Touge Kyousou

Can't edit previous post, please ignore. Brain fart...am looking for slightly different item.

Sent you a pm cheers.

Got the bolts for the turbo heatshield? If so i'll grab it. Might miss your reply so just PM me cheers.

There are hardly any shortcuts with cars...you get what you pay for yep.

Also keen to know this, the r33 ratio is pretty slouchy imho. I had a v35 (basically a 350z lol) before the 33 and the ratio was much much better although strangely enough, i have better response in the r33 lol. Will be keeping an eye out for info on this topic.

Just keep an eye out for the LSD, it''ll pop up sooner or later! Did you get adjustable sway bars ? As because you are stripping the car, it will obviously affect f/r weight balance and also weight/force on each end's tires affecting grip/oversteer/understeer and the adjustable sway bars will come in handy for correcting it your personal preference/driving style along with pressure changes in f/r tires. Wow that was poorly worded but it's friday night and i can't be arsed to recycle it into something better Nice one on the seats! Luckily for me i have found my stocko 33 seats to be really good for me (probably because i'm sized like a typical japanese man lol). I like duncan's suggestion too lol.

To me, it sounds like you should get the adrenalines again...you'll pay more now but over long run you'd probably pay the least by getting them again. S compounds wear pretty quick with most being rated at 140-180 whereas adrenalines are 220 iirc. Also another thing to note is most if not all s compound tires come with a fair bit less tread than a normal road tire like an adrenaline would have so suddenly you have this tire that is quite low in treadwear rating and didn't have much tread to begin with (i'm referring to the s compounds). The s stuff tends to age as well if kept too long e.g. they'll take longer and longer to get sticky which can be annoying depending on how you drive your car and oh yeah, they do need a little warm up time though the ku36's in my experience warm up to more than acceptable grip levels quite quickly (around 5 minutes of normal driving should get you to a good road tires grip levels). Whether it is day or not/winter/summer also affects how fast they heat up.. i've had 15 minutes of normal driving on a very cold night and the grip level was still kinda below a UHP road tire. Also there's a test on tire rack comparing the ku36 against the re11 and there really wasn't much in it... the re11 is a better all rounder but the ku36 was very strong in lateral grip (tire rack's first test tire to break 1g cornering forces in their tests). I went with ku36's because they're pretty dam cheap considering how good they are (for my intents) and local availability as in i phoned, drove in and got them put on and went home in same day. edit - ku36's are a fair bit cheaper than 595rsrs even.

Got pics? Bit hard to understand in words sorry.

What tires are you using atm? 2k.. f/r adjustable swaybars - 500 second hand lsd - say 800 aggressive street wheel alignment + corner weighting - $350 Strip the car (start with boot and rear) depending on personal preference/usage - free Bit of money left over for install help if you cant diy/some replacement bushes. Depending on how low it is, you might not need adjustable sussy arms etc. The factory stuff gives a small range of adjustment and is generally enough to do an aggressive street setup if the car's not too low (check the bushes condition though).

Way to go for a newbie to the forums...make enemies of half the members haha Plenty of info if you search re insurance, running costs, purpose/intents etc etc. GL

Spoke to one of Sydney's leading exhaust shop a fair while ago. Was told ceramic core cats crap themselves under high hp...gets blown to bits or collapses/melts etc and he recommended a metal cat and said the magic cat brand (or was it metal cat) was the one to go for from memory. I'm pretty sure you can get these upto 5". Then again, my line at the moment is running a ceramic high flow @250rwkw and it's fine..cats old'ish too.

If it was me, may as well just go get a touch up tune as you never know how good or bad the previous tune is. Try and find someone who will tune with engine mics attached to the block etc instead of relying on the oem knock sensors that are 10+ years old. I think there's a two different camps regarding this and one is that the oem/factory knock sensors are useless past much factory output and have aged and will give alot of false readings. Guilt toy mentioned he experimented with relying on factory knock sensors via pfc then using a k-mon (knock detection device) and tuning using the k-mon gave an extra 30rwkw or something and a fatter mid range. With the pfc utilising the factory knock sensors...i've been told/read anything over 60 is bad and under it is kinda ok. No setup using the pfc/factory knock sensors will ever register no knock (i.e. you will always see knock values in the safe range of 0-40 or so). I guess you have to decide for yourself whether you'd be happy with a tune using the factory knock sensors or that k-mon thing etc. A thing to be aware of is after getting a touch up tune, make sure the tuner is willing to go on the road quickly to check their tune in real life as sometimes a dyno tune with no knock will knock on the road/real life conditions due to differences from being on a dyno and on the road. I had this issue but didn't want to do a road tune so a quick touch up was applied to the touch up tune lol and it still knocked...pretty gay.. In the end i changed to different fuels and used the pfc hand controller to find the offending load cells and adjust as necessary.. this was kinda painful as i didn't have the fc datalogit program and relied soley on the hand controller. What i did was set the controller to display two values being knock and rpm then soon as i saw abnormal knock, i would back off then inspect the rpm point and go into the ignition maps and adjust as necessary. Then reset the display values (right arrow button) and repeat this process until WOT gave no more abnormal knock readings. Remember you will need to know your WOT map trace pattern first to do this procedure.

Well a 34t does have have a slightly larger rear housing turbo so should make a lil more power than a stock turbo'd r33. Maybe the OP should just get a few bolt ons and a stocko r34 turbo...pretty much a direct bolt on then and should see the 200mark easily. That's a nice number for a street car imho. Anyways yeah mod it, lol. Edit - oh and yeah, do it right the first time. It will be cheaper over the long run...so if you know you'll want more than 200ish, just get the damn 3071/3076 etc etc already lol.

