DanShirts

I think my first post was a little confusing. I didnt use an RB30 block. I bent some valves. Rather than replace the valves, I replaced the entire head with one that I was saving for a different build.

It is a stock R32 RB26 block. The manifolds are R32. I have replace the head, cams, and cas with parts from an R34 RB26. The head was rebuilt by a very experienced head builder. I rewired the cas plug to suit the R34 cas. I used a new oem head gasket. I also put in head studs while the head was off. It's probably not relevant, but I also has an R34 crank, oil pump, and turbos installed. These upgrades were done a few years ago, and shouldn't have any effect. I think that covers everything!

Sorry! I left out an important detail! Its an R32 GTR stock RB26.

Here is the back story: I had the timing belt tensioner stud break while the engine was running. My engine had a few bent valves as a result. I had a freshly rebuilt R34 head sitting on the shelf that I was saving for an RB30 build. It found its way into my R32. I used the R34 cams and swapped the R34 cas too. The problem: It only makes about 1/2 the boost that it should. It also sounds odd. It sounds like the timing is wrong. Is there a difference between the R32 and R34 timing marks? Do I need to remap for the R34 head and cams? Or something else?

I had a 040 in mine. It ran fine, but it was loud. I got mine down to about 10mm off the bottom of the tank. I switched to a walbro because the noise was driving me crazy. I dont know if it made any change, but I pulled the plastic baffle out of mine when I switched to the walbro.

hmm.. my auto door locks dont work and it beeps at 105.

ebay

^Its not THAT useful, because it only shows wire colors, but it was a great help to me when I was tracking down the aircon and AFM wiring.

Hah! found it! It's on this forum. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/A3...ng-t163121.html

The r32 loom wont be a perfect fit. You may have to repin the connector that goes to the lower engine harness (the one that has the aircon wiring on it). My A31 and R32 have different oil pressure senders, that may be a problem too. There might be other problems, but it shouldnt be difficult.

They are not the same. I had an A31 ecu pinout.. but I cant seem to find it now. Ill post it if I find it. You can try to re-pin the ecu connector on A31 loom. Or you can try using a R32 loom. My ceffy is using an R32 loom.

Wow, I didnt know Nissan made a LHD R34. Its not a conversion is it? Do you know what people would pay for that in the USA?

Thanks for the pics and information! I'll have to look for a stagea dash.

^^ pics wanted +1

It's been a while since I've posted about my car. I blew my stock motor. So I bought a cheap 2nd (or 3rd (or 4th)) hand motor. The replacement rb20 came with Tomei cams and a rb25 turbo. I decided that rb20 just isn't giving me enough. So I found a new toy that I will be dropping in: (sorry for the grainy pic)

Do you have pics of an r33 dash in a cef? I'm curious to see exactly how bad it fits..

Here are some pics of r32 dashes in a31s. You can see how the door cards and pillars fit. (or don't fit.) I found the pics on these websites: http://lanz-cars.blogspot.com/2008/12/parts-for-sell.html http://www.carigold.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?t=40912 http://www.carigold.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?t=40912

Has anyone here done a cluster conversion? Or the electric speedo conversion? I'm very keen to do a r33 dash & cluster.

+1 bad rings Do a compression test, you will have low compression on at least one cylinder. Or just zip tie your dip stick down.

Why guess? You have the part number. It's an AT ECU for R33 RB25DET.

I'm using a GTR pump in mine right now. It has a rego on the top of the pump, not on the cradle. I dont think you have a GTR Cradle. In R32/R33 GTRs (all GTRs?) the cradle is not part of the lid/sender assembly, it is mounted to the bottom of the tank. Be careful if you use hose clamps to attach the pump to the cradle. I think I tightened mine too tight and squeezed/ruined the pump. It started whining, so I tightened it, and it got worse.

Are you sure youre loosening them? The aircon tensioner pulley should move UP as you loosen it. You might even want to take the bolt all the way out. The PS pump should rotate down and towards the motor. You may have to loosen the mounting bolts and push/pry on it to get it to move. My dad told me this once: Somehow someone put that belt. You should be able to get it off.

S13 is no good. It's about 6cm too long and fouls on the bottom of the tank. I'm going to try to cut/weld mine to fit, but it will be a few weeks before I get around to it. A32,B14,B15,D22,N15,etc all have the same bolt pattern for the lid, maybe one of those would be a closer fit...?

I still haven't done mine. But here are some s13 cradle pics. Looks the same except the float position. It might foul on the tank baffles. Sorry for the imperial measurements, people keep stealing my metric tools. 9" is about 23 cm.

That's the sensor for the low fuel indicator. The pump will run with only the power and earth wires that go to the pump itself.