Jon Powell

Well it gets worse.... 340HP last Friday, the 3rd, inc boost leaks, etc... On this past We levelled out boost at 13ish PSI, evened out the AFR's a little more and hit 325HP on Saturday. I blew the coolant return line, fixed it & called it a day. Sunday went back, hooked it all up & we lost 75HP overnight...250HP on Sat, I am attaching the sheets for your review...boost is solid, AFR is solid HP & torque is WAY down. I dont get it. Thanks guys!

Well, I did some work to it last night. Found a decent sized boost leak, one of the clamps had slipped off the coupler. I also took the stupid fast idle device off the Q45 TB(Forgot in my haste) and reset everything. While I was letting the car warm up to set idle speed & timing, I started hearing a screaching noise from what I THOUGHT was the water pump....but no it was from the alternator. I was tightening the throttle cable and noticed an orange glow from under the throttle body....peek around and the alternator is RED HOT and emitting an orange glow from all the vents. I wouldnt be surprised if it was a mixture of boost leak/no power for the coils that caused it, but I have a 110AMP alternator on the way that supposedly will fit the RB25, I changed plugs, coils, IAC and will be revisitng the dyno on Sat....I will let you guys know what comes of it. Thanks for all the help! Jon

Here are the sheets, let me know what you think! Thanks!

I had no choice in downpipe size, I have no room for 3" piping where its at. Beinge that the engine is in the S13 chassis and its left hand drive, I have space limitations. I had to fit a pipe between the mani & firewall & the brake booster & engine. 3" was just NOT an option. Once the exhaust gets below the steering column it opens to 3" so we are only talking about say 12-16" of 2.5 pipe before it opens up. There is no cat in the system, straight test pipe. At first I thought the O2 location was an issue, but the AFR's on my WBO2 and the dyno's match identical. I had the overboost protection set for like 20 PSI and the boost set at 17PSI. The boost controller has a hi & lo setting and for each one you have gain, boost limit, overboost warning & overboost reaction. I am going to try a new set of spark plugs, a new set of coils & see what happens. Is it possible the VVT kicking off could be my second dip? I plan on running to the shop in a bit, scanning the dyno plots & uploading them. Hopefully you guys will see what I mean & help me to get an idea of whats up. This car is a beast, what is the max RPM for stock valvetrain ont he RB25, I am thinking of upping my redline as we are still making power at 6700RPM. The thing wants to keep going!!! Thanks for all the help!

I forgot the most important part, we are using the Power FC and I have the Commander Pro software allowing me to tune the car with my laptop. The AFR's are under 12 from 2PSI @ 2600RPM all the way through redline. They are between 11 & 12 all the way. It appears That the FIRST drop off is boost related. I got ahold of a few more charts from the runs and it appears that the boost spikes at 16.8PSI at about 4400RPM and drops like a rock to 14PSI at 4800RPM. It never goes above 15PSI again before redline. One thing I have to look into. I am unsure if its from the crappy manifold or the boost controller. The first drop off on the power charts are at 4600ish RPM, right after boost starts to drop off. I can pretty much relate the 50lb/ft loss to that. The 5600 loss is disturbing me. I t appears to be VVT related, I assume the VVT kicks in around that area. Is there any way I can shut off the VVT or adjust when it kicks in on a Power FC?

Ok, I got my latest project on the dyno yesterday only to find something funny... At about 4600, power drops off like a ROCK...I am talking a 50 wheel torque drop off and 25HP drop off. Torque never fully recovers & HP recovers at about 5400. at around 5600 I have another bad dip. The AFR's are steady between 11 & 12 from 2600RPM to 6700RPM. I will post dyno plots later once I get to a computer with a scanner, but this is VERY curious. Mods are: RB25DET into S13 chassis SSPower crap manifold Innovative turbo GTS61HP Innovative Progate wastegate Greddy intake manifold Q45 TB FMIC Sard 850cc/min injectors Greddy 1MM Headgasket Nismo Fuel pressure regulator set to 43.5PSI base Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost controller 2.5" dump pipe & 3" exhaust(Had to clear the steering) Any insight as to how we can fix this would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks! Jon Powell

Hey guys, I am installing an E6K into an S13 with RB25DET. I know about the ignition issues and have gotten ahold of a different ignition setup for the car. I was wondering if anyone had the basemaps they could send me. I tried searching for a bit under "Haltech" "Haltech RB25DET" and "Haltech basemap" but came up with nothing. If you guys can help out, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks! Jon Powell

I know this is gonna sound silly, but check you filter and intake pipes for rags. At my shop we like to stuff rags in the while working to keep the intake clear of dust.

Anyone willing to look at their ECU for me and tell me where the green wire goes and where the blue wire goes?? Should be the pins #41&51 and 42&52. Thanks in advance! Jon

I need a little help with a series 2 RB25DET...apparently the 1 degree input and the 120 degree input wires for the series 2 are different colors than the series 1. It seems that the Series 1 are green with one silver stripe for the 120 degree and red with one stripe for the 1 degree....I however have blue with one stripe and green with one stripe. Is there a series 2 pinout anywhere out there?? Thanks! Jon

Look for r32NISMO down toward the bottom of the page and in his sig is the link I believe. http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...ight=manual+gtr

http://www.endsurfer.com/uploads/gtr_32_se...vice_manual.pdf I think this is what you want. Thanks goes to r32NISMO on the Skylines Downunder forums for hosting this HUGE file!

Try this on for size, I use it almost every day http://download.com.com/3000-2056-8881965....tml?tag=lst-0-1