azzafreddy

lol yeah it probably makes great entertainment for all you car fanatics but i clearly stated that i made a mistake by getting this done, you learn from your mistakes and move on, besides i didnt do this myself so no one can put the lame arse mechanic job on my back im just the lame arse one who paid someone to do it.. and im now reversing the mistake by getting it all put back togethor, thanks SECURITY & JonnoHR31 and everyone else who helped out, ill check it out and post some pics when its all done, by the way i should be able to get the yellow rubber tubing from most car places yeah? like auto barn?

yeah ive been thinking about that, i just want to do it as cheap as possibole the guy i took it to was a bit of a rip. might be able to sort something out with him.. thanks heaps..

i actually found it quite simple to bleed it, just undone the bleed nipple next to the fluid bottle and pumped it a couple of times topped it up pumped it a couple of times topepd it up, untill the bottle wouldnt empty anymore and the clutch was firm.. only took like 5 mins, still took it to the brake & clutch guy in my local town and he said he couldnt work out the problem but he tightened everything and said see how it goes but its been a week or so now and the bottle is still at the full level and theres been no problams so its all good.

do i have to drain my oil to screw in the thick pipe? because it comes from the bottom of the engine and has been replaced with a screw in end..

about 2 months ago i decided to get the turbo removed from my rb25det, due to p plate laws.. after getting this done i discovered the car does not have anywhere near as much power (sorry all the people that advised me against this i should of listened and you were right), in fact the compression is so low that my girlfriends barina has more up and go, so about 2 weeks ago i decided its time to stop embarrasing myself and put the turbo back in. i bolted the turbo in no problems at all, took me bout 20 mins i thought it would be easy, but i failed to take into consideration 2 copper pipes coming out of the turbo its self and a thicker (screw on) pipe, im not sure where the 2 copper pipes go i cant find anywhere around the turbo area where they would connect to, also they look exactly the same and (apparently) they do different things (one for water one for oil) so i wouldnt want to get this wrong and do some permanent damage to something. i found the spot where the thicker pipe screws onto but i could not locate anywhere to attach the skinny bendable copper pipes around the area where the turbo sits, i do have car ramps if its easier to get to from underneith.. surley someone on this forum would of done this themselves or know of someone who has done this before, would really appreciate a little help.. thanks.. this is what is in place of the turbo at the moment in the photos below the RED circles are the copper pipes that im talking about, where i dont know the location of.. the GREEN circles are another thing, in the first photo im unsure where that yellow rubber tube goes as there is no location that i can see around the area of the turbo where it would plug onto, in the second photo theres also another cut off yellow rubber tube that has been cut off and had a screw put in it to prevent flow behind the block near the clutch fluid bottle, i dont know what this goes to either, if anyone can help thanks very much..

thanks buddy ill see if it has leaked behind the carpet.. i just topped up the fluid and it seems to be doing absolutely nothing it wont increase the amount of push the clutch has.. so i bled the fluid and tried filling it up again and its still the same.. i will check out behind the carpet tho.. is there any way i can replace the seals myself if i cant take it to the mechanic?

hey all, i have a problem with the clutch in my manual r33 94', at the moment i cant drive anywhere because the clutch pedal doesnt have any effect till it gets 3/4 of the way to the floor when usually it is hard to push it all the way but now its got like a quater of the pressure it had the other day.. me knowing nothing about clutches rang the mechanic and he wants to have a look at it, dont know anyone with a car trailer so its $50 each way to get it towed to the mechanic just for him to look at it then another $100 to tow it again if he decides it needs fixing.. i noticed that the clutch fluid canister was empty and not anywhere near the min/max line so this meaning it has a leak, im not sure where i can look to find the leak?? if anyone could give me some pointers, for all i know the mechanic might be ripping me off hardcore and fully knowing theres nothing wrong with it, so a bit of help would be great.. by the way the thrust bearing that is in it has recently started wearing out, ive been meaning to get that replaced but it honestly doesnt seem like its the thrust bearing thats done it, coz its only just started making noises like in the last 2 weeks surley it wouldnt be gone already.. thanks to anyone who can help..

