Touge Kyousou

Safc that can only alter air fuel on a n/a skyline with mild bolt ones is fail in gain imho. And err, that seems really slow considering you have some bolt ones too. I've been in a friend's na 34 auto and it was stocker (is completely stock). Maybe get the health of the engine checked out and make sure timing is ok before trying to make it faster. Heck, if there's something wrong and it gets found and fixed it'll be faster anyways lol

As above, just tow the car home and buy a neo head or full engine from one of Australia's many wreckers or even off SAU. Plenty of friendly helpful folk on here (who also sometimes happen to have lots of spares haha). If you can't get any help, i've seen many a people on here offer someone a bit of money to do some shopping/running around and packing/posting. A head shouldn't be hard to ship to the UK. That's a bit BS about charging you per day because your car is taking up space... must be a really small workshop or something. My car is also at a workshop at the moment, with two engines sitting on their floor and a gearbox plus misc bits. I'm waiting for parts to be made/delivered and they're not charging me any holding fee etc. Not that i did it on purpose though, they pulled the dead motor out then said you need blah blah blah before we feel comfortable putting new motor in. GL

Has anyone used the r33 hard race engine mounts? If so, any good/would you recommend? Swapping motors atm and have bought too much already.. would normally just get the nismo ones at $400 but the hardrace ones are also solid urethane at $200.. Search didn't reveal much. I know the nismo ones are rated as 30-40% stronger than oem units but Hardrace's website don't specify how much stronger theirs are.

Revs nicely to 7400rpm, doesn't really let off til 7100rpm - a lot of that is in the tune though of course (ignition timing). Truth be told, my gate control is REALLY crap atm, real hack job so no doubt could be much better but other responsibilities now prevent full setup changes etc. Boost is at a max of 1.34 bar so approx 19.5 psi. But with the current offerings from hypergear, i know what turbo i would prefer! ( one of those ss1 or ss2 items for sure and almost full bolt on) As for your calculation, 356kw at engine = approx 250rwkw after drivetrain losses. I'm assuming a drivetrain loss of 30% which i think should be about right considering the period of our drivetrains and age of the box etc. I'm about to change over to caltex e-flex so expecting 275rwkw on the same low reading dyno with the tiny turbo lol and that should do me happy - 245rwkw was already spinning second if the tires weren't properly warm (245 ku36's but on 1.2 negative camber)

My setup has a gt2871rs with .86 and maxes out at 245rwkw on a low reading dyno. Setup is in sig. Hth

Cheers for the input. Seems i will be fine then as i don't go rippings skids at all or launching it trying to beat everything. Car basically sees weekend street, touge and is due for light 1/4 drag and wakefield once/twice a year when it gets back on the road.

Thanks for that, hopefully it holds then!

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone knows the max rwkw an exedy heavy duty clutch would hold? I'm fairly sure mine's a heavy duty and it's holding 245rwkw fine but will be going to 275 or so soon Cheers.

Try penetrol (available in spray can format) from bunnings etc. The 4wd'ers love 'it. Some of them penetrol their bull bars and after 1 year of going off road and in salt water etc, no rust on their bull bars. I tested some and it visibly repels water, pretty fun to play with lol. There's some other products from the same manufacturer but i think the spray can format will work best for you.. just aim and spray lol so no need to get your hand all the way in.

Any large injectors mate?

Www.e-go.com.au Www.transdirect.com.au

No snappage on my gates racing belt at 75 thou. Didn't notice extra noise either *shrugs*. Have an oem belt about to go into a replacement motor though even though it was only $22 extra for the gates racing belt in a major service kit. Don't gates market the racing (blue) belts as 300% stronger than oem and fray and heat resistant etc? Really do wish nissan motors were non interference for a bit of extra safety when it comes to timing belt disasters.. only takes a damaged belt or seized water pump/idler bearing etc to screw our motors.

if the OP loved his gts-t so much, why not buy another one... will have a bit of money left for mods/maintenance.

Thanks for th replies guys. Upon further diagnosis, my head is stuffed too lol so won't be purchasing this bottom end from the seller. I'll let them know this info anyways as it should help 'em sell it.

Hi all. Anyone know if the r33 rb25det series 1 and series 2 blocks are directly interchangeable I.e bolt on affair? My mechanic is a bit hazy on the vtc oil return/feed in particular. Basically my bottom end is rooted and found another bottom end on here but seller is unsure if it's a s1 or s2 block. Thanks all.

Extremely keen. Will contact you when on pc. If you'd like, pm me your number and we can talk about it instead. Sorry on iPhone ATM.

