best places to shop out of all the states, maybe an AFL game? It's all in the chemistry, not the geography all the best =)

Clean and tidy car, good price as well, i just have a few inquiries, where is the front strut bruce? It's not there in the engine bay pic if my eyes serve me properly. Where abouts do you get your car serviced? And where abouts in Sydney are you located? Cheers, Danny -Edit: Sorry i failed to not that they did not come with strut bruces, my mistake, sorry to used to R34's

Haha the faithful thread starter, thankyou! My manners, on a thread about etiquette haha, shameful, thank you mate, asking the right questions are actually just as important as the answers. Cheers Simon!

Alot of good information in this thread, cheers Richard and Kristian, i'm looking to import a N/A R34 for the first time so every bit of information helps. Cheers, Danny

That's tough, i gotta ask, can you negotiate on price for cars like these? Not that i could ever buy one or would negotiate over one but do people haggle over car royalty?

I love that KY0 silver, looks heaps nice, and much more modern. All the best cant wait to see the finished product, a photoshoot should be in order!

Congrats!, car looks the business, the gold on black plates go perfectly with the advans, pure class, love it! Inspiration for a hopefully to-be owner of a R34. Danny

Thanks a heap guys, i think one of the major flaws in the Meguiars range is that the sealant is in the wax itself, i've been finding that for the better brands, sealant are usually on their own or with a polish and the wax is just on its own. I read a bit about "Glazing" what is it? and where does it fall in the process of detailing? Should i ever get my car, (finding one in Japan), i'll need a whole new wardrobe of products as what i've got now is really mediocre, but since my 626 is white it doesn't look heaps bad. Thanks again guys for your help, i got a long way to go lol Danny

Thanks mate, exactly what i needed to know, just my first question, after doing my 5 steps, the following week i want to wash the car, can i simply wash, then slap another coat of wax? or do i have to go through all my steps again? I ask because i only had time to put one layer of wax on that day (after the 5 steps), i wanted to put a few more on but i need to know if i have to go through all the steps of cleaning the paint before putting on the wax.

Hi, while searching for a R34, i've been using my 91' Mazda 626 as a guinea pig in my search for detailing experience I have made the mistake of buying some initial Meguiars stuff, so to keep it consistent with their detailing process i have all of their their 5-step kit, i don't have a Random orbital so this what i normally do. 1. Wash (first time with Dawn dish soap) to rid of previous waxes etc 2. Clay with Megs. Quik Clay Kit 3. Wash (Megs. NXT wash) 4. Apply Megs. Paint Cleaner and buff off with a terry towel by hand 5. Apply Megs. Deep Crystal Polish with a Megs. hand applicator and buff off with terry towel by hand 6. Apply Megs. NXT Tech Wax 2.0 with the provided hand applicator, waited a while then buffed off with a microfiber cloth Ok to do with this current routine, during the week the car has picked up some dirt, one bird dropping, moth died on my front bar, rained twice (i don't have a car port) When i wash this week (NXT wash) can i just wash, dry and apply another layer of Tech Wax 2.0? Or do i have to paint clean, polish etc. ? When i get my R34, i want to upgrade to the better products, Menzerna, Zaino, Dodo, P21, etc. What is the best combiination for these kinda products, and are the steps different to what i'm currently doing? Also i'm currently using the 2 bucket wash method but i want to get my hands on some grit guards but not sure where i can get my hands of some? Currently this is how i understand it (please correct if erroneous) 1. Wash 2. Clay 3. Wash 4. Cut and Polish ( can this be done without a RO? ie. by hand?) 5. Wash 6. Sealant 7. Wash 6. Wax I was suprised that some of the better products eg. P21, OCW wax, Menzerma and even Zaino didn't really cost alot more than autoglm or meguiars so pretty keen to get onto these better brands. What brands are best within a budget, i want to spend around 300-400 total for some higher end not-off-the-shelf kit so any suggestions are welcomed Cheers, Danny

Nobody is selling an auto R34 for under 14K let alone 11-12K atm, unless its got over 120kms on it, everybody who's selling wants around 14-16K which they will never get for it. It is quite difficult to find one for a price you could sell it for the next day. The demand for autos is alot less than manuals unless the price is ridiculously priced. Each to their own its just an opinion.