SOLD! SOLD! SOLD!

anyone know if there is a DIY for putting a standard RB25DET turbo back in and where the oil and water lines go etc.. coz i had my turbo removed (big mistake) now i am interested in putting it all back togethor again.. the only problem is i dont know where the metal bendable water and oil lines go..

lol, its kind of pointless having a reversing beep at all in any kind of car, im pretty sure you dont need notification that your driving your car in reverse..

id wire it to my head and tail light accessories so it comes on when you turn your lights on at night (because the headlights and tail lights run off the same circuit if im not mistaken), have red LED's to match the tail lights, the only problem is when you brake it wouldnt go brighter but im sure theres a way around that, then hook a killswitch under the dash somewhere incase you dont want them on for some reason.

http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/101

blue magic is what i use and it is fantastic, it has bleech in it and i do my headlights once a month, just check out my car pics to see how good my headlights are. costs about $18 a bottle will last you for years.

i have 2 skylines a standard r33 RB25DE and an RB25DET r33, the DET has a short shifter and its had an auto to manual conversion, im just after a standard gear stick for the DET.

i am selling... ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001 (see thru purple) 75 watt Randall RX75R Amplifier with Foot Pedal (on wheels) Intelli Chromatic Guitar Tuner (best you can get) Black Guitar Stand CNB Hardcase (with opening pocket) Purple Dimarzio Guitar Lead (High Quality) Black Hotline Lead and a Checkered Guitar Strap I bought the guitar brand new in july this year, used it on stage like 3 times other then that ive just socially played it at home, id say ive probably played it about 30 times in the last 4 months since it was brand new.. my friend owns a music shop and gave me a good deal i managed to get the guitar reduced to $1900 from $2200, the reason im selling it is because my band broke up and i need cash. SPECS. Set-Thru, 25.5" Scale, Mahogany Body, Flamed Maple Top, Maple Neck, Rosewood Fingerboard, 42mm Earvana Compensated Nut, Thin U Neck Contour, 24 XJ Frets, Black Nickel Hardware, ESP Locking Tuners, Tonepros Locking TOM, Seymour Duncan Custom-5 (B)/Jazz (N) pick ups with 5-way Ultra Switch, Elixir .10 Guage Strings. i also added lock in connectors for the guitar strap for a bit of extra safety, the strap is already setup ready to go. The Randall Amp is a 75 Watt RX75R, sounds good on pretty much any tune, i also added wheels to it for easy transportation (as i was in a band not long ago) i dont have a pic of it on me but this is the exact same amp http://www.bmusic.com.au/images/randall_rx75r.jpg (stands about knee height) dont really need to explain anything else, everything is in fantastic working order, a great idea for a christmas present, unfortunately there is to much stuff to ship so if anyone is interested it can be picked up from my house in Wodonga, Victoria (3 hours drive from melbourne), still going to be cheaper to pick all this stuff up from me then buy just the guitar alone brand new in a melbourne store. you can look at some pictures of the guitar here.. http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?...;albumId=528119 i am asking $1000 for EVERYTHING, keeping in mind i have spend well over $4000 so far on all this stuff.. and its all in mint condition. feel free to PM me or email me [email protected]

no idea what happened to my post :S rather confused, but what i basically said was.. i had the turbo ripped out of my DET which made it basically run like S#@T because of the lower compression ratio, either i was to put better pistons in that would make it run close to if not the same as a normal standard DE engine.. i had another forum about this called "very slugish" or something like that where i was told a few times that removing my turbo was a big waste of time because the engine plate would still read that my car is turboed, so i decided to just put the turbo back in myself coz it would be allot cheaper then bothering with new pistons, labour etc.. and what i have been doing is slowly (in between work) putting my intercooler,piping,turbo back togethor, i did the intercooler and piping in about an hour that was the easy bit, but i got upto the turbo and the mechanic i took it to put in a standard metal elbow (that connects the motor to the dump pipe, not sure what its called but its connected to the turbo and usually rusted), i unbolted this (it was hard work took me about 3 hours) and went to put the turbo back in the car with the other metal (rusted engine to dump pipe connector) that was bolted to the turbo and realised there was skinny bendable pipes coming out of it and a fat one that goes to the bottom of the engine and screws in somewhere, these are the oil and water lines i presume, only problem is i dont know where they all go and i didnt want to f#@K it up and create more problems then i origionally have.. so i decided it would be best if i let the mechanic install the turbo its self (and it wouldnt be so expensive considering i did all the intercooler and piping) so i bolted the first metal (rusted engine to dump pipe connector) back on, i put it back togethor EXACTLY how it came apart, then went up to the servo to get fuel and when i was on my way home the car started smelling funny, when i got home i popped the bonnet and it smelt really bad, the radiator was almost red hot like i could barley touch it (also the rubber pipe coming from the top of it) this is weird considering the car was off all day and i only did like 4 kays all up to the servo and back.. so basically the moral of the story is im confused why my engine is running differently then it was before i pulled it apart considering i put it all back togethor EXACTLY how i pulled it apart, also is there anything i can do to fix the problem just to get it to a mechanic? thanks to mlr who offered to send me an engine R31 Nismoid. i was origionally trying to get around p plate laws but i realised if im gonna get done because the plate says its a turbo anyway i may as well get done with the actual turbo in the car it will make the car run better and if i do get done and need to get another car i can just sell it as a turbo.. which is definitely not what im keen on doing.. hope it all makes sense, sorry..

