Touge Kyousou

Yeah just paid for it last night so don't actually have it yet, plus the motor needs to be rebuilt first so it'll be awhile before i feel the turbo. Stao sent me a dyno readout of the latest highflow and on e85, 22psi it put out 320rwkw but i'll only be running around 270rwkw (actuator pressure of 18psi) for a bunch of reasons posted above.

Hey guys, Thanks so much for all the helpful replies Looks like i'll be going for a standard build then.. i really can't justify performing a forged build due to other commitments plus i know i don't want to lean on the motor past low 300rwkws with reasons being lack of traction, the new turbo purchased maxes out at 320rwkw on e85, wakefield doesn't exactly favour big power and also killing all the other parts quicker.. so if the standard with uprated bolts and gasket will handle it, i'll be happy to run that and have some change leftover to go to other stuff. I'm probably going with autosport engineering at kirrawee for the build.. my last few visits have been good and have heard good stuff about them, plus the owner races nissans... Roger on the cooling, am looking into oil cooler... i don't want one too big to add further weight up front especially past front axle line so maybe one of the smaller jjr kits. Car already has a 40mm alloy rad, cooling panel and raised bonnet. Will look at undertray too but i don't think i'll have space for ducting... was looking into putting front brake ducts which will take whatever's left of the space and the a/c is still intact too (and will remain)...so there's not much room ? CHEERS

Hey guys, Seems i've lunched my 3rd engine lol, blown head gasket or something.. dumped coolant which was contaminated as hell, pop new coolant in and now coolant temp fluctuates, interesting a coolant dump and fill exposed an issue but anyways... The car gets used at wakefield a bit so i'm thinking of instead of repairing whatever is wrong with it, to do a rebuild instead. Problem is i don't think i can really afford a forged build but a standard build will be ok. I will be speccing a better headgasket and arp bolts though. What do you guys think of running a fresh standard build rb25 for circuit work ? I do treat the car very good in that i do about 2 flying laps then 2-3 cool down laps then 2 flying laps again so i'm not continuously leaning on it. Motor also gets fresh oil before a visit, and gets dumped straight after (have been using penrite hpr 10-50). On the flying laps the car really does get pushed though, as i'm there solely to chase PBs. Current setup in a nutshell: 260rwkw on e85, suspension and r comps. As part of the new build/repair/replace etc, the turbo is getting swapped out for one of hypergears latest hi-flow, and i will be running the motor up to ~300 rwkw e85, however this high boost mode will probably only be used once in awhile e.g. drag (if i ever go lol), or maybe just one lap at wakefield for craps and giggles. I suspect majority of the time the car will be running in approx 260-270rwkw as that's how the rest of the car is geared for (brakes, tires etc). tl;dr do you think a standard rebuild with good HG and arp head bolts will survive moderate track usage on 260rwkw ? Plan is 6 track visits a year. Cheers

Pm incoming =)

PM incoming

Hi dori34, I'll take the 33 exhaust heat shield, provided it's still available. Pm incoming. Cheers.

Thanks for the replies guys, all really helpful! Understood - it's a very rough correlation, but just till i get my oil temp gauge, it's better than nothing! It sounds like i've been playing it quite safe so i might just keep what i'm doing. Car has a 40mm alloy rad now, standard heat exchangers and standard thermo, running e85 on a track friendly tune via pfc. Coolant temp idle/cruises at around 78-80 and on the track soon as i see the coolant hit 90 i start cooling it down which isn't so much an issue as i get two hard laps at wakefield out of that and i'm only chasing PB's so the cooldown laps allow me to get the tires back to optimum along with all fluids/cooler and intake temp.

Hey guys, Just wanting to know at what coolant temperature did you guys back off at the track and start the cooldown lap ? I know i should be going off oil temperature but i don't have a gauge for it yet so if anyone knows roughly what the coolant temp is at when the oil is around the 120 degree mark, that will help me heaps till i get the gauge... Cheers!

Fatz, The nt01's feel a bit better than a second faster than ku36's to me, but my experience is only wakefield. Though... i did change wheels at the same time so it's not apples to apples unfortunately.

Just came back from wakefield today running the nt01's. As expected (to me), they slaughter the ku36's i had before. Steering was so much busier with ku36's constantly doing mini counters to prevent the arse coming out (sometimes on entry but mostly on exit). Tires responded well to pressure change, found sweet spot for me was around 35-36 hot. They do go off after a good hard few laps needing a 2 lap cool down (perfect, as the fluids needed it then too lol). hrd-hr30, Yep i know the nt01s are almost the same as r888's. I have read/heard that the nt01's for some reason are noticeably better than the r888's though ?? *shrugs*. At the price i got them for, i'm not complaining but you're right... i would love to try some a048/50s some day. Also, after a session today, i pushed the top of the tire fairly lightly and could see the sidewall move lol. Ku36 sidewalls were definitely stiffer. I can feel it just driving around on the streets from just going over bumps even ? Hrmm

just came back from wakefield today, 3rd visit. 1:10.6 street rego'd 33 gtst, 260rwkw nitto nt01's, BC coilovers, whiteline sways standard brakes Definite room for improvement, aiming for 9s next visit.

