horrace

1997 STAGEA RS Four Rego till 23/01/2018 RB25 turboAUTOAWD245,000 kmsFull leather interiorElectric seatsTwin SunroofsTop of the line Autowatch alarm/immobiliser remote central lockingR32 GTS WheelsHas been my daily for 7 years and drives nicelyNow have a 4WD so no longer neededThe GoodOwned since 85,000 kmsTiming belt and idler/tensioner done at 100,000 kms and 200,000 kmsNew water pump done at 200,000 kmsNew ancillary belts at 200,000Fuel filter done at 200,000 kmsNew rocker cover gaskets at 200,000 kmsServiced with Nulon 10-40 every 5000kms the entire time I have owned itGearbox fluid changes with castrol transmax Z at 100,000kms and 200,000kms Aftermarket trans coolerNew brake pads front and rearProfessional tintGood tyresQuality stereo with amp and subwoofer and aftermarket speakers in doorsRear cargo blindThe not so goodHeater core needs replacing (heater does not work)Paint is average in placesNeeds a little throttle to start from cold then runs as normal from there, it has been this way for the entire 160,00 kms I have owned it $3500NegotiableNot interested swaps thanks

Car is a 1997 S1 RSFOUR and after reading though many pages here and not finding much, what is out there for someone like me who is not interested in a brake upgrade but I need new disks? From what I can see new replacements either don't existor are hens teeth. S2 look like they are possible to get but differ from S1. Sorry for posting a possibly obvious question but help would be great as mine are getting towards rice crackers! Cheers!

Replaced negative terminal and problems solved!No pausing on start up either! Nailed it zoomzoom

I will replace them then as they are cheap! Thanks for the help mate

To make things more confusing it drove flawlessly this morning on my 30 minute commute

Good morning fellows Car is 1997 Stagea 208000 ODO km's more likely 300000 km's Over the last year my car has been starting weird but i put it down to a sticky starter solenoid, i turn the key to start it would take a few on and offs or just hold it in start and after a few or 10-15 seconds it would fire. Last week the starter began struggling to start the car, it had a VL RB30 one in it that was cheap (now 100000km's old) so i chucked i second hand RB25 one in it and still had the same problems. A new battery seems to have fixed the starting problems as it now starts consistently strongly all the time (but still with the pause of varying seconds before it fires). Now i'm having a problem where the power will cut out while driving first to the stereo and clock. Intermittently it will run rough, the clock goes dim, stereo goes off and comes back on again without either resetting their presets. I can make the stereo and clock happen regularly by driving around and turning my headlights on and off, after about 10 times the stereo cuts out as i think that's the first thing to respond to the drop in power. The rough running and engine shutting down i cant replicate just the clock and stereo. After going round the block doing this i went to lock the car with the remote central locking and it wouldn't so chucked the key in the ignition and no power, took the battery leads off to inspect and put them back on and back to normal power and strong start. The battery is new so tests fine with the multi meter at 12.9 Volts Alternator tests at 13.8 - 13.9 with running so going by google that is fairly normal There is a small crack up to half way in the negative terminal clamp for the battery unsure if significant? i wrapped it in foil to cover the crack (LOL) and it has made no difference I was thinking it could be the ignition barrel as i'm driving when the engine cuts out, the stereo cuts out along with the digital clock in the middle of the dash. All the accessory lights are then on obviously because the engine has shut off and the key is still sitting in accessory. The only reason i doubt this is the power cutting out while the car is stationary and off, also if i jiggle the key (fairly violently) when it's running i cant get it to do anything. I did the timing belt & water pump 2000k's ago and when it's running normally it runs great, smooth, good power etc (intermittent miss at idle never been a problem though?). I have no idea when it comes to electrics so hopefully someone here can point out my stupidity or it's auto leccy and ass rapage time! Thanks in advance

Ben c34 your inbox is full, where you located? I'm keen if they are in good nick ie no leaks

Cheers for the pm but I'm only after rear replacement shocks, it's a stocker now so I'm not spending more than I have to and I want to go new

Hey fellas trawled the thread but just confirming, I'm after rear shocks for my 97 rs4. Just standard shocks not looking to go coil overs, I see r33 rear shocks fit but are not really recommended. Are there any stagea specific replacement rear shocks about? I'm having no luck! Cheers

Piece Of copper pipe did the trick No funny angles needed like I thought, here's to winter without a heater!

Yeah I guessed as much any idea what with? I was thinking a deep socket for now lol

Hey guys my c34 overheated as it pumped all it's coolant into the passenger foot well, it's stuck at a servo atm can anybody help me out with how to bypass the core so I can get it home? I

Good to know! Thats Terrible Service

I may be keen for that I'll keep it in mind, after more diagnosing it doesn't appear to be the gearbox but an intermittent rough running issue, thing is driving me nuts I can't narrow it down!

Hi guys my stageas auto box is slipping intermitently when it enters overdrive on th e freeway, Any recommended auto tranny Workshops for me to take it too? Preferably SOR but yeah just wondering if anyone has used a tranny shop for their skyline with success (Same box as a S1 R33)