hey everyone, i have up for sale a 1993 fresh RB25DE Manual, great for a project or a first car for a p plater as it is completely standard appart from a K&N Air Filter and a muffler, i got this car about a year ago off a guy that lives near me in Wodonga, Victoria.. he owned it for 5 years before i had it and looked after it very well, i have not had 1 problem with it in a whole year, oil and filter has been changed twice since ive had it, im the biggest R33 fan and i have looked after this car very well, it was also washed every week.. it runs very smooth and its going to be a shame to see it go, the only reason im selling it is because i came across a 4 door skyline that i just had to have (you can see pics of it in my gallery), i only need one car so its time to sell my first one.. the engine reads roughly 138,500 killometers (i've done 35,000 killometers since ive had it) registration was actually done today so its valid till the 22nd of november 2010 (more then a years rego) has a cd player, pioneer speakers, no amp or sub, still belts out a good sound. comes complete with origional r33 skyline floor mats and boot wall carpet. the origional headlights were very bad so i had headlights imported from japan, they look much better.. the car was garaged every night untill about a month ago (parents got new car) and the guy i bought it off garaged it every night for 5 years. not one problem at all, never heard any abnormal noises coming from the engine, gearbox is very smooth. please feel free to email me at [email protected] to ask me any questions, or pm me on here whatever goes easiest for you.

I have tried everything, had the cd player inside the house all night so it had pleanty of time to reset because i cant find the reset button on the face of the cd player head unit anywhere, went back out today to test it, plugged it all in, put the keys in & turned to accessories, no power to the cd player still, even with the car running theres no power, i tested the cd player loom plug with a test light when the car was turned to accessories and when the car was running and i still only got that one wire to light up, checked the audio fuse in the boot, the electrical fuses under the dash and the fuse next to the loom plug at the back of the cd player, even replaced the lot just incase it looked fine but it wasnt, theres still no power at all to the cd player. its kind of weird because my clock has no power either (only a very very faint light that you can only just see at night) and it always resets back to 12:00 when i turn the car off then back on, so its not holding the time or lighting up fully. The air con will not turn on with the car, i have to manually turn it on every time and its never set to the temperature i previously had it (always to the factory 25 digrees), could this all be to do with the same thing? i installed dash neons a few months ago & i remember i set all the wires up incorrect by accident to a toggle switch (before doing it correctly) and i seen a tiny bit of smoke coming from the wires around the ignition, could this be anything to do with it? my clock hasnt worked since that day.

okay, well i took the cd player completely out of the car for about 20 mins while i had lunch, tested the wiring loom with a test light, only one of them lit up, im not sure if thats right or not? it was the top 2'd one from the left. or the bottom 2nd one from the right, coz im not sure what up and down is. still having no luck with power, was just curious, how does this happen? ive never had this problem before is it coz the car heats up in the summer months or just an electrical fault?

its a sony cd player, couldnt find the reset button you were talking about, been working flat out havent had a chance to get to it but im pulling the dash apart to get to the back of the cd player to test the plug right now as i speak.

because my newest R33 (DET) looks about a thousand times better then my DE, the DE runs better, who would drive a stock standard R33 when you have a fully done up, freshly painted, lowered R33 sitting in your driveway gathering dust? so the plan was to change the motors over so i can drive the better looking one, because the DET wont run smooth without a turbo, but i decided to put the turbo back in and risk losing my license for the next year.

yeah mate, im not even gonna do the turbo at all, just going to watch my mate do it, ill tell him anyway just incase he doesnt do it like that.. but im pretty sure he would considering hes done up 20+ cars in he's life.. yeh, it was gonna be a big waste changing the motors over, im not losing anything putting the turbo back in, labour will all be free.. cheers.

yeah, thats what i thought as well, i have a friend who is nearly 10 years in the trade, since finishing his apprenticeship, so i could get him to do it easily, i can absolutely respect what people say about it being fake and not genuine, because im also a big believer in doing things properly.. i would myself rather have a genuine carbon fibre bonnet shipped to my house and installed, just dont want to run the risk of getting defected for having something illegal on the car, its not worth it, even tho cops would barley know the difference you would always get your 1 or 2 who do there job really well.. so for now i dont think ill worry about it just wait till something else comes along, might even decide to get a carbon fibre bonnet and risk it, just keep the origional one in the shed.

lol, oh well i guess thats off my to do list. i do have to say tho, first google search i tried i found this http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?...;products_id=47 but your right, thats why i posted this to see what people think, havent really heard of it being done before.