stimps

That turbo has ingested something, but if it still goes, then keep using it, unless you really want to upgrade. These turbos are generally, not very servicable or rebiuldable. But they are quite tuff. It could keep working fine for years to come. Look at it this way, you only found the damage, coz you looked....you didnt hear any strange noises or see oil or anything. You can if you want, buy a new comp wheel and get it fitted and balanced, but Personally I woudlnt bother, the time and money isnt worth the problem if the wheel fails. I doubt you would notice the drop in power at all. I have been playing (that should read, trying to fix:P) a couple of rb25det turbos, and have found the following info.... If you break the seal plate, you can't get a new one (oh no!) If you own a lathe, you can make a new one (doing that now actually) The turbine is not able to be serperated from the shaft, and is balanced as a single unit The comp wheel is balance as a single unit, and therefore, you can generally swap wheels with not too much hassle (if you dont balance them, you will get a shorter turbo life, but generally, you will get away with it) IF you pull apart totally the bearings, (they are not captive bearings) the balls will fall out and roll across the floor, into the drain, cracks in the concrete etc etc, bye bye turbo.... If you can feel shaft play sideways or end ways, the bearings are worn, but if your lucky, you can still have some more room to tap in the centre peice of the comp wheel side bearing (under that damn seal plate im afraid, hard to take them out without breaking them) and get rid of that play, and get another 100 000 kays out of a unit. Worn bearings and side play and end play in the shaft leads to misalignment of the seals, which of course leads to oil leaks, smoke, etc....

The stalling at trailing throttle with warm motor on the rb25det is a common problem with the 2.5 litre square bore 6. There are many many reasons, and I have been plauged with it since day one. I have a rb25 with a Haltech E6K and used to do it always unless i keep things fine tuned. THere are several things you can try. Obviously the earthing of the fuel pump will work, as it will keep the fuel pressure constant, and keep your fuel mixtures good at idle. If you have aftermarket managment, try leaning off the mixtures around 10% at the 0 - 500rpm map. Leaning off helps keep the revs up. Leaning off too much will cause it to hunt tho, so it takes some fiddling to get right. Remember that you must do this tuning with the engine warm. NOT COLD. or you will have to reset the cold start map again. ALso try opening the base idle screw a tad, raise the idle to 900 - 1100 rpm. All rb motors seem to like a high idle, guess this is why they are called a RB "racing block" Some people even raise the advance at the 0 - 500rpm map to help keep the power and revs up in this area of the map. typically, engines have a slightly rich mixture at idle to help keep the idle stable, and keep it from hunting. another thing you can try is turn off decel cutoff. This turns off the fuel on deceleration, and sometimes doenst kick back in untill its too late, and the engine has stalled. its all just a fine balance really between fuel, revs, and air, and you have to find that balance. Also, if you have a BOV that leaks at idle, you can get this problem. Vacumn causing extra air to be sucked into the manifold throught the BOV can lean out the mixture too much and cause instability and stalling. I used to raise the base idle screw just a tad (so it would idle at 800rpm) adjust the mixture so its ever so SLIGHTLY richer than sticiometric, raise the spark advance a little more than even at the 0 - 500 mark, and leave the decel cutoff feature disabled and it would have no problems. Of course, you loose out on economy just a little bit, but there are some small sacrifices you simply have to make sometimes in order to get a very well behaved engine. These engines even in stock form have a very high Volumetric effeciency, so when they are idling around 600-700 rpm, they are practicly idling in a vacumn. Show me anyone that has a modified rb25 that idles pefectly like a brand new stock one, and ill show you someone who can fine tune.

*sigh* yet again more proof that as long as the old and fudy poeple run this place the more they are going to **** us over. Innocent or giulty. Don't you just love the way the cops get out, make a scene, hand on gun etc, for a typical 15k over traffic infringment? its just farcical. Sad isnt it? Soon we are all going to take some crazy action against them. I hope some of these old "wise" poeple get whats coming to them. The general public on average, think they are going to far, and we certainly are, even those of us who NEVER break any road rules, still get hassled and occosionally fined for crap! And what is needed, is proper representation in government, of the young persons mind and point of view...but like that is ever going to happen. Yes the majority of the poeple that rule this place, (should I say Dictate....did someone say democratic .....*cough*BULLSHTIT*cough*) dont like aggresive drivers, be them safe or not. Id even go as far to say the older people even hate driving!! I say to them, "THEN GET OFF THE ****IGN ROAD AND STOP ****ING IT UP FOR THE REST OF US" end of rant/

excellent! If its a RB25det turbo, done deal! Ring me, 0408 062 867 and we will arrange a time for me to come pick it up. cheers.

I need a dead stock turbo. I really just need the seal plate out of it (the one with the 0 ring on it.) anyone?

yeah i saw that....niiiice! Reason i put this in this column is coz no one ever looks in the wanted section.

looking for a quick R33, possibly one that does 12's which has already had all work done, perhaps a larger HKS or similar turbo. I just missed out on one that was a bargain, and im still keen on something. Just looking at this stage so if you have one you wish to sell run it past me. Im prepared to pay up to 25k for the right car. Series 1 or 2.

anyone got a T28 stock turbo (r33 GTST) lying around? I have a twin setup and one got a oil leak, which is just too hard or expensive to fix, just easier to get another turbo. cheers. oh and email me at [email protected]

such as area under the curve. If you dynoed both stock cars, I think the GTR would show more usable power area under the torque curve which in turns makes the car faster. Even tho both cars may have the same peak power output. The GTR has broader power delivery due to more turbo, and the cam profile is slightly more agressive. Correct me if im wrong but I think this is mostly the case. Sydneykid : the only brand name parts I have installed are a malpassi fuel regulator, and Haltech E6k. I bought the plenum, and modified it slightly. Everything else is more or less other stock parts modified or home made (pipework etc) If you wanted to include them, I guess you could add a Link Lambdameter and E boost boost controller to the list too.

