stimps

Ive just found that the RB20DET model has a "FPCM" function and an extra wire from the ecu that does something to the fuel pump. It cuts it back a little in voltage or something a few seconds after returning to idle position. This is definetly around the problem my car has. So it appears to be normal. So why is it making it run wierd is beyond me, and maybe this is why they dropped it on any other skyline models (you wont find it on any R33 or later) its Terminal 104 on the ecu, goes to 0v while driving , at idle raises to 9volts. Wierd hey. I will try the smoke in the intake tract idea, i still am not 100% sure that my intact tract is perfect, but i do notice that when i screws the idle up screw right in so it lets NO air thru, the engine will still idle and the aac valve takes over more letting more air in and if i unplug the electrical plug, boom, she stalls like it should. So no leaks after the throttle valve at least. I am still leaning towards injectors dirty. Starting to think this is just what happens to this system when everything gets old and tired! It just runs poorly. It probably explains why the previous owner just had the throttle switch disabled, so it would never do this and just live with a high idle. Found that at a fast idle (throttle open slightly) its supposed to have 3kg/cm2 fuel pressure and at idle, after 3 seconds, 2.5kg/cm2 which seems right coz that calculates to 35 and 43 psi exactly. which is what ive measured. sucks when you find so many things in your car checks out hey, yet it runs like a dog Think im going to get cracking on doing up a second set of injectors:) thanks for your input PUDZ (lol)

Ok this problem just continues and its a long story now, hope you have time to read, but who knows we might all learn something! Hopefully me When I drive, it seems to hesitate then go, then u slow down, return throttle to idle, it dies back, then u go a bit and it hesitates, then takes off ( and i dont mean boost im talkin about 1000 to 1500 rpm area of the map) its really annoying and actually a pain to drive. you cant go over speed bumps or drive slow without it really buggin the shit outa you. and it stalls at idle, if allowed to settle for a while. Usually the air conditioner load causes this, when u turn it off it doesnt affect it so bad. So i did all the usual checks, Ive got a Oscilloscope and ive put it on the inputs and outputs on the ecu to check everything. Ive checked the AAC solenoid, its working properly, ive checked the battery voltage, its 13.7, and fuel pressue is 33 psi. is that a bit low? Ok so next I try raising the air input a bit by winding out the manual screw and it just takes away some of the work the AAC valve does (by the way i did clean the AAC) but that still doesnt change the problem much. anyway, i thought ok ill just put an extra air solenoid in to bypass the throttle - nope that didnt work! it just doenst want to put in the extra fuel. so then i think "ok maybe its getting air but not registering the air and therefore not putting in extra fuel! " so i put my cro on the air sensor and its seeing the air just fine!!! I also noticed that when the throttle idle position contact switch is made, (idle position) the ecu retards the ignition and pulls back the fuel a bit and allows the engine to come back to a 600rpm idle. If you adjust the idle switch so it is NOT made, the ecu advances the ignition and puts a bit more fuel in and the revs rise. even tho you have not opeend the throttle. the car actually came into my posession like this and its a high idle, it wont idle low, no good! so i dunno...THEN I thought ill check the injectors and i think they could possibly do with a clean and check. anyway have not done that yet, the car's economy on the highway is good, the cruise mixture cycles just fine (on the fuel mixture meter monitor) i have another set of second hand injectors waiting to go to the shop to get ultrasonically cleaned. So anyway I then observe the fuel pressure gauge Its then i notice that when u gently rev the motor it goes up to 44psi, and as you would expect goes up and down as it should with boost/vacumn THEN i notice that it waits 3 seconds at 44psi, then falls back to 33psi!! everytime after the throttle is returned to idle position (idle throttle position switch contact is made) it does this! is this normal? and its identical to the wierd hesitation fault im experiencing when driving!!?? how does it do this? cant do it with the fuel pump! cant see any electrical thing connected to the ecu that would let the ecu take control of the fuel pressure like this! what the heck is goin on? I can tell that this lowering of the fuel pressure is playing up with the mixtures at idle and making it stall, even tho its getting enough air, its not getting enough fuel coz the pressure is too low! so can anyone else tell me what their normal idling pressure is? and if it does this wierd thing? hope ive explained it well enough:)

ALRITE this problem PERSISTS!!! turns out the wiring issue was hiding another problem and its still kinda the same! ill make a new post tho.....

ive had ENOUGH OF THESE FRIKKEN ADS GET RID OF THEM PLEASE!!??

