JGTC

Thanks guys, based on the feedback, I'm currently exchanging emails with Josh @ MCA, to try and narrow down an ideal valving/spring values to suit Tarmac/Targa conditions, rather than Circuit, I think the extra suppleness to deal with uneven/changing conditons will suit my driving which is primarily nat. park/old highways, with the chance of doing hill climbs etc. Keen to hear from anyone had their gear set up for these sort of conditions.

Hi guys, was wanting to pick your brains on suspension choices to suit bumpy mountain roads, i thought you targa guys would have some feedback on what works. I'm considering MCA (Reds, maybe Golds), DMS (Street series or maybe the 50mm version) and Bilstein PSS9s, a lot of good feedback on the MCAs, as well as the custom valving/spring rates which can cater to the sort of driving i like (street/mountain roads over track) Any feedback, experiences and budgets as my budget is between $2-4K for something that improve suppleness/road contact for bumpy roads, but also provides sharpness for turn-in feel.

In my research regarding DMS as a choice, the motorsport circles i have asked the same question to unanimously agreed MCA was a far better option not only quality wise, but also service/support wise. as the DMS are made-to-order completely in-house, parts and servicing are not cheap from a private consumer point of view. the below post is from one of the Evo guys who had used all 3

I received the below feedback from Josh @ MCA when i asked the same topic question; My application realistically will be for street/hills/mountain roads instead of the track, where the surface will be bumpy and uneven in sections, quite different to track conditions, i have revised my application back to Josh and see what he recommends.

Thanks mate, yes they aren't bad option also.

Looking to upgrade from stock suspension, car is a 300kw street car and duty will be 70/30 street/track. DMS, MCA and Bilstein all have local aus. support for parts/rebuilds, the bilsteins PSS9 have the most feedback and well known. The MCAs and DMS are big names in motorsport, however these consumer 'street/track' models are relatively less known and tested. The DMS Streets $2600 are probably the best specification wise with 2-way adjustable bump and rebound. They are also made in-house in aus, this probably means they will be more expensive to service. The MCA Reds - $2700 have custom valving and spring rates to suit your application. And have very good local service. Imported housings and springs make them cheaper to own. Bilstein PSS9s - $2200 are 1-way adj. and are the most known and tested, and as heasmans can source, install and dial in/cornerweigh. Keen to hear feedback from anyone who had a similar budget and application, im leaning towards the DMS gear but am wary of their service/rebuild costs.

Taken from the FB ad, most likely sold now though. R32 gtr vspec 1993 $28,000 Peakhurst, New South Wales, Australia Up for sale is my 93 r32 gtr vspec.has 107000 kms. We are first owners of thecar in australia we have had the car for only a few months. This gtr is still very clean for a genuine and standard car. Only mods are a nismo cat back exhaust and 76mm greddy intercooler still runs standard 8psi boost.

Can the tomei baffle with slightly modified sump (bigger returns etc.) Really alleviate oil control/blowby issues rather than going an extended sump (6.5l - 9l)? Car is predominately streed based but want it to be track capable without too much worry.

So the revised plan is looking like; Motor - Ext. Sump + all oil control accessories - Nitto Oil Pump - Headgasket + head studs - Waterpump, Belts, Lines, Hoses, Bearings, Gaskets - inspect bearings/rods/pistons and leave in if OK - Oil cooler - Nismo engine mounts Transmission/Diffs - Refurb gearbox @ Award - replace front diff with mechanical (Quaife from Just Jap or other?) - Normal service for rear diff. - Nismo gearbox mount Again, any advice from you RB veterans will be welcome, cheers.

Yeah fair call, instead of forging the internals, the money seems better spent on the front diff. I still think there is value in pulling out the motor for a once-over for gaskets, seals and lines, as well as the oil control. Regarding the front diff, what are the value-options out there, Kaaz, Quaife? http://justjap.com/quaife-atb-helical-lsd-front-differential-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gt-r.html http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343375-anyone-using-a-quaife-diff/ From what i've gathered, the M-spec share the same platform as the V-spec 2 (larger 322mm rear rotors), but has; - Ripple-control dampers - slightly quicker damping for more neutral handling (over the V-spec 1 & 2s bias for oversteer) - Thicker rear stabilizer bar - combined with the shocks to balance the handling - Heated leather seats - Slightly different leather for the steering wheel - 40kgs more than the base BNR34 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76852-various-r34-gtr-qs-m-spec-vs-v-spec-etc/