My whale

If you're going to buy injectors, may as well get something that flows more than 550cc. Maybe look at 740, 850 or 1000. Gives you that headroom if you want to go e85 later, which usually means another 30% or so of injector duty cycle. There are usually second hand apexi PFC's on this forum for sale in the for sale section..i think there's one for sale atm for $750 without hand controller. The hand controller is nice, but not a necessity. Only essential if you plan to run the boost module/kit with the pfc as you use the hand controller to select boost profile. For your clutch, depends on what power level you intend to go to, how much you're willing to spend and also how comfortable you'd like it to be.

Had some ku36s before and they impressed me for street and track. They do go off after 2 hard laps at wakefield but till then were good. They do deteriorate rather quick in performance from when new to old. Have some nt01s on now and keen to try these on wakefield...seems from reports it might not be too suitable but i generally do 2 flying laps then a cooldown or 2. Interesting that someone noted nt01s aren't much better than rsr's... i would've expected them to be. New ku36's i think were marginally better than rsr's and these nt01's destroy the ku36s imho. Interesting to note is the nt01 seems to be very light, especially for an r comp... and the sidewall is not stiff at all...

Bump for awesome seller and nice guy! Bought wheels off PN-Mad, and he even personally delivered them to me at my work, due to me needing them in a rush. Thanks for the wheels again man, stoked with them

Been running qfm a1rm front and rear last couple of visits to wakie...cannot fault them at all. Excellent stopping power and no fade on my setup. Bit of squeal here and there but that doesn't bother me at all. Easily best pad i've ever used. Handed my car to a mate for one session and he is now buying the same pads!

Oh, and the apexi ecv thing would require drilling a hole from in to out of the car for the cable...not something everyone want's to do. Cabling for varex can be routed from under boot to in cabin quite easily.

I have a varex and really like it. The receiver module controlling the solenoid for the valve did play up and eventually died so like mentioned, i hardwired the solenoid. If you do get a varex, i would heavily recommend ditching the remote system straight away and just go hardwire to switch. The remote system on mine even when brand new had a 1/10 chance of not working and also there is a 1/2 second delay between pressing the button and the valve working (which doesn't happen when hardwired). It's nice to have straight flow muffler during circuit work then having the choice of quietness when just pottering around/avoiding attention.

Hahaha.. well this is for a 4a-gte so really shouldn't have any secrets to it and this place i'm trying to remember seemed to do a really good job - hope i manage to track it down. Seriously contemplating reviewing my entire browser history to find it now =/

Hey SAU, I remember reading a thread not long ago where one of us got i think an rb25 fully rebuilt by a shop. They did everything in house and he was really happy with the work plus the shop and work looked good in posted photos. The price was fair too, from memory For the life of me, i can't remember the name of the shop. Fairly desperate to track it down though, a car has a spun bearing. -It was in sydney -They had a pretty schmick website -Seem to remember all they do was engine builds/rebuilds etc (so not a usual tuner shop name like unigroup, autotech etc etc) -*seem* to recall they're in fairfield ?! I know this isn't much info to go on, but if you think you know the place please let me know the name.. soon as i track down and see the website i'll know. Any help appreciated, cheers!

Could you rephrase what you wanted to know ? I read your first post again but not entirely sure what you're asking haha (am tired after a long day though hrm). Things that may help you about this ebc though (yours is the ms-ibc yes?) If the other profiles haven't been set, you shouldn't be overboosting as the duty cycle would be set to ten, and the gain set to 0.. meaning the ebc will hardly be working at all. So effectively your setup should be running at almost wastegate pressure on any profile that hasn't been touched. As to how the unit works, you can't specify a psi with the unit. You can only set the duty cycle which will directly affect the boost level. The higher the duty cycle, the higher the boost. This manual should help heaps if you haven't seen it yet. http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/pdf/MS-IBC%20Instruction%20PDF%20Ver1.01.pdf

Please do not fiddle with the EBC if you're not too sure - unless you want to break the engine (i'm assuming it's stock motor as you haven't mentioned otherwise). The EBC is displaying a little higher than what you're seeing because that's the highest peak it's ever seen - possibly from the previous owner or yourself driving it one cold night and getting a slight boost spike from the denser/cooler air. It sounds like only profile 3 and 4 is setup on the ms-ibc so please stick with those profiles.

n/a supra, vtec/engine swapped civics, teggy vti-r, prelude vti-r, 3s-ge sw20 mr2, aw11 mr2 if you can find one, manual mivec fto, silver/blacktop 4a-ge levin/trueno. That'd be my shortlist. Or you've got the classic trashed q's silvia etc

Enjoying this thread, gorgeous cars too btw. Man, i actually remember seeing this car for sale on carsales couple of years ago sorta thought about seeing/buying it! Keep up the work, looking good.

Toyota Aurion or Mazda 3 or Toyota Corolla Sportivo (celica 141kw engine) ?