Or any of your local performance workshop that specialises or has a lot of skyline customers. Performance exhaust workshop would have some too from making custom dumps to fit custom turbo installations.

Lol, fail! I personally wouldn't pay more than 7k tops seeing as it's automatic.. i'm fairly sure automatic gtst's sell lowish due to low demand.

Yeah bolts at the front were a bitch! Mine were so tight i ended up having to call my personal mechanic over to undo 'em and got him to finish the job seeing as he was already here hehe.. He had to use a 800mm or so breaker bar on the castor rod bolts that go through the lower arm and even that wasn't enough...needing to put a 250mm extension on the bar before the nuts would give way. Due to the extra ends length of the whiteline adjustable bar i have, one of my castor rods and it's bracket had to be removed so the bar could go in - this is an older style bar with 5 holes though. The new ones only have 3 holes front and you probably won't need to remove the castor rod and it's bracket. Rears are annoying if you bought adjustable bars as you then have to put in the whiteline link kit that's supplied with the bar (ditching the factory links).

Another +1 for ku31...should be roughly the same prices as you listed and is a really good tire for the money.

The potential clearance is so small it probably comes down to manufacturing clearances hence some fitting and other cars needing a very small spacer. Yeah like i said, they're cheap at usually $400 or so for a set with tires, they're 1" wider and larger and look a bit better. Here's a pic

They're good if you want a sleeper appearance.. Still looks factory (but better than the 33 wheels) whilst giving you 1" extra (shhh...)

Well yeah get rid of that but it shouldn't really give understeer though. I know what you mean by mid corner understeer..i had the same with my 33 and was also very annoyed by it. That was running 1.5 neg camber front with 7degree castor too and bilstein stocks/hks springs! Even stripped the rear of the car to change the weight bias (effectively more weight on front wheels) and it still had mid corner understeer. I recently installed f+r adjustable bars and things are much tighter now but it needs some playing around with the f/r bar stiffness. Yep those jjr ones are massive... they may actually be not as aggressive as they sound IF they are hollow...if they are solid though...it's gonna be one aggressive bar (probably too aggressive)!

Fits ok.. you may need a very small spacer for the front to clear the brake calipers... some users have found they needed whereas some haven't (talking a mm or so clearance here though lol). In terms of offset etc, the front's come up pretty good though the rear could do with a little but all in all, for the price 34gtt wheels go for, it's an alright upgrade as the wheels are 7.5 allowing for wider tires and looks a million times better than the oem 33gtst wheels!

Hey i just checked, think i'm wrong lol not you. There's some whiteline bars that work for r33/s14/s15 so i guess some bars are interchangeable then!. I would imagine the 33 to need slightly larger bars than the s14/s15 due to heavier weight.

Well doing the rear will decrease body lean which will further help turn in and cornering performance. It's just that most rwd cars get the front bar upgraded not the rear, as upgrading the front bar will allow the car to drive out of corners better (by placing more load on the rear wheels hence more traction). Usually it's fwd cars that will do the rear bar first/only as that increases the limit before understeer and also introduces a bit of a twitchy rear end for the fwd car so it can sort of pivot around corners. My guesstimate is bottom line, it should give you a noticeable feel in cornering performance/feel so i say go for it too..it's a cheap mod compared to all else really.. just bear in mind you are changing the understeer to oversteer tendency of the car by doing one bar only (so preferable to buy an adjustable bar so you can have a little control of the bias). Your front camber will no doubt give excellent turn in but once turned in you may not be getting full traction available unless you corner like a maniac on the street lol...the camber is probably too much that once turned in, your front tires aren't sitting flat on the road hence not getting maximum lateral traction. I wouldn't worry too much about rear camber as long as it's around neg 1 or so. Anymore for street and you're once again not getting full lateral grip. Plus by doing the rear swaybar, this will actually encourage the rear wheels to not change camber as much during cornering due to less body lean/roll. Munkyboy, Pretty sure s15 bars won't fit r33..some s14 bars will however.

You mention understeer in the first post then in a follow up post say that the car turns in crisply but the back end wobbles ? Sooo, which is it ? A rear swaybar done by itself will generally give less understeer but make the car more prone to oversteer. As you go through the turn, the thicker rear bar will place more weight on the front wheels thus giving the front end more grip but the rear will have less grip - this is a generalisation as it all depends on the exact car and existing sussy etc. A rear strut brace may help a little but likely not alot...the problem more lies in the chassis design (it's an almost 20year old design after all) and the chassis aging/deteriorating. Your front camber is pretty damn excessive too, if this is a street car i.e. 3.5 would be perfect for track but overkill for the street. 1.5 would be plenty. Look into increasing castor angle for the front so you get dynamic negative camber instead. Also get a good wheel alignment where they do the toe in/out settings as this will greatly affect the feel and behaviour of the car too. The backs cannot really be camber adjusted as well (well not a great range due)...to make drastic camber changes, you'll need camber arms for at least the back. I didn't realise jjr made bars for skylines ? I've seen the ones they have for silvias but they're specced at 30mm + .. i suspect they're for the drift crowd. Personally, i'd go for adjustable bars, that way you can dial it to exactly how you want. I'm in the process of doing so for my car.

Thanks guys. Installed. Weird how there's only one nut holding the bottom of the two bushes on the link, i might loctite as precaution. Car feels pretty nice in the short drive i had afterwards.