Thanks Pete, yeh i think i'll try track down a Greddy unit. Good advice on the diffs, i will just continue using/servicing them as normal until they give out and then replace with mechanical units

Thanks mate, the HKS 2.8l step zero kit seems pretty sweet, it would add at least $3K in addition to forging the block though. http://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-capacity-upgrade-kit-rb26dett-2-8l-step-zero-87-0-full-kit.html Thanks, i've read bits of fatz thread, but will sit down and digest both these threads re: power goals I'm looking to just make the most of the -9s as it will be predominantly street driven, i don't see myself moving up them them. It'd would be great to go down the flex-fuel path, but i see that as another investment for another time as i'll need ECU, injectors, fuel rail/pumps, sensors etc. also yes car came with Power FC and the apexi boost control module re: oil control and tuner Yeah thanks i have bookmarked your page on the collars and restrictiors, I think for the cost of the golebys oil cooler, its worth doing. I've decided to go the Nitto oil pump instead of the N1 + Hi-Octane billet gears, car currently runs standard Redline 10w-40 (non-racing version) It was MRC's preference to drop the front drive shaft, their feedback was as the front drive isn't full-time like Evos and WRXs, running it in 4WD can cause the front diff to burn out.

It's a fair bit of coin yeah, but whay makes you say it's a waste? I don't really plan on going bigger turbo-wise and i'd like to lean on the car for the odd track session/hill climb. Although not cheap, it does seem cost effective to have it all done at the one time i would have thought.

Yeah fair call man, my concern i suppose is the risk associated with leaving the whole thing in there while just replacing the turbos and wicking it up to 20psi, my fear is it will cost more when she decides to give out under load.

Hi Gents, I've sold my daily to free up some money to pull the motor out of my R34 to give it a once over. I am just looking to get another set of eyes on the build to make sure i have all the bases covered. My intention to be able to use the car on track days, as well as to maximise on labour while the motor is out. I've highlighted my 3 concerns in RED, also interested as to anything else that is worth doing while the car's guts are out Car is a '02 R34 GTR M-spec Current set-up Compression was 175 +/- 2 across all 6 Mileage: 105,000kms Currently tuned to 267.9rwkw @ 16psi (front driveshaft removed to preserve the front diff) by MRC in Castle Hill. Exhaust / Intake - Amuse R1 Titan Extra cat-back exhaust 90mm - Apexi Super Catalyzer Cat - Mines Pro front pipe (2 x 70mm into 80mm) - Tomei dump pipes - Nismo inlet piping - OEM Airbox with Nismo Snorkel Ignition / Fuel - Sard 650cc top-feed Injectors - Splitfire coilpacks - Wiring specialties coilpack harness - Nismo 255L fuel pump Engine / Turbo - Garrett 14psi Actuators - Stock Turbos Proposed Worklist Engine Turbos - Garrett -9s (purchased 2nd hand) AFMs - Nismo AFMs Cams/Cam Gears - Standard camshafts - Jun Cam Gears (purchased 2nd hand) Engine & Gearbox mounts - Nismo mounts Oil Management - pretty much everything listed here, lol http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html - 9L Extended sump - Hi-Octane - Oil/Air Seperator - Hi-Octane - Rear cylinder head oil drain fitting - Hi-Octane - Cam Cover Baffle - Hi-Octane - Catch Can - Hi-Octane - N1 Oil pump + Billet Oil pump Gears - Hi-Octane (is this combo the most suitable form my application? The next one up would be the Nitto Oil Pump) Cooling - PWR Radiator - Is an oil cooler justified at this point? I was thinking about a setup from Golebys parts? - http://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/browse/171/nissan-rb20-25-26/oil-cooler-kits Block - is it worth forking out the extra to forge the thing at this point? This is the area i know the least about - Pistons - Rods - Rings - Bearings - Head Gasket Gearbox/Diffs - Overhaul Transmission and Rear Diff - incl. bearings, seals, gaskets, syncro rings (generally 1st 2nd and 3rd) - performed at Award Gearbox and Diff services in Seven Hills, NSW - http://awarddiffgearboxservices.com.au/ Misc. - Major service incl. N1 water pump - ancillary belts - New hoses/lines Some of the threads i have been through and referenced; http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364449-n1-oil-pump-into-rb26-to-prevent-big-bearing-problems/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429930-1994-r32-gtr-stock-to-320kw/page-2 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419857-shopping-list-for-500hp-rb26/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/page-3?&&p=4275763&hl=definitive%20guide&fromsearch=1#entry4275763 http://www.gtrusablog.com/2010/05/real-basics-nissan-skyline-gt-r-r32-r33.html http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html Some pics to entertain the non-readers

