Touge Kyousou

Yeah it's annoying. Some people just like n/a more damnit. You think that's bad..try owning a v35 skyline - the discrimination is worse lol (was my previous ride).

This will be the type of car i will be waiting out for mate... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...le-t311909.html It eventually sold for around 10k or so i think. I had my eye on this car for awhile but my car didn't sell in time. Just be a little patient and you will see awesome deals pop up here and there. Just gotta be patient buddy...i know how you feel as i bought one when i wanted one too but luckily i came across a good find after the linked one above sold.

Rebuild still going strong after 68xxxkms. Not being pushed hard though.

Definitely on rebuild plus some km's to know it will last like i posted before.. i think maybe more than 2000kms though Rolls ? In the SAU failed engines thread i think there are a few rebuilds in there that started failing at around the 6000kms mark or so.

To be honest, MOST r33's will come up pretty poor on a states road inspection because it's a sports car so an owner is likely to give it some instead of granpa'ing around. R33's also tend to be getting on in the years now, as a previous poster mentioend - 15 years. The states road inspections check almost everything right down to nitty gritty stuff like a small bushing that even alot of enthusiasts won't bother checking/replacing. So realistically, most 15 yo's cars aren't gonna check up well.. you are much better taking the car to a local import performance shop and get them to inspect for around $100 or so and they will know to check for the common problems of an r33 whilst also giving you a better idea of how that r33 stacks up against the general/average one.. not just objective data that a state roads report gives. Not saying the state roads reports are bad...but imho should only consider using them when buying newish/expensive-ish cars. I guess at the end of the day, you just gotta understand you're looking at a 15yo import performance car that was extremely popular with us Aussie petrolheads. I recently bought an r33 and i went in knowing what these cars are like so my requirements was mods done (get 'em for free that way), rebuilt preferably (seeing as most have wound back odo's and the hard life most of these cars go through) and enough km's on the rebuild to know the rebuild will last. I ended up getting an r33 with almost all mods i would want done, done. A rebuilt motor that had covered 66xxxkms, an ok exterior and good interior. Well looked after/maintained and puts out decent power. My trade offs to the above was exterior wasn't great but at least paint was good (some dings and dents here and there), a very small oil leak from an oil line that is easy to fix during major service, a very small leak from the radiator that's probably a cracked weld (it's an aftermarket alloy radiator), and an exhaust that was too loud (and upon closer inspection, some welds had broken). So a new alloy radiator is approx 350, i spent about 1k getting an exhaust that i've always wanted (so i didn't mind), and come major service i will get a new gasket put in to stop the extremely small oil leak coming from an oil line. Everyone tells me i got an awesome deal (previous owner spent over $20k on mods etc and he was a mechanic so he wouldn't have paid labour for much) yet if you take this car and do a stateroads inspection, it will likely not come up well due a leak, exhaust with holes, cracked weld in rad... but for a few measly dollars, the car will be in top nick. Goodluck with the hunt, hope i didn't put you off getting one lol because if you get a good one.. you will definitely enjoy it!

Had a v35 with brembos (almost identical to 34gtr brembos) and they were POS. Mates sti brembos crapped all over it then again his car was almost 200kg lighter and then the front calipers were considerably larger.

Yes, gotta get the timing right on the remote (in terms of holding the button down)

Hi OP, System got installed today so you may come hear it when you're ready. The difference is amazing like Terry said and it opens/closes very quickly (i was hoping it'd be quick). Sounds good too, it's no fujitsubo/kakimoto but my car has that nice RB rumble to it now which i didn't expect. Oh, i didn't end up getting a resonator installed but have kept the mid muffler (repositioned for max clearance) so even on full open, it's not too loud. It's Weird because at full open it's just a cannon like the old cannon but the sound is soo much better and not as loud - like as if the varex muffler is much higher quality than the regular xforce cannons you get on their catback systems.

Varex doesn't need a hole drilled - just feed a small power cable from the boot to where the varex unit sits. OP, I bought my car with a BLOODY LOUD exhaust (modified trust pe2), got so sick of it i went and bought an xforce 3.5" catback (large mid muffler, rear cannon) and it still got to me so i had the rear cannon removed and installed a same size piping varex. One of the best things i've ever done to a car. It actually gave the car that nice rb sound too, can't argue!

Get your solicitor to write a letter to them..hopefully get them moving. Like said, that's what my friend did and that letter made the council pay for the repair of the dented bonnet. Shouldn't be hard if you have family friends that are solicitors Goodluck.

I'm getting a varex oval muffler installed coming friday (not today) - so not turbo back but would probably give you an indication. System will be 3" custom dump/front, high flow cat, 3.5" xforce catback with hot dog and xforce oval varex (does have mid muffler and cannon atm but getting hot dog instead as the mid muffler hangs waaaayyy too low and the oval varex will replace the cannon). Pm me if you'd like to hear it friday night or weekend etc.

