JGTC

Forgot to mention power was made at 20psi

The main options out there for the Getrag 6pd transmission fluid; - Castrol Transmax Z - Royal Purple MTF Syncromax - this is used by Award Diff & Gearboxes Some good reading for the Getrag 6spd http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/63240-the-answer-for-transmission-fluid-in-the-getrag-6-speed/ http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?764074-The-Great-V160-Fluid-Challenge....&p=10021338#post10021338 General fluid guide for R34 GT-R http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/10/r34-gtr-v-spec-oils-where-to-being-part.html Oil analysis study on different oils on the Getrag 6pd https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B95WfozUALCkeGpOWm03cVgxOVU/edit

Model/Make: 2002 R34 GT-R M-Spec Mileage: 110,000 kms Output: 320rwkw / 430rwhp Head / Turbo - Garrett 2860-9s - fitted with HKS oil feed restrictor banjo bolts - Garrett 1bar actuators - Tomei dump pipes - Standard cast manifold - Port matched to turbos - Tomei Poncam Type A - lifter shim clearance within OE spec - Jun adjustable cam gears (OR gears modified to be adjustable) - set to 0deg/0deg ECU/AFMs - Apexi Power FC - Nismo AFMs Cooling - Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm intercooler - Koyorad 48mm aluminium radiator - Trust 13 row oil cooler with filer relocation kit Exhaust / Intake - Amuse R1 Titan Extra cat-back exhaust 90mm - Apexi Super Catalyzer Cat - 80mm - Mines Pro front pipe (2 x 70mm into 80mm) - Nismo inlet piping - OE Airbox with Nismo panel filter and snorkel Ignition / Fuel - Sard 650cc top-feed Injectors - Splitfire coilpacks - Wiring specialties coilpack harness - Nismo 255L fuel pump - Denso iridium spark plugs

hi mate, the known insurers i know off are just cars, nrma (and nrma vintage) and famous insurance, if you don't daily drive it and have a lock up garage or gated carport (10 trips/month) nrma vintage could be a good option as many people have had good prices. not 100% if they cover all skylines but the GTR guys seem to all have had luck. http://www.nrma.com.au/car-insurance/veteran-vintage-classic

Few places with good feedback; Mobile service https://www.facebook.com/thedenthero/ Brookvale https://www.facebook.com/DentFreeNSW/

I would imagine the manifolds are simple enough once the turbos have made their way out, good time to port match the outlets to suit your turbos also. Go with the Tomei, they are proven performers, there were some issues with previous gen HKS cam gears, with weakness in both the gear teeth and the tri-spoke design. The Deatschwerks are good units, lots of good feedback in the US, save the 150 for elsewhere. Always go with the better tuner over hardware, Nistune is a fantastic option which many workshops in Aus use this ECU, you will save about $1500 on the unit cost alone, which you can utlise elsewhere. There is some difference under the 4-500hp mark, but not enough to warrant the cost if on a budget.

Another good thread for people building a car with twins http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/?page=1

Tomei as a brand make some good parts ie. oil pump, camshafts, cam gears. But their manifolds (being made of stainless steel instead of cast iron) are prone to weakness, and their turbos (oil cooled only, instead of water and oil) leave room for much better improvements. Some input as i am going through a very similar process at present. Power Garrett -9 are a well documented strong performer for a street car, combining them with; Engine - port-matched manifolds - aftermarket turbo elbows (tomei or reimax are perfect) - cam gears, will be the source of the power increase in your build. - OPTIONAL - bigger airflow meters (Nismo) or deleted AFMs if Exhaust - enlarged front pipe (aka dump pipe) - enlarged exhaust 3' or 3.5' Fuel - larger injectors, stock are approx 444cc, anything from 500-650 will match this sort of power level - fuel pump (stock GT-R is 197lph, upgraded nismo 255lph is good, Walbro 255 also a good cost effective option) Optional extras for smaller gains are; mid-size intercooler and entry level camshafts, however, they can delay response for the sake of peak power (especially if a big 100mm intercooler and big lift camshafts are used) All of these are able to be done with the engine in the car, minimising on labour cost. ECU - If you have a stock ECU, work with your tuner to select an ECU and boost controller that they are familiar with to achieve the best result - common aftermarket units include Apexi Power FC (budget) and Haltech Platinum Pro as the premium option (better fail safes, and much more tune-ability.) Reliability; If the motor is coming out of the car to be built, you have a few options in terms of amending a few of the factory flaws, as well as strengthening the internal components. As a guide; Head - head refresh (mild port) - enlarged drain return from the head to the sump Block - new bearings - oil pump (few choices here, either forged gears in the OEM pump, or a aftermarket pump ie. Tomei, note if you are going with an larger pump like the Tomei, you will want an enlarged sump to accommodate for the additional flow) - sump baffle There is the option to go further with forged crank, piston, rods, rings and enlarged sump, however this does almost double the cost, for minimal benefit unless there is heavy track work and future plans for more power. A good guide for a reliability build; https://www.facebook.com/Tarmac-Solutions-Pty-Ltd-189006661230825/photos/?tab=album&album_id=418233531641469 Some good starting points for reading; http://www.gtrusablog.com/2010/05/real-basics-nissan-skyline-gt-r-r32-r33.html http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429930-1994-r32-gtr-stock-to-~320kw/?page=1 Diffs; I would probably leave this until you've been able to drive the car for a while, the R32 has mechanical diffs which are decent already compared to the R33 & R34 Money is better spent on Suspension first, then brakes or diffs pending budget in my opinion. All the best with the build., there is a lot of info out there, however it isn't all in one place which makes it a bit difficult to sift through.

