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Vishel

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Everything posted by Vishel

  1. Not as easy as you think. Most of the dash has to be taken apart to reach the back of head unit. I have removed the stock stereo many times and might be able to help you. What year is your car, coupe or sedan, auto or manual? Also, Nissan uses a two-pronged antennae plug so make sure you buy the appropriate band expander. This applies to the stock stereo thats built into the dash, not a standard DIN unit.
  2. SydneyKid, cheers for the help mate. Had some rings made up for my car, the wheel is now centered on the hub but still no luck. The vibration is still there. My next step is to change the worn tension rod bushings and get the rims checked and balanced again.
  3. Similar problem here. Get a vibration over 100km/h after fitting new rims and tyres (18x8's with 225/40's). Wheels have been balanced three times and alignment done twice, all good. Have been doing a bit of bit research on various forums but I have not found any definite answers. Like NZM.031 says there are many components making up the suspension. The original, worn-out suspension rubbers are probably having trouble coping with the bigger, often heavier, wheel. You will have to get under there and look for excessive play. I found that my tension rod bushings are leaking and I will change these out within the next two weeks. Vibration at speed is also a sign of worn shocks. The standard shocks are good for about 60000km. Again, the worn shocks could be having trouble controlling bigger, heavier wheels. I found someone with a similar problem on a 300zx forum. His solution related the centre hole diameter of the wheel. Basically, the weight of the vehicle should rest on the centre hole of the rim, not on the studs. Most aftermarket rims are made to suit a variety of cars and have quite large centre holes. This means that the weight of the car rests on the studs. Apparently this can cause balance problems. Switch back to the original wheels and see if this solves the problem. I have sold the original wheels so I can't test this theory. Start by eliminating the easy stuff. I've been slowly replacing worn components with new items but the vibration is still there. Eventually I will end up with a fully adjustable race suspension set-up but with my luck the shaking will still be there. Good luck.
  4. A 50mm drop will effect the camber; you will need adjustable camber arms to correct. I dont think it will hit the bump stops. Also, the standard shocks don't like being so low and will wear out quickly. Had the super lows on my car and it handled terribly, probably because the geometry was all off. Switched to lows and the ride is much better. I suggest that if you're going to use super lows you will need to invest in additional suspension bits to get the suspension geometry right. Also have 238/18's and there's heaps of space under the gaurds, no problems with rubbing.
  5. Tip: loosen the fill plug first. If you drain out all the oil and then realise the fill plug is stuck it creates a few problems.
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