Touge Kyousou

Well...it's just an air filter lol. Had to today, booked in for reflash. Sitting around waiting till it's done...so bored =/ Just take the filter off when the dust storm is gone and give it a clean or a few taps against a hard surface and some pressurised air Lol, pretty wicked dust storm though...my v is garaged and it still managed to thinly coat the bonnet and roof of it!

Wow... just read this thread in it's entirety.. i think i started skimming from page 7 or so onwards. Words escape me on how disgusting this thread is lol. I guess it's crap like this that gives SAU a bad name. And yeah, i own a n/a skyline and love it - i've had gt-r owners offering swaps/swaps + cash my way but i still have my n/a skyline. As for n/a skyline being labelled pov pack..that's a pretty big insult considering i could've bought a 33 gt-r with change leftover instead. There are quite a few nice n/a lines out there from all gens. To the guy pulling 1.14's in the 32 around wakefield without FI, very nice dude. Oh, forgot to mention i'm an n/a enthusiast.. and yes, i have owned a turbo before. Didn't really like it much but of course, that's all personal preferences etc. Was glad to get back into an n/a car.

Ouch, that is just.. wrong =/ Feel your pain, i've been egged twice and it's taken paint off (twice). If it's gone to primer and even metal, buff and polish won't work. It'll be a respray. Now you can get the pro detailers to actually hide it, that's very easy - they sand/polish down the edges of the scratch and it actually becomes quite hidden/blended in but at close look you will see it (also because you know it's there). You can also get a body shop to mix up paint according to your paint code then get a detailer to fill that paint into the scratch and then buff/polish etc but it's quite time consuming. Then of course you've got the respray option, looking at the damage, a reputable company that does a good job will ask ~$1000 for it (here in sydney anyways). I used to be a detailer, so not talking outta my arse. GL man

Yep, have had VDC kick in even though i had it off (semi off).

Don't worry, i did read lol. Just sharing how i managed to not have vdc come on with car. Iirc, there was some American product/service that made the car start up with VDC always off, then if you want it on, you had to press the button. Might be worth asking around the American forums...or if Nissan do it for you, that's pretty cool too. Wouldn't have thought Nissan would do such a thing but there it is!

The resonator helps reduce NVH from the motor making the car seem more luxurious/smooth. The z tube from US cars has no resonator though. Without analysing it too much, having any form of resonator should create a bit of turbulence and decrease of air speed which is not what you want for the car...unless of course you want it to be more quiet etc. Ask Alan/Scathing, pretty sure he's taken his tube off before and noticed a small resonator on it.

Cheers, pretty sure i read that as well before i actually bought my V. Almost certain no hicas. On another note, i wouldn't be disabling VDC for insurance purposes etc. If you really wanna run around without vdc to test it out, simply unplug the abs power plug. You will lose vdc, abs, ebd and eba however. Do at your own risk.

Seems American G coupes have the hicas/rear active steer as an option on their cars after some googling. I've had my V on the hoist a fair few times and can definitely not see any linkages/electric actuators for adjusting the rear wheels angles. Interesting..

Why not go the American z tube ? I think the American Z's have a proper straight pipe whereas the Aus Z's tubes still had a resonator on them (though nothing like on the V).

The v35 coupe has hicas ??? I've never felt it on mine, nor see anything linked to 4ws/hicas. The rear end feels solid to me ?!? =/ I thought only some of the sedan variants had hicas. 245 f, 275 r here. No problems whatsoever.

-1 year and 1 month roughly -Dealer, fresh import -V35 coupe manual 2003 -Base $32500 driveaway, i paid a bit more to get some stuff done/changed -1 major problem...it dyno'd at 130rwkw.. fixed now and it's putting out 170rwkw @ ismr (where stock z's with same motor do 150's) -Fixed through giving car TLC.. i.e. changing all fluids and some consumables since me buying it. So no cost really, i see it as maintenance -About 400kms, i'm fairly heavy on the right pedal -5.9s, was quicker before but i have less rear grip on launch now due to moving to stiffer springs and using street tires again

I did semi gloss on another car and it came out fantastic (matt black paint but with a good several layers of top/lacquer). I was going to spray my oems on the V too but just ended up getting new wheels with tires as the old tires were almost gone.

I did my old car wih fishing line and clay bar. Was quick, easy and couldn't tell there was a badge there before.

Rs73, What you have said in the posts above are correct (i'm a light/torch freak.. have 35watt hid searchlights for toys and handheld maglites putting out the same light as a car on high beams) HIDS to be properly legal on cars... the car needs a headlight washer system. The reason being if you have a dirty headlight and HIDs, it can cause glare to oncoming traffic. My mate had a 6000k kit for awhile, it was a little blue to my eyes.. looked not bad though. But 4300k ftw.

