PHaT MR30

and again

and another

Hey i am selling these wheels, they are: 17x7" +38 offset 4x114.3 PCD chrome dipped in USA too rice for my liking anymore come with 2 rims wrapped in 205/40ZR/17 Marshall Pro Racer IIs, the other 2 are used Silverstone FTZs 205/40/17s. 1 is worn on the inside edge due to camber, other is ok. the 2 with silverstone tyres have slight (very slight) scratches on them, which were there when i bought them, unnoticable unless you inspect them with a magnifine glass. the other 2 rims were brand new when i bought them and i fitted the marshalls to them. $1300ono these will fit the following (can't gurantee) Mitsubishi Cordia Mitsubishi Lancer CB Nissan Pulsar N12 (maybe N13 aswell) Honda Civic Nissan Bluebird Nissan/Datsun Skyline C210,R30,R31 Nissan Silvia ? could be good if you do a brake upgrade on any of these cars as there is heaps of clearance (main reason i bought them) selling due to extreme lack of funds these wheels look PIMP on any car!

Hi, I am thinking about selling my L28E to fund a new project, if all goes accordingly with the insurance payout. Rebuilt bottom end flat top pistons (bumps compression up a bit) recoed head (possibly some work) Modded AFM, (possibly computer too??) modded zorst manifold (larger dump where headers meet into 2 1/2") basically everything to drop engine into another car (240Z etc) Recoed R30 Stumpy 5 speed Heavy Duty Clutch All work carried out by Dat Rally in melbourne clocked up ~80rwKw on their dyno can hear running/test drive engine Only been run on Optimax while in melb and PULP in tas Make a reasonable offer (L28E engines go for $1200 from importers, but i am reasonable) also available 2 1/2" mandrel bent zorst to suit negotiable if purchased with engine Oh im located in Tasmania

whats the point? well if you have seen an SR20 powered bluebird you probably would understand (there is 1 or 2 in hobart that i know of), the existing trailing arm setup rips itself away from the floor pan in no time at all. converting to IRS gets rid of this problem, not to mention aides handling. afaik gibson bluey is 'based' on the IRS rearend, where its from don't really matter cos its the same for any IRS datto of that era. seeing as it was basically a purposes built racer of course its been changed to look nothing like original. it however still retains the rear X-member and pivots roughly from the same points. im not having a go at anyone either, its just when it comes to bluebird, don't **** with me ! i guess while your at it visit http://910.cjb.net that is our website

I won't argue with you over that, but after pulling both apart they are identical. as you said though the foam may be questioned, i don't know what dual desity foam looks like so i can't tell. the trust one i compared it to has been oiled on the inside, hard to say

my simmons are 15x6.5 front, 15x7.5 rear. i am gonna respray them gold and put new tyres on them (current ones are bald from drags) what happened to your car?

hmm, well i have been using hpr 30. before that i dunno what my car had in it. i know that mobil 1 is what all the SR boys are using, but have heard good results from Motul and Fuchs. maybe i should use a different multigrade cos my car has trouble cranking and idling when cold, and its still supposedly tight, i don't need a thin oil like 5w i don't think as its not turbo what do ppl think?

yeh well the only advantage i guess is the computer is a bit newer and the afm is better, not to mention the extra capacity would help so i guess it would be not a bad idea

Well seeing as i am the owner of that forum and i have personally seen the car and there are pics on the net, i can gurantee its piss easy, a few guys local to me are carring it out too the gibson bluey was based on the same rear end designed, but heavily modified for racing i suppose its too hard to bother in the R31

I got a filter from this place in sydney for about $40, it is identical to my mates Trust AirInex II which cos a few hundred $$$ have yet to use it but its identical besides the trust sticker on the screw down part do you know how good these filters sound? ppl ask my mate what bov he has, and its just a factory plumb back, but it must blow back through the filter cos it sounds damn awesome and the flow noise it makes must indicate that it isn't restricting it much go the trust or the rip off one i got www.flyn.com.au

hmm im sorta getting it but still having trouble, could you possibly put it in lay mans terms for us dummys 'Looks for dummys guide to fitting wheels!!'

Nismojos r30 has done a good job to take what he give it! also a friends has done nearly 270,000kms on the stock L24E which has never been rebuilt and he give that a fair lashing, cooked the oil in the diff one night and killed it. its only now starting to show signs of the rings going in it. which is why he wants to buy my engine

oh not to mention i have a worked L28E over the L24E my front suspension is decke dout with nolathane bushes and adjustable radius rods and lwr control arms disc converted rear end 2 1/2" mandrel bent zorst its all gonna be up for sale soon to fit an RB20det

what do you mean by noise with a hole in the air box? like an induction noise? my air flow meter has been modified by datrally to dump more fuel

easiest way to tell is on the head (sparkplug side) inbetween cylinder 2-3? there will be a number like: N42, P90, N47 etc and to tell if its an L20 or L28 jus have a look on the block below cylinder 6 spark plug with be the engine code. they start with the block IE L28 009876 etc black rocker covers usually means turbo, but can't be 100% sure let us know what you have there i am going to possibly be selling my L28E, Gearbox, Clutch, ECU and Loom complete soon

