DanShirts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wi...ow-t289976.html

I took them to a machine shop. I measured wrong.. they are 8.5mm lift. Stock is 7.80 mm lift 240 duration. Mine are 8.5 mm lift 256 duration. So it looks like I have Tomei poncams (or copies). Factory cam specs: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html Tomei RB20 cam specs: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...4_cam_RB20.html

My cams have 8.25 mm lift. I think that is stock lift. Can someone verify that?

My r32 stalls like that once or twice a month... I still haven't figured it out. No codes, it just dies. Some times it will start up and be fine, others I have to sit and wait 30-40 minutes before it will start again. Not sure if it's related, but I can't get the timing lower than +25 even with the cas all the way ccw. New fuel pump, new fuel filter, cleaned injectors, new fuel pressure reg, new ignitor, new battery, new spark plugs, borrowed coils from another car, new ignition loom, new (used) cas, new (used) ECU, new battery leads, pulled some extra earth leads, tested alternator, cleaned every electric connector on the car, clean & resoldered afms, cleaned aac, compression tested, boost leak tested, tested almost every wire in the loom. Nothing helps. I'm so frustrated with it that I'm going to sell it next month if I don't get fix it. Sorry to rant in your thread! I hope you have better luck than me!

I bought a second hand rb20. The seller says it has "264 pon cams" in it. But they look like stock cams to me. They don't have any casting numbers, or stamps, or serial numbers, or anything. So I went and opened up my friends rb20 that I KNOW has aftermarket cams. His look like stock cams too, no markings at all. How can I tell what I have?

+1 Also, see if there is are codes, and check timing.

My intermittent misfire has gotten worse this week. So I set out to diagnose it last night. The service manual shows the ECU pins 34/35 (W/O) going to the front AFM and pins 26/27 (WR/Bk) going to rear AFM. My car is reversed from that. 34/35 go to the rear and 26/27 go to the front. The loom on the AFM side isn't long enough to switch them.. Is my loom wrong? Is it a typo in the service manual? Would the reverse AFMs cause a horrible misfire?

Changed the clutch in my r32 gtr last week. I also changed all the fluid while I was under it. All went well, except when I tried to bleed the attesa. Turned the key on, disconnect the wire behind the kick panel, open bleed nipple. And the pump doesn't start. I have an "Extreme TSC", would that cause a problem?

It's an 89, should be push. I did my rb20 2 weeks ago. How much more difficult is the AWD tranny to pull?

I did some research. Exedy uses same part number for 8/89-2/93 RB26 and R32/R33 RB20/RB25. I bought the 25 clutch. Hopefully it fits.

Steering is normal. As far as I can tell, everything is good, aside from the tick.

After a good run, I noticed that the power steering line that runs up by the radiator was making a ticking noise. Also, the line would shake a bit as it ticked. It doesn't do it all the time. Only while the car is stopped, engine is running, and after running it hard. I don't really understand the hicas/power steering system in the R32 GT-R, can anyone think of why it would do this?

I'm using an HE351 on my RB20. With a good tune and 20psi it made 320hp at the wheels. With an overly aggressive tune it made 360hp and a bad cylinder.

My GTR needs a new clutch and I can get a great deal on an rb25 clutch. I read somewhere that the rb25 and early rb26 (push) clutches will interchange. Can someone confirm that before I buy?

I used a j30 afm on an r33 rb25 without a remap. What are the last 3 numbers on the label? n60? n62? vg30 n/a = n60 = no remap vg30 tt = n62 = need remap

I've always thought that the Maxima vg30 and rb20/25 afms flow the same. Check the part numbers before you pay for a new one.

Have you shipped big stuff? Like... motors? I really want to build an RB30. =)

What size are they? (OR do you have a US part number?) I'm sure I can find some local, but I don't know what size. And I don't feel like doing the buy/return cycle to find some that fit.

Some things to add: Fuel tank seal (really big o-ring) = s13/s14/a32 and more. Brake lines = s13/s14 Front wheel bearing = s13 A32 tie rod ends fit, but are not the same. S13, s14, r32, or z32 will NOT fit. I happened to have one of each in the shop at the time.

I've used an RB25 loom on my RB26. You won't be able to put the cover because the ignitor connector is in a different position.

Does anyone know open/close lengths and lift weight? I don't have a Monroe's anywhere nearby and I want to buy some. How does the A32 compare?

How about S14 or S15?

I'm using s13 lcas with s14 ball joints and a32 tierod ends. I need to find a better ends though. I break one about once a month drifting.

White -> Green/White Black -> Green/Black and White -> Red/White Black -> Red/Black Has anyone else tried to fix the amp? I resoldered all the joints on the board, but it still doesn't wind up. Maybe the motor is bad and draws too much current for the amp?

I used 3M spray adhesive. It fell off after a few months. So I peeled mine off completely.