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bump! Anyone in NSW / Western Sydney

also will trade for R33/R34 GT-R wheels

SELLING A VERY CLEAN LOOKED AFTER SET OF RAYS NISMO LMGT2 IN WHITE TO SUIT ANY NISSAN . NOT SURE OF THE OFFSET BUT AROUND 8MM SPACERS NEEDED FOR FRONT ON GTST . THEY WHEELS WERE MACHINED AND STRAIGHTEND BY OLD OWNER AND I POLISHED THE WHEELS AND LIPS . IM LOOKING AT $1,600 WITH TYRES ONLY GENUINE INTERST IN THESE WHEELS AS I HAVE REALLY LOOKED AFTER THEM

bump

NEED CEFIRO DOOR THATS PEARL WHITE OR ANY COLOUR '' DRIVERS DOOR'' GOT REVERSED INTO NEEDS TO BE IN SYDNEY AREA PLEASE HELP . SORRY FOR CAPS ON MY GAY PHONE HAH

doesnt say what engine they are for and how many K's they had , and there are no pictures either ?

i just purchased some DENSO 19550-2240 and was wondering if they will be enough for an RB25 putting out around 300-350RWKW With a Walbro 255 and SARD FPR , running on PowerFC Pro .. Just wanted to know if anyone else are running these injectors and do they have any issues with duty cycle at those power levels ? I did search , but i couldnt find anything?

this is incorrect as there is 3 bolts that you have to drill in boot lid

anyone know this ?

hey guys and girls , before i start i'm going to say i just searched for 20 mins and i must be blind , but everyone has answered this WRONG .. I just bought a genuine GTR wing , and i know its genuine coz i pulled it off a crashed one just around 1 hour ago lol .. Now only realising as i went out to look at mind everything seems like it will fit BUT there are 3 screws in the centre lower wing lip thingo under the main blade that bolts to the boot top .. Now i don't know if every gtr has this , being a vspec but what is best way at drilling it and does anyone have any personal info about fitting one

well i'm getting everything done , Forged Rods + Pistons and ACL bearings all round . N1 Oil pump + N1 water pump and full head work done .. so im expecting around 300rwkw+ with the turbo + Fuel setup that i have .. I give the car alot of hell , hence why my last motor blew up due to seized bearing or whatever made my rod fly out the side of block .. I just dont wanna have any oil issues with the car and was wondering is the Spool Hi Energy sump too much for what im doing and does it really help with the rb25 oil issues .. also i am fitting the tomei oil oriphis or watever they are called into the head

hey guys im getting my motor build for around 300rwkw and i am wondering if i need a bigger sump for my car

well 2 builders i just rang want $10,000+ on just motor

does anyone know where i can get an Engine Rebuilt in NSW by someone who knows what they are doing ? I was thinking doing RB30DET with RB25 Head on it .. I Already have block but i cant find anyone who can do it all for me that is cheap , does anyone know anywhere?

As title says: RB25DET ApeXi Power FC (PRO) For Nissan R33 GTS25t This unit is near new condition and the hand controller is in EXCELLENT condition , Buttons are nice to push and havnt lost their markings This ECU is the PRO version , which is alot different then the standard PowerFC . It has a few more tuning options plus * Launce Control Interface - Selectable Launce RPM with Hard Cut limiter * IGNITION CUT - instead of cutting fuel at redline it will cut ignition , which will stop leaning out at high RPM and a nice flame As all of you know these ecus are hard to come by (Ap Engineering) and i only recenlty paid $2000 for this unit so i will be starting at: $1,800 PICKUP ONLY in NSW WESTERN SYDNEY AREA I am not going to take offers lower then this , Only reason im selling WHICH I DONT want to is because nobody can tell me this computer will work with my RB30DET Setup that im going to run with an RB26 head

so i take it no body on this forum has any idea about what im talking about? Someone must have covered this somewhere come on guys

Hey guys in process of getting my R33 S2 built . I through a rod into the side of block and now im going RB30DET . I just got offered an RB26DETT Head for really cheap with complete Cams/Gears and everything including the throttlebody. If i do purchase this , will it mate up with my Apexi Power FC (RB251PRO) Pro Version for R33 GTS25t?? Can anyone here help me out before i go and buy this head?

what car is this out of? VL or R31 and how much

how about you do a search under the description i have wrote? you wont find shit! i just want my freakin car to work and my blow off valve was blocked off in the test and did the same thing , i just tried my stock one and it is the same so its not that

Also! on your powerFC's? whoever has them in ur REV/IDLE setting on Power FC what is ur Fuel Cut under Closed Throttle set at? should be 3RD RPM setting from the bottom up?

I already moved that thing!! where should it be? it doesnt state it in the manual??? and i already said i cleaned the AAC Valve 2 times? and i mean really cleaned it with freakin cotton wool buds and carby clean+ compressed air! .. what else can contribute?

well my mates skyline has 3" exhaust cat back , Boost set at 11PSI with a SAFC2 and he made 212kw@11psi so yeah i say you should get around that .. also car was tuned at Hitman in penrith

the last few months i've had nothing but problems with my R33 . Right now i've got this stupid idle issue when the car is hot, not when its cold. What the car does is it starts fine and revs and a nice steady rate, but as soon as you blip the throttle anywhere past 3000rpm the revs go under 500 to around 0 then bounce up to 500 then back to 0 sounding like a rotory and pissing black smoke trying to save stalling then it goes back to normal. Ive cleaned my AAC Valve 2 times with good carby cleaner , new gasket for the AAC valve , New Plenum gasket , Ive cleaned the throttle body and i've positioned the TPS to what is says in Nissan RB25 workshop manual which is 0.40v. I've got a brand new Bosch 02 genuine and just bout done everything . I've searched every forum and NOBODY is having the same issues! .. I've adjusted idle with the gay TPS unplugged like it says in idle and im running PowerFC so i cant adjust it on the ECU . NOW the only way to stop the rev hunting issue when i rev the car is to adjust that scew thingo that pushed the Butterfly open or closed on the throttle body , so my car revs at 1500RPM and eveything is fine! it revs nice and comes straight back and sits on the rev and doesnt drop! . The car even feels better to drive as it doesnt stall when i boost 1st gear and then back to neutral .. But the only issue i dont want my freakin car to idle at 1500!!! i want it to idle at 750RPM at the most.. Not one mechanical workshop knows what im talking about and probably half you guys wont but there must be a solution before i run this car off the cliff and sell the scrap

we sell the 3a Racing ones at Autobarn in penrith .. actually i just recieved 3 yesterday .. they also look really good for how much they are .. And in tests actually are better then the K+N and a bonus because they dont have shit oil that stuffs around with ur hotwire AFM! .. They are like $48 from memory compared to $99 K+N ones . And i sell pod filters everyday

hey guys i have fixed my problem all together .. I purchased a 45mm aluminium radiator from autobarn . The brand is autotecnica and it is very well made .. And the price was pretty good aswell only 200 for me as i work there .. I flushed the system until the water that came out was as clean as it went in .. I only used demineralised water aswell .. Then i put new radiator in keeping original shroud , and it only took like 10 mins .. Put new nulon RED coolant in with water .. Checked my coolants Mv to make sure i had no electrolises .. Which i didn't and car runs amazing now .. Builds up pressure nice and i don't see a temperature over 85*c on hot day giving it some and on cool nights just cruising around i see around 78-80* at most ..