fletch63

Come on guys All these views and no comments Is it really that stupid a question! )))))

Hi guys, Put this post up in general maintenance section and no replies as yet so I thought I'd ask some fellow sandgropers I have just upgraded from a 33 GTST to a GTR and need to know how to adjust the grab point of the clutch as it is almost at the top of the clutch pedal throw I did this on my GTST but this looks totally different Can someone help as I have never worked on a GTR before Cheers

I am in the process of doing exactly what happened to you You need to submit the application for mods straight away Wait 2 weeks and they will send you a form which lists the things they need from the engineer Submit engineers certificate and wait another 2 weeks and see how it goes Meanwhile your yellow will run out and you'll have to get an extension which means another pit inspection Feel free to call me I can give you a really good engineer and some tips as I have been through the reaming machine and now know the process Grant 0413775441

Hi all, Just bought an R33 GTR The clutch grabs way too high and so I want to adjust The guy I bought it off said new clutch fitted fairly recently so I hope it's not on the way out/he's telling porkys. I did this adjustment at the pedal on my 33 GTST no worries. But this looks totally different on the GTR Searched forum could not find anything that helps much Could anyone help....PLEASE!

thanks guys

Hi guys and gals, I just bought my first GTR !!!! Very excited as always wanted one. My question is (hope I don't sound too stupid) why do I have AFM if I have a power FC I thought the map was taken off the PFC and so no need for AFM Could anyone confirm/tell me I'm a @#$%^ idiot or otherwise.

Thanks guys for all your inputs I will try a new cat if it fails trouble is I have to wait 2-3 weeks to find out as they have put me to the bottom of the queue again Any more ideas would be welcome Does anyone think resetting ECU or removing pod filter (ie having no filter on just for the test) would help?

welshpooldont go there trust me

yes stock boostprobably too late to take it to a cert w'shop because they are on my case/arse now will try a new cat if it fails

I would only take the filter off for the test and then refit just after driving out Just thought it would lean out the AFR but not sure Maybe turn the CAS back to retard timing just for the test Does anybody know for sure??? What about fuel additives also???

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone can help me with advice Got yellowed Middle of the night on the FWY (doing 95kmh) for tint too dark (WTF!!) Now after 3 pit inspections and thousands of dollars later I have been asked for an emissions test which I did today My car has stock turbo and ECU and engine is stock. New exhaust from Kermit (pits didn't like my old one) The guy at the place I got emission test didn't know if it would pass or not but said it was too rich so possibly not. So, my question is...does anyone know how to help lean my 33 GTST out other than ECU replacement/upgrade and tune. As they didn't lift my bonnet I was thinking remove the pod filter. Would that help?? Also any fuel additive anyone could suggest. I am almost at the point of giving up and parting it out. No-one would believe my story so far with dealing with the pits. I can't believe it ...am totally over it Maybe time to surrender in this "war on imports" and go and buy a hyundai excel Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would probably neck myself after driving an Excel for a month.

Hi all, Would anyone know where I can get stock springs for my R33 Got yellowed and need to raise height back to stock

I really need a standard rb25 BOV if you could help me for pitsMy number is 0413775441 Cheers

I must have got the same guy at Welshpool. My car is too low. ie the exhaust sits below the 100mm height limit. Even the standard front pipe. Does anyone know if I get coilovers: 1. will I be able to raise it to a legal height? , and 2. will I need/be able to get a permit for them?

So if my timing is too advanced and I am at the end of adjustment I suppose the timing belt must be one tooth out I thought maybe the CAS could be put in at the wrong position I suppose it still could be if the lug you mention is broken But probably more likely the belt after recent change Probably leave it to the pros and not bother taking the CAS out to have a look What do you guys think

Can anyone help me out please I need to know if cam angle sensor in R33GTST is keyed (ie it only goes in one position) or is it like a gear that can be inserted in any position. Any help would be appreciated

Thanks mate That's what I"ll ask for

I will call Andrew @ Hyperdrive on Monday see if he do me a good price Thanks for your advice

no def pinging Sounds like rattling sounds like all cars sound pinging I used to just spin the dizzy but this is a bit more complicated It all seems great just really just want to know why the adjustment is so one ended Am I running too retarded say 10 BTDC and will this cause damage Would that be possible if it is going so good I have had it 4 years and def never gone so quick

Thanks Toshi I might go to Hyperdrive when I can afford it They are very good I will let u know how I go

Hi Toshi Yes I did read your messages By the way thanks for all your help I appreciate your patience as I am still learning about these cars I just can"t see the point of paying money for someone to set timing to 15 degrees for me And then tells me it pings and I need to buy more stuff I gradually retarded timing until no more Pinging Tested by HARD driving I have driven approx 200 kms now and under all conditions it is perfect Idles better than ever (about 850) At low speed in high gears has great torque when accelerating At high speed it is great No pinging to be heard under any load I've put it It flies! Is now like a new car to drive.......CAN NOT RECOMMEND THIS ECU UPGRADE MORE HIGHLY What damage could I be doing!

Hi mate, Sounds like you know your shit, I have copper BCPR6es gapped to 0.8 running about 11lbs boost Standard turbo FMIC big fuel pump 3" exhaust everything else standard ......oh pod and cold air ECU was pre-tuned for These mods Original ECU just started to ping at 11lbs so I just backed the boost off a little Hoped this ECU would fix it if I take it to dyne what would they do Set timing to 15 and it will probably ping Then how would they change AFR ? Isn't it in the ECU tune which is SET Will they then sell me a SAFC or equivalent..?? Any suggestions..

I just tried one of Toshis famous stage 1 ECU's and it is amazing the difference it makes I have a new car! Heaps smother power Hardly any lag Just blew away an EVO 9 on the way home from work, Best money I have ever spent on a car The only issue was when I first put the new ECU in it was pinging badly So I retarded timing with no timing light until ping dissappeared Goes great My question is without knowing timing (I think it's way retarded because the adjustment is way to one end Is this problem? I understand the symptoms of retarded timing to be lack of power I certainly don't have this If it was what problem could it cause Also if it is still not retarded enough and is still detonating and I can't hear it I know this is a problem I will try to get timing light soon I am a cheap arse and can't justify the funds for a dyne tune Any help to clarify things would be great Sorry I am new to the turbo tuning thing By the way thumbs up for Toshi

Thanks mate fixed all my problems By the way all joints looked Ok but obviously weren't

I will try it on the weekend Cheers I didn't think of that Have read it before as well!