Ive gotta get my rear end modified though, cos i currently have about 4 degrees camber and major toe out problem, which is eating through tyres fast! (common problem with lowering IRS dattos) easy fix costs about $4-500 fully adjustable

I fitted some different brake pads to it, and the calipers locked on the rim of the simmons, so they are just sitting here, well they were on my bluey for a while and i used them at the drags. yeh the 17s are the ones in the avitar. im not a fan of chromeys anymore either. COPY CAT! hehe i am going to buy some 17x8 P1s they are a damn good wheel for the money oh and my car runs a worked L28E not the normal L24E fuzza

I was talking about the locally sold R31 Vl commodore RB30E single cam 2 valve engine which is what he had in mind

yeh slow speed in the wet is the best way to learn

This information kindly provided by Rolls, some_cs_student, & trex101 When choosing oils the better the rating, generally the better the oil, and also the more expensive. Keep in mind even the Group II oils are probably still better then any oil that was made when your car was manufactured. Basic explanation of ratings Group I - mineral Group II/II+ - hydrocrak (VI below 120) Group III - hydrocrack (VI above 120, mineral derive "Fake Synthetic") Group IV - polyalphaolefin (man made Synthetic) Group V - Ester & other un-group fluid (Ester or Polyolester, super high grade Synthetic, good for aircraft jet engine). Common products and their ratings. Redline (Group V Polyester) Motul 300V (Group V) Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W40 (Group IV/V Blend) Mobil 1 (Group IV) Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 (Group IV) ~$59 - one of the best value Castrol SynTec 0w30 (Group IV) [A minor mistake in the front page, Castrol SynTec 0w30, the German castrol is group IV. The American 5w40 or similar is group III (sometimes written as III/IV but not true group IV).] Castrol Edge Sport 5w30 or 10w60 (Group III) Motul 4100 Turbolight (Group II?) Keep in mind that the 100% synthetic stickers mean jack, just means that the oil is at least Group III. As far as viscosity ratings go, this depends entirely on what temperature range your car is going to be used in and your driving style (track or street car) A decent read through this thread should help you answer that. As far as oil filters go, get a genuine nissan one if you don't want to spend much, these are superior to ryco/cooper. On Selecting Which Viscosity There is alot of factors to consider when choosing oil weight and it's quite difficult to give you any good advice by your above description. There are 2 major considerations in choosing oil viscosity, 1) Fuel dilution (fuel blowby into oil sump effectively thin down the oil viscosity) Thicker oil can withstand more fuel dilution then thinner oil but thicker oil also causes friction drag, slower spool, higher FC and more startup wear. For example: If you run Penrite Sin 25 25w60 in your engine, at 10’c morning when you first crank your engine, you would have effectively run 1131cSt startup viscosity. That’s like 4.5 time thicker then Mobil 1 0w40 (248.8cSt@10’c). It’s like running greases through your engine instead of oil. 2) Engine oil temp Higher oil temp effectively thins the oil down. For example: Mobil 1 0w40 is 14.3cSt @ 100'c but when avg oil temp raise to 120'c, it would have thin down to 9.1cSt which mean that it is effectively a 20wt oil (you do not want to run a 20wt oil when you racing down a track, do you). So if your avg oil temp are 90’c, any 30wt oil will do as it is effectively a 40wt oil at that temperature. The key to the correct oil viscosity depends on mostly the above 2 conditions. There is no one size fit all oil. Oh, IMO some brand of oil are known to withstand quite abit of fuel dilution before thinning down. Redline & German Castrol is one of them. That’s why it’s highly recommended in BITOG for track or high hp muscle car usage.

Hi i am currently investigating, putting these struts onto my car. As far as i know the tops are the same stud pattern PCD (whatever). they will fit i know that, know problems though are (possibly not in my case, but in known cases. IE on 910 bluebirds) Springs hit inside of strut tower and don't allow for full lock to lock turning. therefore requiring smaller ID coilovers (not a problem) second is that they can possibly adversly give heaps of negative camber (fixed with adjustable strut tops). any other known problems. the main reason i want these are they open my options in suspension parts. and main concern the ability to fit R32 4 spot calipers. if anyone has any comments on this conversion i would be interested also if anyone has an old set of s13 struts complete inc hubs that are in shyte condition i would be interested in the if they are going cheap

Hey ive got this CD player imported from USA. Im trying to sell it to recover myself from going into debt. its currently in an R33 and fits in quite nicely. the screen is 1.5DIN the unit is 1 DIN. if anyone is interested PM me. once i have clocked up 40 posts ill put it in the forsale section pics of actual unit are available

wheels are out there for your cars, its just i think wheel shops can't be bothered selling them to you cos its too much effort. they are a FWD offset generally

Hey dude, I am just about to make up a list for converting an RB into a r30. rb30 has stock 118Kw at fly from memory l24e only have about 90-100Kw but seem to make the power more efficiently? mates l24e manual drags them too my l28e manual eats them in all the L series engines are probably a bit better than the early RBs non DOHC engines as for your speed i have had mine in 5th go past 200kmh and stop on the needle (about 10-20km past 200kmh) and only be sitting on a bit over 5K revs i will compile a list for the engine conversion, but i would suggest you save your pennys and not get an RB30. I myself am going with an RB20DET