JackVGX3.0

*My advice... A '33 GTST makes around 170kw from standard, which is plenty fast specially if its your daily. Buy another one, turn it into a racecar and save it for the track. No need for stupid horsepower running around on the roads.

If you wanna make big power theres nothing surprising about throwing $30,000 to $40,000 at it. The guy who runs the performance workshop around the corner from my work is building a '33 GTR that is expected to make 500rwkw and so far he has given him $30k with at least another $10k expected. RB26DETT, twin HKS turbos, three throttle bodies for laminar air flow, insane amount of engine protection, computer will retard engine with even slightest change in oil pressure or temp spikes... Too much to list. This thing makes me want to cry simply because I don't own it. But if you want to make good power, highflow the turbo, intercooler, exhaust, coilpack upgrades, nistune, and maybe bigger injectors.... Should get out of that for around $5-$6k.

Bit of a late update. Pulled AFM out, got the PCB inspected and resoldered, threw it back in, driving home from work it shit the gear completely, went into rich mode hard and wouldn't rev above 2500 rpm. So obviously AFM shit itself. Replaced with remanufactured unit and all good. Now, when getting into it, full boot and around 4500-5000 rpm it hesitates a bit. Computer re-adjusting fuel maps? Timing (I just did a timing belt the day after replacing AFM, but did it to the letter from the manual)?

I work with a company who specialise in repairing PCB's and instruments. I'll take it there. Thanks man. I'll bump to let you know how it goes. Namiss gauges and instruments - Newcastle NSW. Good people.

Can you interchange S2 CAS with S1?

Hey guys. After searching unsuccessfully I'm starting a post for the first time in a long time. I've got a S1 '94 R33 GTST, got 197xxx km's, have had for about 3 years. Haven't had any issues apart from a clutch up until around 3 months ago when it started being a real bitch. Left it over the weekend, around 2-3 days of no driving, just sitting outside. Jumped in to go somewhere, started up, stalled immediately. Got it going after a few repeats of this problem, got over it, fine, okay, moving on. Since then, it's started to cut out when coming to a stop at lights etc. Not often, usually kicks back up with a hit of the key. But not too long after, it's now cutting out whilst driving, whether it's cruising, under load, under boost, whatever. It will sometimes cut out completely (take it out of gear and the engine will stall) and cut back in a second later or sometimes I'm having to pull over and switch the ignition off and re-start the engine to get it to come back to life. I cannot for the life of me replicate any scenario that causes it to cut, it's completely random. I'm a mechanic by trade and this is completely doing my head in cause I'm struggling to diagnose the issue. I've put it on scan tools to check the OBD and it's not registering any fault codes in the ECU at all. So. Anyone had similar issues? If so, what was the cause? I'm due to do a timing belt within the month and was thinking of replacing the CAS but I don't want to spend $400+ on a new sensor and find the problem hasn't gone away. Help much appreciated.

PM sent buddy.

Please note that i need an RB25DE (Non-turbo) frontcut. Turbo is useless to me as i cannot drive it, so its money being spent that is only gonna get unbolted. Thanks.

Hey, Im after an R32/R33 RB25DE halfcut to convert my R31 to RB25. Needs to be manual for the sake of the ECU and such, but the actual gearbox/manual components arent needed as I'm already running RB20DET 5-speed manual and bad-ass clutch kit. Thanks.