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Touge Kyousou

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Everything posted by Touge Kyousou

  1. What DrewII said . Realistically, if you had good rubber and nailed a really good launch and shift to 2nd, i would dare guess your time should be flat 5, or very high 4's. Too hard to guess really. I notice you said your car is automatic though, so i think the best way to get consistent 0-100 in your tt 350gt would be to just push the stick to manual stick, and floor it off idle and make sure you leave traction control on lol so the computer does all the work and thus you get consistent times. You could try the brake hold and dial in a bit of revs for some boost but i'm pretty sure that would be too much power and the ecu will just cut in to get traction back. 0-100 doesn't really favour heavy cars, and the 350gt is no lightweight.. Your TT kit will show it's true potential if you take it down the 1/4, versus just a short 0-100km/h test.. TT 350z's run around high 12 and low 13 sec quarters from memory which will suggest a low 5 or high 4 0-100 but don't forget they run that quarter time on the dragstrip where the road is super grippy.
  2. At Kurnell actually.. thought about doing some shots at tom ugly's though. Haha yeah you probably did, i used to live in hurstville and still go there alot to visit my olds plus pickup stuff from the shops. I only just got the wheels though, would've been rolling around on the stockers.
  3. Here's a few of mine, i'll try for some better shots next time lol.
  4. 130 was when i first bought the car and it had a problem. 170 was only a few weeks ago. Indy simply printed an older run on the recent printout for comparison. As you can see, the afr's are quite decent i think.
  5. Glad you got to the bottom of it all. Yeah ISMR's dyno is a conservative reader. Interesting on their afr sensor not working properly..i only dyno'd there not long before the dyno day you guys went to but my afr readout seems to be ok. On the printout below, you can see my 130kw run and my after run.
  6. The ones you pictured are the ones i have that will be getting sold soon. Because they're scratched etc, i wouldn't dream of selling them expensive.
  7. I'll have a set for sale very soon if you're interested. However, they are pretty scratched (couple have medium gutter rash and the other two have bad gutter rash and some scratches along 1 or two of the spokes). Blame the owner in japan. Upside is you can get them fixed and repainted/powdercoated to your colour of liking if you buy 'em. Located in sydney, PM if interested.
  8. o.0 !! Omg what on earth.. Yeah what the US guys said, if your AFR was really up there, you should be pinging and the motor probably would've said byebye awhile ago. Maybe it is the AFR sensor on the dyno like you said. However, did you check to see if any of the cars run after you had ok AFR readouts ? That should give you some clues.. Your stock afr readout is about right. Pretty much the same mapping my car is running but with the mods in my list (just simple breather stuff). Even with everything you've heard/read from forums and mechs...if my car was posting an AFR like that...i'd take it to another dyno just to make sure everything was actually ok. GL.
  9. Good news, glad to see nothing is wrong with the car! How'd you determine the car was fine ? Do you know who did the dyno run at ISMR? I've been there for a few years and never had any issues, including dyno runs.. not much required for a power run, just set the parameters, then floor it! The first time my V went on IS' dyno, it only posted 130kw atw.. it's fixed now though
  10. I'll take it! Please PM details etc. Thanks!
  11. Hrmm yeah check round the intake and make sure nothing is pinching from the plenum spacer installation (eg. the oil fill rubber grommet/neck thing). But you said it felt faster than before install ? My car runs a tad (13's) lean as well. I'll try and scan sometime if you want but overall it's quite good.
  12. How'd your car go BLISTC ?
  13. BLISTC, Will be *very* curious to see your results! I think ISMR's dyno tends to be on the lowish side when reading power but that's the dyno i go by as my last 3 cars have only gone to ISMR. The wider rear wheels will decrease your power reading slightly as they should be a bit heavier hence sapping more power in the drivetrain loss.. but not by much unless it's massive weight difference. Curious to see results now
  14. http://www.mobilealloywheelrepairs.com.au/ OR Goto local auto parts store, buy a can of spray paint gloss black. Shake can and spray into a small container, use a fine brush to collect some paint from container and then paint over rashed area on wheel. The first option should have your wheel looking like new. Heard a few good things of those guys from other forum members who have used them.
  15. The OEM wheels and grille in black looks really really nice. Gives it a really aggresive look plus the wheels look similar to oz racing superleggeras...or was it ultraleggeras. I say do it hehe! Only problem i can think of would be the rear not being "tough enough" to match the side and front on view. The rears of the 370gt looks really luxo.
