JGTC

I had this recently on my R34, after upgrading the fuel pump and the grounding relay, as well as modified the stock FPR, car would have to sit for atleast 20-30mins after stopping before it would kick over turned out to be the original fuel pump module. Once the tuner bypassed it, it seemed to resolve the issue.

Kudos has stock and are clearing them at good rates from what i can see? https://www.facebook.com/Kudos.Motorsports/posts/10156659882236265 Kudos Motorsports January 11 · -=Borg Warner EFR Turbocharger Clearance=- We're over stocked on Borg Warner EFR 9180 & 8374 turbochargers, we have both internally & externally gates units on-shelf @ prices that will not be repeated. 179357 - EFR 8374-C (0.92 A/R, T4 Split, Internally Gated) - $3,190.00 179393 - EFR 8374-D (1.05 A/R, T4 Split, Externally Gated) - $3,030.50 12809880000 - EFR 9180-C (0.92 A/R, T4 Split, Internally Gated) - $3,300.00 179394 - EFR 9180-D (1.05 A/R, T4 Split, Externally Gated) - $3,030.50 We have limited stock and there will be no holds.

I think closed deck B58 in the M140i is the way to go of the Euros, but still a lot of forced induction and lack of affordable aftermarket that the86 and MX-5 have due to the improved production race series.

Totally with you, 90s and 00s Japanese cars are not the performance bargains they were 10yrs ago. Since then, they have gained cult-status, changed too many hands and been neglected too far to be turn-key drive-hard cars. What you lose in 'presence' and street-cred you gain in trouble free, under-warranty hard-driven ks. I owned a AE86 for about 18mths and loved the simplicity and driving thrills under 100kph so outright power is a non-issue for me, but it was so worn out and plagued with issues by the time i got hold of it, it sent me broke and even when it was running, there would be a growing list of items needing attention in the short and long term future of owning the car. At this point of my life, I feel like it's worth spending the extra on a brand new car, enjoying alot of the trouble-free k's and then as it hits that 80-120,000k mark you start forking out to keep it going if you really like it. Rather than saving a few buck buying a flogged car already at that mileage and spend the majority of your ownership fixing or putting money way to fix inevitable problems.

Very happy for you Mark, i have been living vicariously through your 86 journey as I am trying to edge myself to sell the GTR and simplify to a 1-wheel drive, 1 diff, no turbos and more time in the rev-zone type of car.

You must be so proud, that is an awesome result as a parent I would imagine.

Thanks mate, have always wondered what and where to source rear rotors for N/A 34's, mum's car is due up soon and good to have the info on hand. Cheers.

Welcome mate, very nice garage and in the right colours!

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l468560753 Sold recently for around $35 aud which would be closer to $80 shipped. just keep an eye on yahoo auctions i usually use the key term BNR32, BCNR33 or BNR34 as you will get all sorts of goodies related to those chassis numbers pop up.

Good info, thanks for posting, we rarely get a chance to look at back to back data.

Mark @ MRC Dyno and Performance in Castle Hill have inspected 5 cars for me in the past, very thorough, and has found issues that other reputable mechanics had missed. When requesting an inspection, ask for a hoist check-over, compression test and a health check power run on the dyno (to see for leaks, air flow consistency, ignition breakdown and issues at full throttle, the total cost is about $200 which is extremely comprehensive. If it helps breaks the ice tell him Daniel with the Black R34 GTR forwarded his details to you.

Bowdens have a nice range of low-cure time sprays available which make application and buffing very easy, my pref is boss gloss as i can use it on my drying towel while i drying the car without having to buff off any residue all the other solutions require a buff-off stage after applying. glazes(afterglow) detailers/1-step drying aids (boss gloss) waxes (lazy wax) sealants (fully slick)

From memory it their rate was $110/hr, i supplied most of my own fluids so i think all up it was approx 6-7hrs labour. Belts and water pump were done a few mths prior.

What part of Sydney are you in? Just had the same done for my R34 by Mark at MRC Performance & Dyno in Castle Hill, very knowledgeable with all things RB, also the best troubleshooter i've been to, he's solved many issues other repuatable workshops either caused or hadn't picked up on. They offer a really good health-check / inspection which includes a quick run on the dyno to make sure all is in order also, mention this as it's really worth the $120 odd dollars so you know what you're up against for future mods etc. If it helps break the ice, mention Daniel with the black R34 GTR suggested you call. https://www.facebook.com/MRCDynoServices

Wrapping the headlights is a genius idea, spotless carpet and factory looking radio are fantastic.

Fantastic to hear, glad to hear it is on the road being driven.

Awesome, good to hear Mark, i totally agree with you on that simple layout is best as i get older, more fun at less speed with less to go wrong.

I got my twins rebuilt and balanced at Precision Turbochargers in Wetherill Park, NSW - https://precisionturbos.com.au/. Replacing 1 faulty turbo and replacing it with another 'similar' turbo would cause headaches down the track. 1. GT-SS and 2859-9s are slightly different in spec and will blow differently. 2. You leave yourself open with the other GT-SS being prone to failure, thus setting you up for another remove and replace bill which is the costly part of a low-mount twin configuration 3. for the price of 1 new, you could refurbish both GT-SS', which i still think is the most reliable and cost effective option. While you're replacing you could opt to replace the water & oil lines with a supertec braided kit over the hardlines which are prone to threading upon removal - https://www.facebook.com/supertecracing/posts/1753715698048181

Keen to hear your thoughts on the 86, coming from the STI, by the looks you got the limited ed. ver with the brembos, sachs and updated diff? Really liking these at the moment, just finding it hard to find $30K from the back of the sofa.

Was in the same circumstance last year. I decided to remove ($750), refurbish ($1500) and refit ($750) my twins. To build a single set up (turbo, manifold, wastegate, fabricated IC piping, dump-pipe, exhaust, tune) you'd be lucky to have change from $15,000. There are obvious benefits, but it is an exercise on the wallet. If you are looking to stay with your current set-up, rebuild the turbos rather than simply replace them with a second hand kit, this is a much surer way to ensure they won't fail again. Used turbos hate coming off a car and sitting on a shelf, no matter the mileage.

Not saying they are gospel by any means, but the motiveDVD GT-R just went through this exact query. They decided to keep to the stock rev limit to preserve of the stock head, stock girdle plate and stock crank. Pt.2 of 2

Wouldn't it still be cheaper to re-build the -5 turbos and fit all the parts you have up? Unless you are buying a second hand single kit with turbo, manifold, fabricated dump pipe, the process will set you back anywhere from $10-15K in parts + labour, where as rebuilding the -5s will set you back $1500 and fitting everything you have up will probably cost $2-3K depending where you go.

huge result, should be completely different weapon now.

I believe the 2 ash trays you ordered were; - dark brushed look silver is from a Series II R34 GTR - 00(MY01)-02 - the black ashtray is from a Series I R34 GT-t The astray you need is the Series I 99-00(MY00) astray which is a light gold color

you can fit 265 up to 295 on 10.5 rims, depending on your ride height and camber, i believe with 285 and 295 width will scrub a little bit at full steering lock at the front, you may also need to play with camber and roll the guards and at the rear if you are running a lowered ride height. I have 265/35/18s on 18x10.5+15 and i was conscious that they were a bit stretched, but my wheel alignment guy was happy with how they sit on the rim. To me, 275 would be a perfect fit with no scrubbing on the front. You can check out the R34s here to get an idea of various tyre sizes on 18inch wheels, plenty of variety. http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_model_home.php?model=BNR34