The below 3 shops have all built numerous GT-Rs, options around Casula are; JEM - Ingleburn 2/2 Noonan Rd Ingleburn, NSW (02) 9618 6001 https://www.facebook.com/JustEngineManagement/ Powertune - Fairfield Address 8/88 Seville Street Fairfield East NSW 2165 Phone (02) 9724 0606 Fax (02) 9383 8632 Email [email protected] https://www.facebook.com/powertune.australia/?fref=ts F&E Autoworks - Smithfield Unit 5/369 Victoria Street Smithfield, NSW (02) 8798 6868 https://www.facebook.com/feautoworks/?fref=ts

Fair call, i did figure for the extra $50/spring it was worth to have as an option. Below is Josh @ MCAs feedback for my set. 2. Yes I think the extra springs is a very good idea because these springs would be a bit lacking on a circuit when pushing hard. What tyres would you run on a circuit? My normal circuit setup would be 15kg front and 11kg rear. So we'd be going with with a Red Series setup, valving wise I'm thinking a near circuit setup on the front to help with the support of the car, but a bit softer in the rear to help with the ride quality and bump handling. Spring rates of 12kg front and 5kg rear, along with another pair of 14kg front and 10kg rear assuming you wont be on a tyre like Hankook Z221 or Advan A050 for the track.. if you are, we could go 15/11. These haven't been installed on the car yet, so i don't have any real feedback to offer, that being said MCA did model specific testing with a R34 GTR (running stock sway bars/bushes) to develop their valving codes and spring rates for that chassis. That being said for reading i believe there are 2 trains of thought when it comes to spring rates/valving; one being the valving controls the body roll, and other using the springs to control body roll.

Incase you didn't get to see my edit, Regarding the harsh ride, MCA are happy to exchange a set of springs with your set up free of charge within the first few weeks of install, ask their advice direct as to what would be a step down to increase comfort? You could also opt to buy a second set and keep your originals for the track and swap between them as you need. What i did was buy 2 sets of springs, the ones on the coilovers are set-up for street/tarmac driving, and a second set of stiffer springs to suit circuit events should i choose to do them.

I recently bought a set of Reds off MCA direct about 1-2 weeks ago (beginning of July), Josh at MCA he advised me they had a batch of shocks which had developed a slow leak over time; also just a heads up.. we've had a couple of small gas leaks from some shocks made around the time yours were.. It was pretty rare, and I think yours will be ok.. but just letting you know incase you do hear some loud-ish knocks over large bumps/potholes, just let me know and I'll send a replacement for which ever it is straight away. Also as the Reds are dyno tested and individually checked, I asked if that process would catch these leaking shocks. slow gas leaks not really i'm talking a drop of a few PSI per day type of thing, and they get gassed with 270ps Regarding the harsh ride, MCA are happy to exchange a set of springs with your set up free of charge within the first few weeks of install, ask their advice direct as to what would be a step down to increase comfort? You could also opt to buy a second set and keep your originals for the track and swap between them as you need. What i did was buy 2 sets of springs, the ones on the coilovers are set-up for street/tarmac driving, and a second set of stiffer springs to suit circuit events should i choose to do them.

Yeah there's definitely many different trains of thought on the subject, that's for sure. The fact you've had the bilsteins for 10yrs speaks volumes about them for sure. I actually had a second hand set of Sydneykid's bilsteins w/ whiteline springs on my R34 GT non-turbo, the ride was equivalent to stock, very compliant.