  16. It can be fixed...you're looking around $250-$300 or so depending on who you goto. The detailer will probably start with a medium swirl remover on a rotary on a medium/light pad. This will have to be followed up by a sealant/wax/both of your choosing or the detailers. Never ever use drive thru washes if you're worried about swirls peoples. I don't really recommend doing this yourself if you haven't done it before.. you may cause more damage if anything and it is a VERY time consuming process and special equipment really does help. GL.
  17. Ther, Most likely. Just have a look at the wheels too...if there are big impact marks, then you know the previous owner was probably drifting it or something and smacked it into the gutter bending some sussy arms etc. Doesn't help if they took off the damaged wheels and put the stockers on before selling though. Why don't you ask the guy for a test drive ? Then say the wheels aren't aligned and get him to align them as part of the sale deal..if it still doesn't drive right after, walk away. Or get an inspection done on it in particular focusing on the underbody and suspension. One thing is the alignment goes out pretty quick on these cars as they are so heavy. Oaksey, I follow what you're saying but when i push the car in left turns, it would wear more on the right and overall, the tire wear should balance out. Ah who knows...i guess i'll find out when i get my next set of tires, it's almost due for them too.
  18. Hrmm no problems from my 03 coupe when it was running stock sussy. Tire wear was right for how it was driven. Though interestingly, one tire (front passenger) was a bit more worn than others lol...weird.
  19. Good to see you're happy with your purchase. Yeah i agree on your first impressions of them, i felt pretty much the same when i put the same set (as in brand and model) onto my mazda 3 mps. They're not the best, but for the money.. they really are quite good.
  20. HAAAH ?!? What a rip ouch! When i used to do mobile detailing, i'd charge ~$250 for in and out. After the detail, the best thing you can do is look up ways to wash the car properly (ie washing without scratching. There's a couple of Aussie forums dedicated to detailing if you google.
  21. I think with the extender you'll just have to cut/drill a little hole in the trim so you can poke them through. Certainly beats jacking the car up or removing the whole strut to adjust...and you might need to adjust 5 times to finetune =/ mhmm edfc ftw!
  22. No the BC range wholesale have, i'm pretty sure is NOT the Greddy Type S. Wholesale in Sydney (Penrith and Blacktown) stock BC Racing VA series coilovers...these have been superseded. If you look at American dealers selling BC racing, they sell the BR series (these are gold and black coloured, not red and black like VA superseded series). It is the BR series that is getting compared favourably to Tein type Flex. However, the VA series will be quite decent for just a street driven V imho. Due to the suspension structure of the V, even if you have adjustable camber plates on your coilovers, you still won't be able to adjust the camber via the tops. Scathing, Yeah i've noticed the front heavy bias. Im running anniversary Z springs and shocks atm and am loving it. The rear is ~100ft/lb heavier than 03-04z and V35 springs. The dampers are much better too (in terms of firmness and control though the control could be because my V shocks upon uninstallation had 60thou kms and the anni.Z stuff only had 10thou kms). Combined with the swaybars on medium setting and the stickyish tires, handles ok. Oh btw guys...be careful about too heavy spring rates and damper. Not only will it be hella uncomfortable..it may stress your chassis and cause breaks such as broken welds (been there done that with jap spec Tein heavy street/track coilovers on my fto). I think what mosoto said is spring rates by itself doesn't mean much, you MUST consider the damper as well. However, you can generally tell from just the spring rate as to whether it'll be comfortable or not. And 15kg is NOT comfortable lol.. Even if the damper was super soft. Manufacturers generally don't put out info on their dampers other than describing whether it's soft firm etc. No values perse. Frank350gt, Let us know how you like it. I ran the VA series on my mazda 3 mps and they were good considering the money.
  23. That's exactly what i meant Scathing lol. Was too lazy to type many words haha. Yep, F that.. easy access FTW! Front 15kg and rear 9kg is WAY TOO harsh for our roads. It'd even be too heavy for track work.. (Aussie tracks are quite bumpy compared to top class tracks). Plus the photos of them really do look dodge lol..
  24. Mosoto got it right. Once you've determined what you want out of the car and suspension, then shop for options. Though i wouldn't discount cheap priced coilovers simply because of the design etc. I think most V drivers aren't after hardcore, rather a cost effective upgrade for mostly street work.
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