Bill

Nope. Vehicles are specificaly excluded in the house and contents policy Pity, cos thats got a zero $ excess. Have to claim under my car policy so its the $500 basic excess. Ive been told I may not loose my no claim discount since I held a gold rating at my previous insurer and it was ment to be acceped at this company but was not noted. Guy there said provide proof and it may still carry over (fingers crossed) Saw the panelbeaters today. They said since only one panel is undamaged they are quoting for a full respray. Spose I your an optimist $500 for a full respray isant that bad....

You mean where an 18 year old ford laser was parked...

No. Builder has just had a look and said it was caused by a roof leak. Now I have to argue with the insurer's to see which one will pay for the car damage I spose...

While its only gyprock, the garage ceiling is a bit over 4 metres so it had a lot further to fall than a normal ceiling. Damage is scratches on every panel (some could be buffed, some too deep) and some nasty dents on the roof and read quarter panel. Might be some other small dents as well, but I havent taken it out and cleaned the dust of yet.

There was a loud noise in the garage an hour ago. This is what I found.

Is there any tricks to remove the front bar of an R34 GT-T? I would assume that its just a matter of unplugging the blinkers and undoing a few bolts? Nothing difficult? No hidden or really hard to reach bolts?

just added a couple of pics to show in better detail

I saw a nice mod done to a front bar in the for sale section. (pics are from that forsale thread) Ive got the same bar and would like to do this to mine. Looks a lot better and should help the intercooler a fair bit too I would guess. Top pic is the before pic, Ive put red arrows on the removed bits, 2 vertical supports, hard to see in this pic, and a big bloody ugly bit under the number plate that you cant miss. Just after some feed back on, has anyone else done this, if this is safe, and if any reinforcing is necessary? Im inclined to think I should glue a piece of aluminium bar behind the bottom section, and behind the bar the number plate is on. Thoughts on this? Edit: Added a couple of pics to show the monstrosity that is the number plate holder in detail. Just look at how much of the intercooler it blocks

Street. I will make up my own mind on driveability and such after I have had a drive in it, as doubtless we all have our own preferences here. But so far Im getting the impression its not a bad combination, as long as the housing isant too big. (but again, that would be somthing that would come out during a test drive I spose).

Thanks for all the info guys, Its been most usefull. I fair range in $$$ but I think I have a decent idea now on what would be a fair price.

Sorry, maybe my opening post was badly written. Ive edited it to make it a bit clearer. Im not looking at actually doing this to my car, the car Im looking at purchasing already has this done to it. I was just after opinions from people who had a similar setup and if they thougth it was good or bad (and why). Hope that makes sense

Thanks, but I was not really just after dyno figures.

Im looking at purchasing a car that has a Garrett GT35R on an RB25DET (also has larger injectors, bigger fuel pump, different reg, diferent ECU) This a good or bad combination? Why? Anyone else running this? Is it much more laggy than the stock setup? Thanks

Front is pretty crappy imho. The R34 looks so much better from that angle. Im not that keen on the smooth curve of the rear either, but that could look better in the metal. Side view though.. That is bloody nice Aggressive as all hell and just looks right.

Build date is either 11/98 or 12/98 (Cant remeber which off hand)

Im after a price check on what my R34GT-T is worth. Ive browsed through here, checked out some publications and a dealer and prices seem all over the plaace. (Not sure where this should have been posted so please move if approptiate mods ) Specs are R34GT-T - 5 speed manual - Grade pack - Climate control - Power mirrors / windows - Remote central locking - Alarm system - 2 way factory fitted sunroof - 80,000km - 12 months rego - Apexi Power FC + Hand controller - Splitfire Ignition coils - Trust Front Mount Intercooler - Turbosmart e-Boost - Trust Pod Filter - 3" Turbo back exhaust - Always serviced at Unique Autosports

Maybe interested. Got any specs and pics?

Damm...That was a bargin compsred to the others on there.

Anyone know whats the price range for a Stagea 260RS? Also, any dealers in Sydney that may have them in stock?

Thats the first thing I noticed when I saw the photo in todays paper. Whats the rules fotr them, something like 80kmh max for 50km?

Anyone?

Ok I spent some time playing round with it today. Air Temperature High 20's. Ok, with a lot more playing round and using the graph mode I found: 1st 3 gears can be floored to 7000rpm and the highest reading is usually high 20's to low 30's. 4th can be up to high 40's as ypu close in on 7000rpm, but can spike higher than this if used at lower revs while going up a hill. 5th is weird. Sometimes low 30's but spiked to 166 Seen a couple spikes in 5th in the 90's to 120's as well. According to the 10sec rolling graph these spikes in 5th seem to only last for an instant then drop back to normal. Sometimes the warning light will flash sometimes it wont. Is it normal to just happen for a sec then stop? Should it keep doing it? Could it be a dodgy sensor or some interfearance? So... 1st 4 gears seem ok (under 60) if you dont take it past 7000rpm. 4th and 5th will spike over 60 but a hill is usually involved (espically in the case of 4th) Im taking a stab that the extra effort going up a hill changes the load point for that rpm sector, which is why it can spoke sometimes and not others? So.... If Im right there, I got to work out what load point at what rpm sector it is and adjust those particular ones only? Never tried it. But you guide looks fairly clear. It looks like a two person job for that though. I usually cruise around on .5 bar, only up it to one occasionly. Im getting a different turbo when funds permit. One thing I noticed from the dyno, the stock turbo will hold 1 bar till 4400rpm, then tapers off to 11psi at 7000rpm. Ok, thanks. Never seen the injector duty exceed 78.x %. The AF printout from the dyno starts at 13, then drops to 12 at about 3400rpm then declines gradualy down to 11.6 at 7000rpm.That sound ok? Thanks for all the info so far

Also, question on injector duty cycle. At what figure do you need to consider changing the injectors / fuel pump? Im getting a max of 74.6% on 0.5 bar and 78.1% on 1 bar boost.

Ok, my values are. Standard Boost (0.5 bar) 27 Full Boost (1.0 bar) 68 Both runs done uphill going through 1st 3 gears. Should I be worried about that reading of 68? Also, Im not sure what gear I was in or what rpm I was doing when I hit that 68 as I had my eyes on the road and not the controller. Would a bit of wheel spin and/or hitting the rev restrictor between 1st and 2nd (yeah I know, clumsy me) have influcenced that figure?

ahhh there in lies the flaw in that cunning plan still, Is it bad if the graph is not at 100%?