200rwkw is pretty much maxing out the factory turbo. Some cars get there some don't.. just depends on the condition of the car you buy in regards to engine/turbo and support components. From what i've seen, a full list of bolt ons will net you 200rwkw with standard turbo and anything more you need to upgrade turbo and make sure your engine is in good condition. By full list of bolt ons, i mean intake, turbo back exhaust and high flow cat, maybe a fuel reg or injectors, maybe a fuel pump, some kind of tunable ecu (nistune, pfc etc), larger cooler, coilpacks. Don't forget you're gonna need upgraded sussy and brakes to handle the power increase and lastly the tires too. I would prefer a car without the turbo timer (i just like things neat) but it may be good for you or not..depends how you drive and if you're fussed there is just one more defectable item on the car. Be safe and have fun with it!

250rwkw on low reading dyno, very responsive (full boost at 3600rpm, 3rd gear on road) Rebuilt engine (but using oem parts and 0.050 o/s bore pistons), 68xxxkms gt2871r (from what i've read, equivalent to a gt-rs) intake (boxed pod), tbe/cat, coilpacks, fmic, pfc+boost module, 32 afm, inj, exh cam gear, head ported/trimmed valve guides, valve springs, 044 pump, alloy rad, 1.25 bar setting

Hi mate did that swaybar set go this weekend? Cheers.

One of my old school friends had damage repaired on her car after a big stick fell on it denting the bonnet lol. Helps that there is a solicitor in her family though! So at least it's definitely possible. Just need to threaten them with something most likely lol.

Err.. forgot about the sussy. Bilstein shockies, hks springs. I gotta check if lowest point on car is above 100mm but pretty certain it is. Just rang one place, they want a $220 inspection fee which then provide a solid quote to go on as they've had too many people not fully disclose and the costs blow out.

Hey all, Looking into getting an engineering certificate for a line. Basically just after some info from people who've done it, tips, pricing etc. Feel free to PM me if you'd like. Who have you used ? Were they good/easy to deal with etc. The setup is r33 gtst gt2871r on stock manifold fmic (not return flow unfortunately) Pod injectors/fuel reg/fuel pump in tank coilpacks apexi pfc, hand controller, apexi boost controller kit turbo back exhaust, ceramic high flow cat r34 wheels with 235/45/17 dba4000 slotted f/r rotors, braided lines Things done/to be done before going for cert. Pod boxed hole cut for the fmic will be reinforced (looked this up in the self certifiable mods in the rta pdf) Weld on an exhaust silencer to bring noise levels down Remove pfc hand controller shave "nissan" logo off front calipers so the 34gtt wheels can go on without a 3mm spacer Thanks in advance Will doing the above likely let the car pass the cert ? Or will the injectors/turbo etc cause it to fail? Gonna ring a few places but doubt i'll get free advice.

So sorry for your loss =/. Seasoned thieves take all of 5 mins to bypass a typical 3 point immobiliser from what an ex-alarm installer told me. He also told me if you can make the scum work for more than 5 mins on your car, they'll likely stop and move on to another car due to risks etc.

How would that suck in hot air ? The pod will be enclosed/sealed from the rest of the engine bay and then there will be at least one preferably two large pipes ramming cold air from the front/underneath of the car into that box/enclosure. ?? Edit - Also if the air is slightly hotter but the resistance to flow is much less, you should still have on road gains being the engine will rev easier but now that's really cutting it thin lol.

Thanks R31Nismoid Would the fuel pump be ok too ? More good news, just gotta pay for tune then with no parts upgrade involved.

Rather than starting a new thread hoping some of you knowledgeable folks can provide input here. In terms of running the above mentioned car on e85, what flow upgrades are needed if needed ie. With regards to fueling, the car has tomei 550cc injectors, nismo fuel reg, bosch 044 pump mounted in tank, and is bored to near 2.6l capacity. Already have a tuner in mind so that's ok. Thanks all.

I've seen those articles too and i've also seen another where the HKS was rated very high (albeit poor filtration - you can see it too by holding the HKS element up against a light source). Shortly after seeing those flow test articles, i went out and bought a couple of 3a racing pods to try out against the then installed HKS mushroom (on an FTO). To be honest, i felt the fto was better (slightly) with the HKS mushroom. An inconsistency though was that the HKS had a larger mount whereas i had to use a reducer for the 3a onto the aftermarket big pipe so that may be why the hks felt better. Using the K&N may affect your maf.. ? I'm unsure if the pods from k&n are wet or dry (panels are wet). My old man has a couple laying around and i might try it on the line. No idea on the apexi ones though!

Old daily New daily bought couple of days ago Filled up the tank for $45, done over 100kms and the fuel needle has barely moved! lol

SOLD! To a nice fella on SAU.

The angular shaped ones is the aw11. There were two engine options, a high revving 1.6l and a supercharged 1.6. A n/a line will have alot more trouble against the supercharged aw11 or turbo sw20 (round shape one).