Thanks Duncan, yeah even 14/10 seems high for the track, but i think they are catered to MCAs valving. Out of curiousity, what sort of coilovers were you running in your R32? Funny enough i was trawling through your thread yesterday to try and find them haha.

I also contacted Heasmans for their input on a set-up, they offer a re-valving service for their PSS9 coilovers to suit a specific solution ie. Track or Targa, this will cost around $900 on top of the cost of the standard units $2200. Above this they also offer a Clubsport series which are built from the ground up to suit your application of Motorsport (used in WTAC, allbeit similar specification will come closer to $10K), pricing wise for a 2-way adjustable (pss9s are 1-way) witth remote canisters were around $5200, which seem to be a nice alternative to the MCA Gold series pricing wise for custom built coilovers.

I pulled the trigger on the MCA Reds, In the end Josh had the best feedback and understanding of my application, also the fact they had done specific R&D on R34 GT-Rs. Below was the feedback regarding the final spec for the coilovers. 1. As the car is a weekend driver, what do you think is best for a performance orientated tarmac/targa configuration that will improve on the X-Rs? Josh: Yep I can do a better setup for you with Reds than X-Rs. 2. Would there be value at all in also purchasing an extra set of springs for if/when i decide to take the car to a circuit? ie. Eastern creek/wakefield, allowing me to swap over and dial in for track? Josh: Yes I think the extra springs is a very good idea because these springs would be a bit lacking on a circuit when pushing hard. What tyres would you run on a circuit? My normal circuit setup would be 15kg front and 11kg rear. 3. I also forgot to add to the below, I want to retain the standard ride height of the stock suspension, is this possible and will it affect the valving at all? Josh: Standard height will be higher than our suggested height, but probably not by too much.. but there is plenty of adjustment so just see how that goes for you. Final spec: So we'd be going with with a Red Series setup, valving wise I'm thinking a near circuit setup on the front to help with the support of the car, but a bit softer in the rear to help with the ride quality and bump handling. Spring rates of 12kg front and 5kg rear, along with another pair of 14kg front and 10kg rear assuming you wont be on a tyre like Hankook Z221 or Advan A050 for the track.. if you are, we could go 15/11.

Cheers mate, yeah that is true, it would be interesting to see how the motor is wearing esp the bearings, which without removing the motor is hard to gauge.

Hi team, has any one used a used oil anaysis service NSW? Looking to get a baseline for metal wear/bearing health before i take on some bolt on mods (turbos, cams, bigger boost). Motor is staying in the car so i want to do my best to make sure shes good to take on the extra grunt. Will also be doing compression test and other visual inspections. Cheers

would a 6062 be any less reliable/responsive at 20psi on a than your -9 or -5 twins on stock internals?

On the topic of singles, is there still much value running them between 18-20psi on stock internals? Over say a -9 set up? when it comes to street-ability and power?

Thanks for posting, hope you got a taker, i wasn't aware of the ARDC membership, that is a great deal, will sign up once my car is ready to go.

Another Aus company i was looking at was Shockworks, which feature progressive valving (with chassis specific valve-coding) and custom spring rates. the housings are manufactured to spec from Korea, they also offer free spring exchange within the first few weeks, and re-valving/servicing is only $80/strut/. The only R-chassis feedback i read was Pete(Fatz) was able to gain 2 secs changing from shockworks to Racepace re-valved Teins. Some reference threads for anyone interested; Specific development thread for Liberties http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=26090 Brett from Shockworks also consulted to FPV to develop their shocks http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11388486 BMW 1 series owners comparing Shockworks and MCA http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1227865

Yeah big reason i'm leaning towards MCA is the potential to get the valving right (i really know not much about good/poor damping/valving). What were your running on your 33? (EDIT: sorry just saw you were running BCs on the 33 also), I think potentially i could also go the X-R purples and spend the money on a intercooler/radiator (-9 setup).

Awesome response Roy! Thanks for taking the time to write it all up. I think with the Racepace Teins, the value is definitely in the valving, allowing the shock to travel more consistently with the car would definitely inspire confidence. In my emails to MCA, i've asked for his opinion on valving and spring rates based on on a tarmac/targa driving with balance for street driving. I feel that catering to the uneven/bumpy roads that targa/tarmac presents would lead to more compliant damping/valving with tolerable spring rates for the street. Tyre wise i see myself always sticking with street rubber (currently on AD08s, and future will be Hankook RS3s)