Jump to content
SAU Community

RS500

Members
  • Posts

    790
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by RS500

  1. hey chris, fyi, as hks basically use garrett turbo parts, the id plates also say Garrett - Allied Signal. looks will not tell u if they are the same turbo. specs and measurements will tell u what ur turbo is.
  2. dude, what turbo r u running now? it could be that the turbine wheel itself is too small for the RB30DET. also, given the extra flow of the twin cam head, you'd be much better off with an A/R .82 exhaust housing (with a decent wheel in there of course), otherwise you'll be choking the engine's air/gas flow which will also rob your engine of well earned power.
  3. Chris, from my experience, all HKS turbos actually say the model number of the turbo on the id-plate along with the compressor wheel trim. what is the number on the id-plate? if u like, PM it to me.
  4. dude, here are the specs of the HKS GT-RS turbo http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...rs/ac_gtrs.html and before u start jumping up and down about the power, take into account the mods that were down to the SR20 in test. also, if u look carefully enough, you'll see that the HKS GT-RS has the same 'GT35' wheel as the Garrett GT25 (-32), although it has a smaller 51.2mm inducer (hence, 52-trim).
  5. dude, here's a 350hp GT25 (446179-0031) for you; http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...readid=67178962 although if you'd like more power you'll need to go for the next one up, i.e., 446179-0032 which has a larger compressor wheel, hence more air-flow. http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html PM me as a friend might have one of these for sale.
  6. ido09s, a friend of mine has a pair of GTR N1 turbos which have the larger steel turbine wheel along with the larger compressor wheels and larger housings for sale. awesome turbos for the street. PM me if you're interested.
  7. a friend with a HKS 2535 on his RB20DET (R32 GTS-T) struggled to make 200rwkw, even with boost pushed above 20+ psi. although, it was very responsive down low. i am still a bit sus. about a 2530 being able to produce enough air-flow to make 230rwkw on an internally standard RB20DET at 17-18psi. i just don't think it's possible.
  8. Also, fyi has anyone looked at the official HKS website for the power/torque results of an RB26 with GT-SS'? if you look at the web link below, you will see that they managed to extract 422kw (565bhp) @ 7070rpm and 629Nm of torque @ 5150rpm whilst pushing the turbos to 1.4 kg/cm^2 (~20psi). these are great results and the power curve looks mighty fat, i am not too sure as to what this would equate to at the rear wheels or all 4 wheels. http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...ss/ac_gtss.html oh another thing, please note the mods listed below; * IN & EX cams - 264 degrees (lift ???) * HKS F-con V Pro * HKS Racing Suction intake system * HKS exhsut, muffler, extensions & front pipe and in addition; * 2628cc engine capacity have a nice day
  9. did anyone take notice of MrNismo's engine specs? The cengine is running with the following specs: - 264 IN/EX cams 10mm lift - P&P head - 87mm Forged Pistons - Standard rods & crank - F-Con V Pro note that he has oversized pistons (larger engine capacity), higher duration/lift cams and a modified head which would've contributed greatly to this great power result. given this, obviously the GT-SS would not make the same power on a standard spec RB26. Also, as mentioned above, the fuel used was 100RON which allows for more enhanced tuning again over what we have availabel with 98RON (if that) fuels.
  10. dude, if it's compressor surge, can you can verify this by getting an exhaust place to tap into your exhaust housing and placing a brass fitting so that you can connect a boost/pressure gauge to it. with this, you'll be able to see the difference in boost levels b/w the compressor and the exhaust side. ideally you'd want to see as close to 1:1 (i.e., 10psi in inlet manifold = 10psi in exhaust manifold)but that probably wouldn't be possible with a standard engine. if this isn't the case, and u fitted the hi-flow turbo yourself, make sure there are no rags or anything of that nature left in the intake pipe or cooler pipes ;-) good luck.
  11. Hi all, i have for sale a Garrett T66 which has the following specs; * Garrett A/R .70 compressor housing * Garrett T66 (66mm) compressor wheel (72lbs/min max air-flow) * P-trim turbine wheel * A/R 1.32 split pulse turbine housing (T04 flange) * competition thrust bearing this turbo has just been reco'd, is practically brand new, and given the compressor wheel it can support up to ~650-700hp. view compressor map here; http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowTS.html Price = $1300 if interested please reply here or call 0425 799984.
  12. JiMiH, fyi, the lift on the inlet/exhaust cams for the RB20DET are 7.8mm for both. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html
  13. dude, i'd recommend you speak to dennis at P.E.T Modifications (9464-4225 or 0425 799984) as he would be able to advise you which way to go for the power that you want. also, if you were looking at hi-flowing your original turbo, he can get that done for you, so give him a call and have a chat with him. just tell him Goran (RS500) sent you and he'll help you out.
  14. it's not really a big turbo dude, and 12psi wouldn't be pushing that much air to get you more than ~170rwkw. you'll need more like 20psi to make some decent power.
  15. why don't u see how the turbo goes first, and then look into cams if u feel u need them?
  16. Midnight, what boost r u running and do u hav an oil separator (catch-can) fitted?
  17. that's what i remember reading him having a sierra cosworth housing.
  18. here's on for ya; http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock.htm
  19. from memory, he's running a GT3040 core with a garrett A/R .60 compressor housing and a sierra cosworth A/R .63 exhaust housing.
  20. hi there, there's a guy selling what seems to be a very nice R32 GTS-T with nice bits and pieces on it, so if you're interested, check this out; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=31815
  21. what are the specs of the turbo? it's not as simple as just telling us that it's a T04E with a A/R .63 exhaust housing. the wheel combination is important in being able to tell how the turbo response will be.
  22. guys, fyi, i actually happened to read a zoom magazine last night (older issue) which explained all the different variants of the 4AG engine family. the reason for the two types of CR with those pistons is that the earlier engines (found in earlier model cars) ran the lower 8.0:1 CR whereas the later engines ran the higher 8.9:1 as to give a little more power and torque. fyi, bore size and stroke were the same for both engines so u can chose the pistons with the CR that will suit your needs/application.
  23. that's some bad news u got there Pete. it's a shame when people stuff something up and don't want to admit it, and in the end people like yourself have to fork out to fix things that should've been done in the first place. anyway, i'm sure it's gonna get done properly this time and, might i say going for the RB23 stroker is a very good idea. actually a friend of mine has a R32 GTS-T with an RB24 (RB26 crank & rods), Trust T67 turbo kit which he bought from japan and this thing kicks ass. he doesn't have a proper ECU on it so he can't get the most out of it, but the potential definitely is there. good luck dude, i hope all goes well with this build. let us know how it goes.
  24. hi Pete, if you're looking at O-ringing the block/head, you can't go wrong with the factory Nissan headgasket. first of all, what kind of power are u looking at achieving with this engine? what turbo and more importantly, what kind of boost will u need to run as to get the power you are chasing? these answers will also affect the compression u need to run in your engine. if you're not looking at running very high boost (eg, 20+) then, you shluld be able to get away with running 8.9:1, but this would restrict you in case u wanted to aim for higher hp output later on down the track. therefore, 8.0:1 would be perfect for both street driving and at the same time allowing u to run higher boost, if u wanted to. fyi, opening up the ports on the head, larger lift/duration cams and over sizing the valves will also give u heaps of benefit as the RB20s were a little restricted in these areas from Nissan. again, it all depends how much power u want to make and how efficiently you want to make it.
×
×
  • Create New...