cobo_11

when you disconnect the battery, I would recommend you only take off the negative lead (black one with a "-" on the battery). I've heard that sometimes if you take the positive line off, and have bad connections somewhere in the car, then reconnect it it can blow fuses and even more important things like stereo, ECU, etc... Just a suggestion, could be wrong...

I only know a tiny bit, but for R32 GTS-T's you need to get a different sump for the front wheel drive because the front diff is moulded to it and the gearbox has a transfer case which I presume would mean the gearbox needs some modding. If I had a digital camera, I would take a fews pics of my car for you. If anything I said is untrue, someone please correct me. :-)

I ordered from greenline a while back, I dealt with Jason because someone (Simon I presume) had an accident so Jason was using "power of attorney" while he was ill. I only brought a POD filter so no biggie, but I had no probs at all, Jason was always friendly and helpful and it only took about 2 weeks from verification of payment to recieve the parts. I think they were closed for maintenace to increase there product range on the website.

yeah I think I might drive somewhere that can help me, if I can be bothered....was going to go to that track day at phillip island...see what happens. Thanks for all you help AutoTrust, I appreciate it.

yeah I thought about using the nylon hose, but some say it deteriates pretty quickly...? anyway I still need the T piece. Do you know the size of the hose and T piece that I should get AutoTrust? I looked, but it doesn't say it anywhere on the box or instructions with the boost gauge...

I've tried autobarn, but they don't have any idea (I live in the country). I think I will have to try internet sites like autospeed and whatever because I hardly make it up to melbourne where I could easily get these bits and peices. Has anyone been to the performance shop in phillip island?

also, what size T peice and hose should I be asking for?

thanks bbenny! is that nylon tubing I recieved withthe gauge allright to use? I am trying to chase down some sylicon hose to use but can't find any as yet...

There is a movie Jackie Chan made recently in Hong Kong which features a black R33, don't know the movie's name or if the skyline was a GTS-T or GT-R Anyone seen this movie?

ps: check out the new SPEED mag, I've just glanced at it, but I think they reckon the prototype in the mag is what the "GT-R" (see above) will look like

if it ain't got 6 straight cyclinders, it ain't a true godzilla agree or disagree, my 2cents anyway

This might be a really stupid idea, but might not be: One of (that I know of) my coil packs is playing up, when it is cold I can feel the cylinder kick in and out and it revs all over the show. I have been told one of my coil packs is playing up by the guys at AVO, so I know it's that. Maybe you guys experiencing the weird idling have a bad coil pack too? And by the way, my car doesn't stall on idle, so maybe my problem and your problems are totally different? Hope it helps somewhat. PS: Does anyone know where to get second-hand or even new coil packs that don't cost the earth?

Hey all, I have searched this site but found nothing that helps me. I have a mechanical boost gauge to install and would like to know where to plumb the piping to on an R32 GTS4, as it doesn't have a factory boost gauge I will no doubt have to cut a hose somewhere and install a T piece right? oh, and the boost gauge is a vacuum and pressure one -> Autometer Phantom 2-1/16' Mechanical - Boost 30 in Hg.-Vac./20 PSI I would greatly appreciate any help at all! PS: If anyone has pics to illustrate, great! PPS: Does anyone know where to buy silicon hose and T piece to suit this application? Autobarn have no bloody idea down here.

just wondering who is attending as a spectator from here? I will probably attend if I'm not going to be the only one! lol

Autobarn here in the country actually had like 5 bottles of the stuff (4100) when i brought mine. paid something like $40. Had castrol softex or something in it before but runs heaps better now, lower temp and lower pressure and has more responce and feels 'free-er'. recommend it to anyone!

by the way, only 2nd, 3rd and 5th gears were crunching in mine if I remember correctly, but I think my syncros are worn...or the gearbox is farked. but when I asked the mechanic if any metal chunks came out he said practically none. who knows...seems good now!! :-)

I just got Castrol Syntrax 75w-90 put in my gearbox (I couldn't get the darn filler plug undone! ha) and my gears seem a lot better, hardly crunch now, and it's even smoother when the gearbox is warmed up.

anyone know where I could my hands a some dark R34 GTR wheels/rims like these??

is it ok for people to come and spectate? any details about spectating would be much appreciated!

also, I am putting in Castrol Syntrax 75w-90 in the gearbox, what would be good for the transfer case besides Nissan stuff?

does the transfer case drain and fill much in the same way as the gearbox? would i also check level in transfer case by filling to the fill hole? thanks for all the help guys!

hey all, I was planning on changing my gearbox oil this weekend as I haven't done so since owning the car. However, I was just reading something about the ATTESSA 4wd on GTS-4's and the transfer case for the front diff. Now, my question is: Is changing the gearbox oil in an R32 GTS-4 just as if it was a GTS-T? I mean, does the transfer case run off the oil in the gearbox? Or will I have to drain the transfer case aswell and fill that up? Or does it run on special oil? Does the transfer case even have oil in it!?? I would greatly appreciate all and any help on this, thanks

do supra's have coil packs!?

cheers Driver :-)

wish I have the money...:-(