Yeah pay as much as you can afford, and then some more.. they're the things keeping your car in control and 1 of 2 mods that will affect handling, acceleration, feel and braking.

Man up and come Alan! Lol j/k Diff bushings torn wow... afaik, the Z's had more diff bushings compared to the V. I think we have just one solid one but last i checked mine was ok. Yeah i should swap my rims.. have 18" gramlights on with 275 michelin pilot sport ps2 or 18" factory with 245 bridgestone re-01r... the bridgestones have way more grip.. I think i'd rather see what the car does in it's everyday form though, probably won't even do a burnout to heat the tires up... 14.5 ain't bad, especially in the heat.

Ahh that makes sense YoYo. Hrmm i should try that next time! Hrmm so 47 gets you $324. Not bad, i bet the comprehensive premium is helluva cheaper too.

Hot damnit! $650 ish but 24. Greenslips went up recently i was told.. (from my missus who works in aami).

I kinda am... curious to know what my car can do in the form i drive it as. Not expecting much though as i recently changed sussy so the rear doesn't squat as much and i went back to normal street tires. Maybe we can organise to meet somewhere and cruise there ? Lol...can even do auto vs manual grudge matches if enough go haha. Z will be quicker, they are a little bit lighter (stock for stock and from same year) and don't forget later model Z's then got the revup motor (221kw) then to the very high rev motor (230kw).

I'm sorta near that area, yeah why not lol.

Razor blade followed by clay bar Don't worry, it won't scratch your glass. Try and get those long thin razor blades that can sort of bend to the glass' shape. Once you've done that, simply follow up with clay bar to get it back to normal. I've heard eucalyptus oil works too, but i haven't tried/seen it done.

There's really no standard in compression as different engines vary and even different units of the same engine can vary a little bit. To me.. the results are decent ? 170 is good! I think 150 is still kind of acceptable. The engine should last for a fair while yet and i'd daresay with compression like that, i don't think it would have traveled 200,000kms. The exhaust note going deeper is a good sign If you keep up good servicing, warm up/down car and use good oil.. Did your mech determine with the 150 cylinders, is the leak seals or valves ? How are the two cylinders position in relation to each other. Might wanna look at getting an oil catch tank fitted btw ? Will prevent alot of that buildup in the intake and plenum (so the blowby hose doesn't feed straight into intake, it goes into a can with a filter that catches all the vapourised oil and muck.. and they're cheap). You should give a performance workshop a call (that inspects jap cars a bit) and ask them about the comp. results to be sure as i'm no qualified mechanic (just flick through some import magazine and see what names keep popping up). Btw, did you check the stuff i mentioned above ?

Wouldn't do it... The king springs for Z lower the Z 30mm or so... and Z springs onto V coupes lower an additional 1/2" so ~13mm. i.e. Total 43mm drop..you will kill your tires quickly due to the neg camber it will be running (can only adjust camber on the V so much).

I probably wouldn't be too worried about. Get it cleaned out, change the plugs, filter and get some of those engine treatment additives (some mix with fuel, some mix with oil during change). The VQ35 does produce alot of blowby and mine was quite dirty too, though it wasn't black at all..just a nice oily coating lol. Maybe the previous owner gave it a bit hence the blowby and black coating inside your plenum. If you're worried, just go get a compression test done. That'll give you a decent idea on how the engine really is. Then just do the usual inspection yourself i.e. looking at the drive and ancillary belts (are they cracked, faded, OEM belts ?), look for leaks around hoses and hose joints (like at the power steering pump). How are the brake pad and rotor thickness ? Is the bottom of the car all scuffed/marked etc. How's the steering wheel leather look ? Are there scratches all over the trimming in the boot ? Look at the suspension bushes too (v35's don't tend to be modded much in japan.. are the bushes still ok or are there cracks etc ? Even if the importer tried to hide the true km's i very much doubt they will bother replacing bushes. Even if it turns out the km's may be wound back..don't despair. For a little bit of money, you can freshen the car up (sussy bushes, shocks, wheel alignment and sussy components retorqued) and it would drive even better than a low km example.. just make sure you get that compression test done first so you know if it will last or if it's on it's last legs. GL

TT350GT, Welcome, sounds like a very nice ride. Total Q car with a hidden power lol. Mhmm lunch, i gotta cook dinner soon but no idea... feel like chicken curry.. Siglapian, Yep for any n/a 350gt, definitely vdc off. With a boosted auto 350GT, i really think vdc on will give close to best possible but with consistency.