Yeah, server problems, beyond my control......bloody annoying isnt it.

I didnt polish the exhaust manifolds much, too hard to reach some places and you cant really see it under the turbos and everything anyway.... I removed the head studs and used new high tensile bolts (plenty of antisieze too:P) Inside diameter of the pipes is the same as the outlets on the head. No port matching was needed:) I did a big write up on polishing on www.calaisturbo.com just look for the editorials.

yeah, if you just go about it sensibly, research a bit to make sure your doing it right, and take the time to go and get the bits you need, its always better to do it yourself than pay someome else. Then if anything happens, you can say "oh yeah its coz of this..." or "shit i forgot that! no worries i can fix it" etc..

10psi isnt full boost its sorta unknown yet as Im still tuning and setting up this motor (never seem to get time to do much with a house and going away all the friggin time.....) Sydneykid..... holey shit man you just blew me out of the water with that comment...the time spent? ermmmm..well im an industrial electrician and i get around 20 bux an hour....and i put in around a years work of my free time (and some of my works time too hehehe) and yeah if you put a figure on it...yeah id say about a years wages.......SHIIIIT. I simply went the twin turbo way because it meant bigger turbo power for basically bugger all money. Had a spare turbo, did some welding..wallah. Took me around 3 weeks to construct the exhuast manifolds the turbos sit on...had to reweld them 3 times to get the turbos to sit just right (and fit in the engine bay) and another two weeks to get the dump pipes finished. Took weeks to do all the polishing and about a month of playing around to get the extra six injectors in there right. Have frigged around with the intake manifold and plenum so much, put it on and taken it off like a dozen times to get that right. Yeah, when you look at it like that....its expensive. But its the way I like to do things. I just cant justify handing over great wads of cash to someone else when I can take my time and do it all myself. Its also neat to say "i did" when someone asks who biult it all. Ive welded all the stainless tank shape things (surge tank, radaitor top resivior tank, steering resivoir tank ) and now i get all my freinds asking me to make stuff for them. And not to mention all the hours I put into welding up the cooler piping, and intake air pipes to the air filters. Home made alloy BOV at the bottm left of that piccy too I made around 2 years ago.

Rant rant *$*#ing rant...... I never set out to beat a GTR, even tho my car is already quicker than a stock GTR, but lets face, stock is STOCK...and bloody slow. Yes I made those twin manifolds myself, and the whole reason why i biult this car, is to make a street sleeper....CHEAP. I had a spare T28 sitting around (cheap) Had some tools and time and access to a quality TIG machine. Cost of engine...around 3k. other bits, intake manifold, 600ish... Extra injectors.....free (old stock VL ones from wrecker mate) Extra fuel rail...free, (home made) New polished fuel surge tank... free (home made) Extra fuel pump..free (again wrecker mate) polishing...my time...free (but dont ask for it:P) Twin 2 inch 90 deg dump pipes made out of shed 10 steel pipe and welded into one 3 inch exhaust pipe..back into existing 3 inch system... $40 for the steel Stainless bends and pipe for the manifolds, $90 from midway metals gold coast E6k $1800 from a pre existing biuldup thats about it.....oh and a new carbotics race clutch. Car goes unreal, gets boost (considerable boost 12 to 15psi) at prob a bit over 3500 (that will be better when the wastegates are better fitted and set up properly, getting some wastegate creep me thinks.) And ive allow it to run 19psi lately. Seems to just love it, no signs of any problems as yet. Only problem im having is the boost climbs slowly from 15psi at 4000rpm or so to its peak of 19psi at 7500rpm (redline 7800) which is more of a gate setup problem than anything else. I set the E boost to 16 and it just runs 13. Quite frustrating but im working on it. I shit you not it would easily rip off a 12 something the way it sits, but of course im doing heaps more refineing and tuning and sorting out before i go near the track. and sorry for the inacurate information before...can we drop it now PLEASE. Get some maturity those of you who just turn into keyboard warriors and rant off at someone elses mistakes. Its life.

Thats nice. Me likes.

Thanks guys. I have looked at a couple and now a different problem on the car has come up so for now im going to put the cash elsewhere, but If i change my mind, ill get back to yas. cheers.

well bloody close the post then.

well...is it bloody sold or not?

yup

pix please [email protected]

post a pic of the cooler!!!

send us pix of that cooler and price.

very interested buyer for that cooler. Can you email me at [email protected] I am looking at a few others too and have the cash ready to go.

Im looking to upgrade my intercooler for my long serving VL. It needs to be a bit bigger than this one.... and have at least 3 inch outlets. Shiney or not does not matter. anyone here that can help me? cheers

im using a Haltech E6K. Very happy with it.