Under $20K the 'blob eye' STIs are believed to be the strongest as they have the last 2.0L motors (which have a forged bottom? can any one confirm?) Another great option is the Aus delivered Evo 8s which have the stronger 5sp box I find the STIs to be better kept condition-wise on an average, however you may get more bang for your buck bolt-on/E85 mod-wise

No doubt copper provide a stronger spark than iridium/platnium etc., Mark from MRC was comparing the like for like iridium option and why he prefers the Denso iridium over the higher priced platnum and NGK iridium How often are you guys changing out the copper plugs?

Call around a few import-friendly workshops to see if they have a diag. tool to measure the pulse going through the coilpacks I recently underwent an ignition update for my 34 which consisted of; Coil-packs - Splitfire DIS-005 - (can alternatively use Nissan OEM, the key factor here is to buy from a vendor that can offer a local warranty, or go through the workshop to order in, in-case you have a faulty coil) Kudos Motorsport have been good at honoring returns for faulty goods Coilpack Harness - Wiring specialties coil-pack harness ( can alternatively use the Nissan OEM, the Wiring specialties unit does offer proposed improvements, but both are suitable) - an old/aged harness can definitely contribute to sparking/ignition missfires http://www.performance-wise.com.au/wiring-specialties/coil-pack-harnesses/wiring-specialties-coil-pack-harness-loom---skyline-r34-gtr-rb26dett.html Sparkplugs - Denso Iridium sparkplugs (My tuner advised the Denso iridiums offer good reliable spark for stock - 350kw applications over the NGK alternative, something to do with the collar and contact being better designed)

You're on the money with Mobil 1, based on many UOAs (used oil analysis) in the US, this has proven to be a very, very competent street/track oil Although they have changed to a refined mineral base but extremely competent additive pack making the overall product possibly better than the previous Group 4 basestock version The RRP of $105 is a lot of money though, and i think there are better street oils out there like Redline, Amsoil and select Elf.

Agreed these are out and out performance oils, however they are designed to be run on track at high temps with high sheer stability (which is good), and then changed after each event - the result is the detergent package in these hi-performance 'track oriented' oils is usually poor and not ideal for day-in-day-out start/stop accustomed to a street car the 300V is now specifically a track-oriented oil, with very little detergency for 5,000km/6mth intervals the Penrite 10 tenths isn't far behind however they should have some street manners - my pick is still the HPR10, but the 10 tenths does have a Group IV PAO basestock, where the HPR10 uses a Group 3 refined mineral base

My picks to suit various budgets - it is more important to change every 5000kms / 6mths whichever comes first, more so than a more expensive oil over a longer interval. Under $30 - Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 10w 40 - solid performing semi-synthetic (refined mineral base) only published figure is the TBN of 9.02 (solid for 10,000km intervals) and good pour and flash points. Over $40 - from light to heavy 40w oils - Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, Nulon Fast Flow 10W40 and Penrite HPR10 (10w50 extra 10 which is just a strengthened 40 weight) - all use a Group 3 refined mineral base, however they improve on the Gulf Western oil by meeting the synthetic standard of ACEA A3/B3, as well as many euro extended-interval standards such as Mercedes 229, and BMW ll-04. Over $80 - my pick would be Redline's 10w 40 standard motor oil, which offers IMO the best combo of detergent for street, and high temp/sheer resistance for performance (HTHS of 4.4, compared to the Shell which has a rating of 3.68). All these oils have a good combo of cleaning detergents / high-temp/sheer performance - IMO the difference in competency isn't alot over a 5,000km/6mth interval of street/spirited driving. Factor in track time and extended change intervals, and the more you want to consider a higher priced oil like the Nulon, Penrite and Redline.

My slice of pizza

This one went up this morning - looks good with all the work done http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-2000/SSE-AD-3833270/?Cr=0 Also this one sold in a day in VIC

You must be spending too much time in Dan's thread, Are you considering any that are on the market currently?

I have and use; - Half Rack with spotter arms - one with a pull up bar integrated is ideal - Olympic barbell with 220kg weight - i went with olympic bumper plates to save the floor - 2nd hand set of fixed weight dumbells - 5-30kg - Flat bench & Adj, Incline bench This generally covers you for the big 3 movements as well as any free-weight accessory work you might want to fit it Things like kettlebells, floss bands and med balls can just just come as you need/want