You need a tuner to "turn" your boost up because the car's air fuel ratio (the amount of air the engine combusts per stroke to the ratio of the amount of fuel used in that same stroke) needs to be set and optimised. The tuner also needs to set the ignition timing (basically exactly when the spark plug will fire causing the combustion). There are a few other variables as well. Plus the tuner can set your electronic boost control properly as there are options in it to bring boost on earlier/ramp harder etc that are outside of just turning the percentage up or down. Once your car is tuned for e.g. 14psi, you can almost guaranteed safely run lower boost if you want to without needing a retune as your car was tuned for 14psi anyways and running 10psi will only be mostly nicer to the engine but running more than what the air fuel ratio and ignition timing was tuned for is dangerous as you will likely lean the car out causing detonation etc (piston/rings killer) If you're running the factory ECU/computer then they usually accept a moderate increase of boost ok but gains are still to be had from getting all the variables optimised but if you're running a programmable computer such as nistune, apexi pfc, safc etc etc, then chances are it will instantly need a retune as alot of these computers only have static maps and can't really compensate for changing conditions like extra boost (beyond what it was tuned for). Enjoy the car, sounds like you're having fun with it

Short of owning that particular car, would i be better comparing dynos? Or maybe just read how it feels? Perhaps i should look up manufacturer specs and work out how fast it'll be with weight, torque, power output, aerodynamic drag, tire rolling resistance, driveline and misc power loss. Grab a speedo vid of a hyundai excel from 80-140 and another vid of an r35 gt-r doing 80-140.. if you can't work out which is faster... well then you must be blind. I'm not saying it's definitive but it gives something reasonable to compare to. Like GTScotT mentioned, long as the video is on a flat straight road, it's better than comparing dynos or all the BS talk in this thread imho. As for the OP, most of the info to cheap power upgrades has already been mentioned in this thread i believe. Just do intake, tbe exhaust, turbotech boost controller, fmic and safc for 170ish rwkw. Get some stuff second hand off forums etc and you should be able to get it all done for under 2k bought, installed and tuned. Gotta shop around for your labour rates too though. If you know you're gonna chase more power later then you'd be taking a different path from the beginning however e.g. you wouldn't buy, install and tune a safc as it'll only need to be ditched later.

I lent my mate my line not long ago and he was happily driving home when a ve SS did the rev and floor it off the lights, then revved again at the next set of lights. Mate said my 1st and 2nd was lineball.. but sligtly sideways and wheelspinning haha, then 3rd just walked away. Garrett GT28 equipped. Reads 250rwkw atm, but on a low reading dyno. If my tires were warm, then 1st should walk away even (running s compounds). I've got a vid of my 3rd gear and compared it to quite a few other ones on youtube such as c63amg, e92 v8 bmw m3 etc etc. Only reasonable car i found faster (and only slightly) was a porsche turbo. By reasonable, i am discounting the exotic supercars like koenigegg, veyrons etc etc.

This is for the bolt that holds the strut bar to the tower mounts: Total bolt length is 76mm long not including the head. The head size is 17mm. The bolt starts off with a slight taper that is threadless and this bit is 11mm. Then the threaded section which is 28mm long. Then finally a threadless section again at 37mm before ending with the head of the bolt. Thickness is 12mm on threaded and threadless section.

Lucky for you i'm working on my car (boot area) tonight. I'll take one off and measure it for you. I'll post back in the AM or so.

n15 SSS are pretty exxy though aren't they? I'm aware it's a crap load more power lol (but the sr20 normal version is still bested by a fair few other natro 2L.. my first car was 2L natro with 116kw atw). n14 SSS would be more at $3.5k but they are getting a bit old/completely thrashed and the interior is pretty ugly.. $3.5k would get an alright magna... (in all honestly, i'm not poking fun lol), it won't be under 120k though..OP should probably try and increase his budget slightly as at the cheap end of the market, a few dollars increases quality almost exponentially.

Pulsar eeewww... my mum had an n15. So disgusting. I'm sure the sss might be different but anways. I've driven a few corolla's and i reckon they handle great. My current daily is an ae112r corolla sedan manual, it handles really really well considering it's a fwd grocery getter. I just recently put ku31's on and it is quite fun though a bit vague when pushing it more than lightly.. For $3.5k, i would definitely look for an older corolla, think ae92 etc BUT with a silver/black top 4age conversion or if you get lucky, a 4agze conversion. Yes, if you shop around you can find them for this price as corolla's are generally shadowed by hondas so they go for really cheap. Semi old school cool and zippy speed perfect for battling suburban traffic and roads and who doesn't love a motor than can rev heh. Try looking on the toyota forums like twincam.org Only reason my daily isn't something like the above is i needed something newer as i've just started a family.

OP, off topic, but love your avatar... brings back memories when i went to japan for a holiday ahhh...the food is cheap and awesome there! I'd chime in, but everyone else has already answered your questions.

I have a spare gel cell one you can look at and fiddle around with if you want. Am in sydney st.geoge area. Oh, it's exactly the same as the one you linked too except mines old so it has a black casing instead of the grey. Btw, jaycar has that battery too so you can prolly pick it up for slightly cheaper at jaycar by simply asking for a discount. Also have one in my 33 - used custom (home made lol) brackets to hold the battery. Can't fault the battery, performs well but is starting to show signs of age finally.