ok, i did a search on USA ebay and couldnt find that guy. Do you have any more info on how i can get myself a new regulator for a alternator from a RB20DET? Mine is low on output. (only 13.7) and the altnator light is on.

get one from nissan? are you insane? are you actually a share holder? LOL brand new alternator from nissan for a R32 is 880 dollars LOL If you want a new one, get one from Ashdown and Ingram, automotive electrical suppliers, they have a aftermarket alternative 120amp, for 365 dollars. I have an R32 and mine was acting wierd, i took it apart, found a blown feedbank diode, (theres 3) causing my output to pulse) So now it works, but the output voltage is still a bit low. So I found a spare one on the forums and im yet to try it. at the moment the car still goes, but the alt light is always on, ever so slightly. You can NOT get replacement regulators for the original unit. If you have a RB30 unit or one from a r33 it will fit , but the wiring might not fit. If you can work out which wire is which and connect them approriately you might get it right. Sometimes its just a matter of making the large wire fit, changing the lug etc. I had a R33 alternator in a VL commodore for years, worked fine. but the alt warning light no longer worked. No big deal.

Ive idled around in 5th gear alot in my R32, never a problem, in fact ive done it in most of my cars. obviously its not the revs that "strip" 5th, its the torque, so when you need to accelerate in 5th at 60km/hr, drop it back to 4th. No brainer really. I agree you dont need to run your turbo time alot, in fact hardly at all. Only if you have been a nut right up to your front door. and if you wanna save more fuel? then get a TEN LED mixture meter and put it right in front of your eyes on the steering column. (mine is there, with a dimmer knob under the dash so i can turn the brightness down at night) and you will be suprised how much you can change your driving to save fuel. You can get just the right amount of throttle to drive up to speed, without putting the mixture into rich, "closed loop" zone, keeping it in open loop, which is WAY economical. While cruising down the highway on cruise control, it will of course be in open loop, saving fuel, which is why highway driving is the best. and yeah give your car a TUNE im forever fiddling with the settings to find the sweet spot and get the right comprimise between performance and economy.

I advise everyone to send their angry comments (dont swear) to this form, let anna know how hated she is. It will only take someone to start revolution i think, someone to start a major show of unhappiness in the government right now, just to get the ball rolling, and they would be running scared. They would never dream of governing in france like they do here, why are we so apathetic!??? they get away with this here coz we LET THEM. whos going to lead a revolution and shut these idiots down?

and what about the extra bandwidth we are paying for and loosing to these friggin ads! We didnt agree to that! as far as most people are concerned, thats stealing!! We never wanted to recieve this rubbish in our bandwidth and pay for it!

can you tell me a little more about the jaycar one? does it actually take over control of the injectors? or modify the incoming signals? how is it programmed? can mixtures be changed while your driving? or is it simply a program and go arrangement?

Yeah i was looking at that a while ago, and read the whole website this morning. Think ill order one, as I dont think ill be able to refrain from biulding up the engine in this car in the future anyway haha Do i have to buy a consult cable?

Im right with you on this also. I was considering picking out the brown filler that is in there that seems to hold it all in. I think my spring is also weak and needs replacing. My idle is pretty crap, ECU just doesnt seem to take control of it very well. I have a lathe. I was even thinking of putting my valve in the lathe and carefully "turning" out the brown stuff.

Id be very interested in that! Let me know:) How do they reprogramme the standard ECU? Do they take out a eprom and put it in a eprom reprogrammer? or do they have a way of connecting a laptop up to the standard ecu and changing the values on the fly?

Just wondering what is the cheapest way to "get inside" the management system of an R32? I just want to change the fuel and ignition maps a little to get it runnign sweeter. Mine is over fueling a bit even tho my Oxy sensor is new, and I think the igntion timing could be better. Apexi fc? or something else?? has anyone tried one of those kits from jaycar that are meant to adjust the ecu's closed loop mixtures?

