Bill

So I have a Apexi PFC in my R34 GTT. Tonight I had a couple too many vodkas so I was in the co pilots seat as my wife drove home. Being bored I was playing around with the hand controller (get that smirk off your face) and came accross the knock sensor reading. The bar graph for the knock sensor seems to get 1/3 accross the screen under boost. Is this good or bad? When does the knock sensor start to retard the motor? When it starts moving or when it reaches 100% ?

As of now, nice, mild spring weather

No, not for another 10 days or so. Race is in the 8th of next month.

Im in. Where and when in Bathurst?

Nah, only about 20 min or so... Oh wait....

What can I say but **** Bling Go for funtionality. BTY, Im an experienced VB hacker ( If I do so so myself ) so PM me if need be

HarrietR sent me one. Is this board setup to allow sending PM's to more than one reciepient at a time? If so, change it to 1 only for all new members.

Damm.... I had to goto Sydney that day

Some good things, some not so good things but as yet no detail. At least he whacked the curfuw on the head.

Not unless some people snuck up there at 3am If its the one Im thinking of the yes it is a very nice one.

Forgive me for being very skeptical of this time. When was it done? In the 1991 Tooheys 1000 on the last run for the top 10 shoot-out Mark Skaife put in a sizzling lap of 2min 12.630secs in his GTR — the fastest ever lap by a touring car at Bathurst. I have grave doubts that something putting out 230rwkw can get anywhere close to 10secs slower over that distance. Consider that time was top ten shootout as well. Actual fastest race lap by Skafe that year was 2min 14.50secs in the GTR.

Im a little curious as to why the fuel pump next? Is there anything to indicate that the pump cant handle the load now?

First apologies for those on dialup Ive just had a PFC fitted to my R34 GT-T Yes, I know they are done on 2 different dynos, but "Seat of the pants" wise there is a noticeable difference. I am getting it red dynoed on the one that did the origional one for an accurate comparison though. Mods are -FMIC -Pod filter -3" exhaust, turbo back -E-Boost -Coilpacks -PFC (PFC and coil packs were after the first Dyno results.) Pic below is the before dyno. Boost was about 9psi. Note the horrible hole in the power curve. This seemed to be where the stock computer was bitcching about too much boost. Now we have the after result. The Blue line is 15psi, the red line is 9psi (same as the origional dyno). About 4300rpm you can see the boost just drop away if Im running at 15psi. I would assume that the turbo is too small to flow enougth air after about 4300 to maintain boost? Any Cost effective suggestions? One thing that I noticed is how crappy the stock computer is at maintaining a good air /fuel ratio. Just look at this before PFC dyno. Now compare the after result. Is my before result typical for a stock computer?

thanks guys.

Whats the generally accepted formula for converting RWKW to flywheel KW? My pride and joy did 204.1 kW.

where? Is there a website with info on this?

Make sure that the pipe between the turbo and motor is not loose.

Well if there is no noticeable difference and one is 6c per L cheaper then its an easy decision. Thanks.

Im about to have a PFC fitted to my R34 GTT soon. Naturally, I will have it tuned with the fuel I normally use in it. Ive always used Shell Optimax, but Ive heard some people claim that BP Ultimate will produce more power? Is this true? Is it much if true? Optimax is 6c per L cheaper than Ultimate locally so it would need to be a fair difference to make it worthwhile to switch to me. Any comments from personal experience?

As Duncan said, Power steering.

So the time has come to get some new rubber on the R34 GT-T. Ive done some looking around and wondering if anyone has had experiences with these Tyres, good or bad. Also what about these prices? Good or Bad? 245*40*17 Bridgestone S03 - $370 Kumho KU19 - $268 Yokohama AVS V102 (or AVS100) - $400 Now the car is mostly used as a daily driver and does not get anything in the way of track work. Im leaning towards the Kumho because of the cost.

I would recommend taking it to an Auto electrician before buying a new ECU. Its probably something simple like a short or lose wire somewhere.

Blitz :headshot:

Look what showed up on my door today.

Silly question maybe, but why would different sized tyres bring up the slip light? Do you mean different sized front to rear ?(I could understand it, if they were different diameter), or just different sized from standar all round?