You're spot on there about the lower price increasing the demand, but just to see how elastic the demand is and how price plays such a large factor, it will be incredibly hard to sell a usual R34 auto for anything more than $13-14,000. Manuals will always easier to sell for a higher price than autos, they always have and i think they always will.

Haha i speak from absolutely no experience, but i currently drive a 92' Mazda 626 and i've never not enjoyed the performance from it, i was lucky enough to sit in a 2-door GT-V and i was blown away just by the note of the exhaust, so i don't really have a bug for performance, so i'll have to disagree with you till proven otherwise haha, perhaps if i sat in a turbo maybe ill be converted but yeh, lets see.

Haha i can see where you're coming from, i reckon i could hold on to mine for up to 5 years, i'm not so much interested in a GT-t unless i'd be taking it for a track day or something, if i were to be upgrading, it'd be a much better car like a GTR or a R8 clubsport. I simply love the tough shape of the R34's not to fussed performance wise.

If you still have your stock rims, sell your TE37's separately, as it will barely boost the price of your car, for that matter replace as much stock kit as you have and sell the aftermarket kit separately

When choosing an N/A (or any import in my oppinion) its all about the aesthetics, Supras have a curvy, fat, sexy (to some, not me) look going for them, R34's have a more rigid, boxy and much more meaner look. I think its down to the kind of person you are and the kind of person you want to be seen as. I'm looking to buy a N/A R34 because i love that tough look about it, and aswell the Skyline/GTR family will always be king (IMO)

Thanks mate, i also to a small extent noticed that (not with a concrete knowledge) but yes i did recognise on all the altia kits i have seen in real life. I did manage to get a good idea between a altia kit and a fibreglass uras kit at Top Secret Imports, the plastic was a little more rigid and much thicker than the uras one. Also, referring to the "skyline" part in the middle, is that like a different plastic to the rest of the front bar? Like a raw-unpainted plastic center piece? Cheers again guys, Danny

Cool cool, i'm looking to import one from japan through Top Secret in Blacktown, they're good guys there. The owners Jack and Gary are brothers, the cars in their warehouse are nice, but not what im after. Also they dont charge a service fee for importing a car through them which is good, they also have a full money back guarantee if the car's not up to scratch when it arrives at their warehouse. So the risk is minimal and the service is so far so good. I might put up a thread on how everything goes with them.

There is some truth to that statement, but just see how the autos fare on the for sale section is quite poor, you'd know this already but when you get your greens, you can drive any. The last NA R34 auto went for $11k when his original list price was $16500 which is some indication of the demand for autos. Each to their own however, i dont discount your opinion, i simply have a different view. Cheers for the input, Danny

Thanks for the replies, i also was under the impression that the ones in Japan mostly have genuine Altia's but had no one to confirm, thanks a heap. habib spec ftw, Danny

Hahaha, by far the best method. One thing as well, is it true you're able to tell if you're factory aero is from the factory by getting your VIN "fasted"? I'm planning to import from Japan and i want to be sure i'm not buying a car with a copy fiberglass kit. Cheers, Danny

Thanks for the PM's and replies guys, i'm just a little wary with 100,000km+ cars as they are very hard to sell as is, i'm planning to try find one under 70-80,XXX ks as i will be using it quite a bit so ones with already high mileage are a little out of the equation for me. I'm in no way judging anybody's car, its juts a preference. Auto's are also very hard to sell unless they have unique aesthetic options (bayside blue, factory aero) etc.. So thanks for the interest, but my search continues.. Danny

Ah ic, thanks for that, so the fiberglass will be more flimsy right? and when you mean the smoothness of the paint can you tell my running your fingers over it? Cheers again, Danny