Yes I have a R32 GTST and Id like to renew my door seals top and bottom also. I have removed mine and applied a layer of double sided tape to "biuld up" the layer under the seal and put the seal back in, it helped a bit and makes the door feel much better when closing and no leaks, but id like new seals. Does anyone have an updated info on where you can get these at a reasonable price? Rang Nissan a month ago and they wanted 990 dollars for the four peices and when I said how much I was prepared to pay, he was offended!!! where does nissan get off on parts pricing? lol. He said he last sold one in 2007 and I said "erm, do you ever wonder why? does it really COST that to make? " *shakes head*

From experience, all these RB engines suffer from this as the mamagement system wasnt designed that well for hotter climates and dont allow for "ageing" of the parts. Particularly the AAC valve clogs up and in hindsite Nissan should have made this valve a bit bigger so it takes over more "control" of the idle. This is why a good clean of this valve helps. I have installed a small bypass valve into mine connected to the air conditioner compressor clutch, so when the extra load is on (air con running) which sometimes stalls the engine on a hot day at the traffic lights, the extra air going in helps pick up the idle speed. A small solenoid valve with 1/4 inch air lines does the trick. wire it up in parrallel with the air con clutch wire. The IAC valve on most engines seems to have stopped working, not sure why, but i just closed mine off and screw out the idle adjust screw a bit to compensate, means i have a slightly higher idle than usual, but the ecu compensates for this with the AAC valve slightly and with this setup, it usually hasnt a issue. Its just a bit of a pain with these engines the idle setup, not the best. In later models they made the ecu use advance and retard idle control a bit more aggressive to take more control and prevent stalling. If you have a good look at a unmodified R34 engine you will notice how much better they idle. The early R32 2 litre engines were the worst ones for this problem. You just have to fiddle with them a bit and maybe put up with a bit higher than normal idle and you can live with it!

Kudos motorsport, Sell ones for R32 and I think R33 for 77 dollars plus post. They even sell the tool that makes it SO much easier, for 50 bux. Ive put my new one in and it is running better.

Ive read the owners manual, gee its tough in that section, but ive found so many other things wrong and fixed them, but this problem doesnt go away. What happens is when i start on a cold morning, no problems, it starts and idles fine. Engine check light (or cat converter overtemp light as its properly known as) does not come on. Then i pull out and drive off and as soon as the revs biuld up to 3k or so, and a little boost comes on, this light starts flashing randomly on and off along with the light on the side of the ECU. (I have modified the ECU so I can access and see the light and dial switch on the ECU without removing it. ) I can keep driving, power seems down a bit, response is terrible, with the light flashing, its really annoying of course. but it will still boost and drive ok. Then I pull over and shut it down, wait a second or two, restart (now with a warm engine) and it goes fine. No issues and heaps of power and response as it should. Any clues anyone? Really hoping to bump into some sort of Nissan R32 Guru on here to pick his brains! cheers thanks for your time

Crossed wires somewhere dude. Something fishy has been done somewhere thats for sure!

thanks to those who replied. Car is now fixed:) (but it was faulty wiring:)

Already found the fault. I had already cleaned the ACC valve, and found a faulty IAC valve, thats a seperate issue. the problem was, some git owner before me, has extented the AIR flow sensor wiring, for no reason !?? and had just twisted and taped the wires together, - NO SOLDERING!! *shakes head* no wonder it was playing up lol

mmmmm this is indeed quite nice. I have been away from RB engines for a bit, but after having picked up an R32 and gotten the old bug back to up the power, and seeing this.....im back !

nope, buggered again LOL now i want one again, anyone have one!!???? cheers

theres no need to do them up very tight, just nice and firm, put a little alloy antisieze or copper antisieze on them too if you can (just a little) so they wont jamn up next time you take them out. I gapped mine at 0.7mm i found it to be even better than 0.8mm. Make sure your coils are CLEAN and dry, use metho spirits to clean them, and if they have any carbon tracks or cracks, you can try taping them up insulation tape to get them working again, or just replace them. To see which one is misfiring, have the engine idling with the cover off. (just tie the ignition module to the side with cable ties and plug it all back together) and one by one unplug and replug in each coil. when you notice one that DOES NOT change the engine rpm, THATS the one that is failing to fire. If its just breaking down at high revs...then its a bit harder to find the problem. Many nights have been spent swapping and trying coils to see which one was slightly faulty. Sometimes its better to just cough up the 600 bux and buy a new set of spitfire coils if a intermitten problem is hard to get rid off. Important thing, do NOT be tempted to spray the area with inox or wd 40 in humid climates. It just gives somewhere for carbon tracking to form, leading to cracked and blacked coils, which gives you missfired. clean the coils with CO cleaner or metho and a CLEAN rag. and yer, dont drop a bolt down the hole lol

Nissan. I got quoted 490 bux to replace all four peices on my R32, (bottom and top bit, this does both the windows and doors ) on both sides of the car, and at the end of the day, dont you want a brand new one? a second hand one will just shut loose/fail to seal. A new set will make the doors close nicely again, with a proper new car sounding "thud!" Ive ordered a set for my R32.