Benzy

Still lots here guys

No sorry bud, already taken.

No sorry bud, both doors have been sold

Lol its not an RB30 dude...

Not locked bud. Just a standard one thats still tight.. Have shims here if you want to shim it up.

Hey Guys, Got pretty much a complete 33 wreck to part out. All interior is gone and only body parts left are the tail lights. I have everything else.. What I can think of off the top of my head: I have : Complete RB25DET- Turbo, Coilpacks loom, Computer,Dump pipe. $1800 - WILL NOT SEPERATE! I have Auto + Man ECU's Brakes and hubs (4pot front): $450, Newish pads & bearings F+R.. Driveshafts x2 : $90ea Auto Box: $22.50 + Freight VGC.. F+R Swaybars: $30ea LSD (tight) : $220 Rear Hicas Pump- 15,000km old : $90 Rear control arms : $30 Ea Rear Cradle in Perfect nick :$200 - (Bare) Fuel Tank VGC :$150 Stock Susp: $150 Taillights: $90ea ( Maroon ) F+R Reo bar: $100 ea I am Located in Rockhampton, QLD. I am more than happy to help buyers out with freight at their expense. Anything else you might need, Just ask and make an offer!! PM me here or catch me on: 0458299017 Cheers, Ben

Which engine is it for bud?? Its prob worth grabbin a Gates Racing one for about $100 and something bucks.. As for waterpump, If its an RB20 just grab an RB30 one...70-100 from your local Repco/Autobarn. Also if your belt hasnt been changed before, It may be worth changing the idlers/tensioner too, if you decide to change them you can get a Dayco Timing belt kit for sub 200bucks from your local BSC or a Gates one from CBC (unsure of price) . As for labour, I reckon a decent shop would charge $700+ inc parts for this sort of service. Or if your handy with the tools, 2-3 hours of a weekend is all it will cost you... Theres a good Tute on this site if you need help. Also if your getting adjustable gears, factor in the price of a tune too. I know alot of people just throw em in and hope for the best, But if your gonna do it, you might as well do it properly and make sure your making more power- not losing it!! Hope this helps, Ben

Loosen 1,3 &6 to remove the belts Then remove 5 & 4.Waterpump pulley( 5 ) is simple. You will need a steering wheel puller to get the harmonic balancer(4) off after loosening main bolt. Note: Before you pull the HB off make sure the engine is at TDC,( to make sure you dont stuff your timing when installing the new gears and Belt). Then undo timing cover. Wallah.

Here you go bud, if you mark on both where i have put the red marker, then it should line up no worries at all. just make sure you know where the key on the cam used to be and youll be right. Goodluck

Sorry to hijack your thread bud,but I too have this problem, its idling fine but blowing black fuel smoke, its running hell rich... Does any know if this is AFM related?

I can get you a pic tonight bud, But grab a torch and take a look at the end of the cam where the keyway used to be, It most probably wouldnt have snapped off clean, so you should be able to see the raised/rippled half moon shaped surface that it has snapped off. Once you work out which side of the circle the keyway was on, mark either side of the hole the CAS sits in, (so when you go yo put the CAS you can tell where it is meant to sit) Then grab the CAS and mark the side of it where the keyway is meant to sit. Line up the marks, then slide into place... Hope you can understand that, If not ill get pics tonight and demo it for you..

Problem SOLVED!!! MECHANIC DIDNT TIGHTEN THE HARMONIC BALANCER!!! After we pulled it off, fitted the new belt and refitted the balancer it tightened the whole way up to the timing pulley. Very relieved. no more overhang..Needless to say, the mechanic is going to be paying us for the replacement belt! Thanks heaps to everone who offered insight and advice both here and via PM. Couldnt ask for a better outcome Cheers, Ben

Hey, Could be a number of things... Start with the obvious though.. 1. Fuel?? a) Is there any there:-) b) Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on ignition? c) When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? 2.Check your fuses...

Yep. Car is never going back to that mechanic... Ok, harmonic balancer is now off, I have checked the engine manual, but cant see anything wrong, apart from the timing pulley doesnt meet the keyway on the shaft...if you get what i mean...The keyway ends then 2mm gap then timing pulley....Is it meant to meet it?? Yep,Have already orderd a new gates racing belt.

Does your exhaust cam still have the locating pin for the CAS on it still or has it been snapped off?? If it has been snapped off youll have to lign up the CAS visually where you can see the marks on the end of the cam...just a suggestion, seems to catch a few people out when they pull out the CAS..

Thanks for the responses guys, had a quick squiz this morning, and It looks like the crank TIMING PULLEY could be on too far ?? The gaurd that slips on behind the main pulley is extremley loose (1-2mm play) And just by looking at the belt, it appears to twist back slightly under the tensioner and idler.... But how could that timing pulley move back towards the block? As the mechanic wouldnt have had to touch it.. Only other thing it could be is the main pulley isnt on far enough..(as mentioned above, cheers) ill get a torque wrench and check it this arvo... Ill get a laser pulley aligner from work too and check they are all level.. But if the bottom timing pulley HAS moved, where do we go from there?? Anyone else ever had this problem?? Any insight is much appreciated, Thanks again, Ben

Hey Guys, A mate of mine just had his timing belt,w/pump, idlers etc on his R32 replaced by a local mechanic. Anyways two days later he noticed a rubbing noise coming out from under the timing cover. We pull it off, and where the belt runs on the cam pulleys, it is hanging over by about 3-4mm.... We assumed the tension was wrong ,so we reset the tension on the timing belt...but turned the engine over by hand a few times, and within about 5 turns the belt had already started working its way off the cam pulleys..finally it gets to where its about 4mm off then runs steady and doesnt go any further, but our concern is that it may start to wear the belt abnormally quick.. Is this the result of the belt not being tensioned correctly the first time and wearing the belt?? If so he should replace the belt?(car has done about 50kms since th eservice) Is it the tensioner hasnt been installed properly? Or is it something more sinister?? If anyone has experienced this before, or has some insight it would be much appreciated!! Thanks all, Ben

Hey you wouldnt have the powersteering pump bracket by anychance?? Sent you a PM awhile back...

Hey bud, Im chasing the power steering pump bracket....You wouldnt have one by any chance?

Hey Guys, Ok, so I have this 1992 r32 skyline that I am in the process of building. And In beside the power steering resevoir there is two wires that now go to nowhere...the idiot I bought the car off has cut these wires and extended them (well,taped speaker wire to the existing wires) and I have no idea why, or what he was trying to accomplish by cutting them... and I think I may have bumped them out when changing the timing belt, radiator and cooler piping.. If someone could have a look at their car to see if they can trace where they are meant to go, It would beMUCH appreciated, as I have spent hours going through the wiring diagrams in the cars manual and I'm buggered If I know where they are meant to go... Dont really wanna start the car if it is something critical.. Thanks in advance, Ben

Permatex do a special Headlight Restorer kit...It involves sanding the face of the headlight smooth with very fine grit sandpaper then using a special plastic polish/protector to buff it up with. Best part is you dont even have to pull the lights out. Did it on my missus' car, her lights were real bad and they came up perfect. Still are and I did them about 6months ago..

Hmm you sure?? Im 99% sure that they are totally different. You could modify them to fit, but without modifying I dont think they'll fit dude.