Rusty_185

$10000 with roadworthy - Can negotiate price further if no roadworthy is required. Ok, where to start.. I purchased this car roughly 2 years ago. since then i have resprayed the car from bare metal in Ford EGO . Its a charcol grey with 3 colour metallic paint (red,green & blue flakes). It looks unbelievable in the sun but its not too glittery to be offensive.. It has a full GTR body kit made from polypropylene (plastic), not that cheap fibre glass crap! it also has original GTR projector headlights, light weight GTR bonnet and grill. The wheels are 18x8.5 GMAX Enigmas with 95% tread, unlike most, they fit under the guards so its roadworthy! it also has GTR brakes, front and rear. The Engine has just been rebuilt inc. new bottom end bearings, forged pistons, rings, cylinder hone, minor head reco, new stud kit, water pump, heavy duty cam belt, walbro fuel pump, R33 ceramic turbo, FMIC, HD clutch, and a nistune computer system (plug in your laptop and tune away!).It also has a 3" stainless dump pipe and 3' catback system. The engine has just finished its run in period and i havnt had it back on the dyno so its still running a basic tune. i would estimate a solid 150kw but has the potential to deliver over 200rwkw with a quality tune! The interior is very clean, a few signs of its age like a torn steering wheel but there are not rips or stains on the seats, all in all its very clean. It has a stereo with 2 amps.. 1 alpine 4 channel and a Directed 2 channel. it has JVC 6" rear speakers and 5x7 eclipse fronts and a 12' cadence sub. This car has been my pride and joy for the last 2 years, i have spent ridiculous amounts of money on it and i have turned it into one of, if not the finest example of a GTS-T going around at the moment.. you wont find any autobarn accessories on this car or shopping lists down the doors, nor will you see it down chapel st on a saturday night. I am a mature owner and have taken a lot of pride in making this car what it is.. When the car is sold, i will supply it with a roadworthy certificate and all receipts for work carried out on it. So please, dont waste your time looking at clapped out GTRs, come and check out my ride, id be happy to take you for a spin and answer any questions you have. cheers matt. for photos go to: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...32&trecs=14

Ok, where to start.. I purchased this car roughly 2 years ago. since then i have resprayed the car from bare metal in Ford EGO . Its a charcol grey with 3 colour metallic paint (red,green & blue flakes). It looks unbelievable in the sun but its not too glittery to be offensive.. It has a full GTR body kit made from polypropylene (plastic), not that cheap fibre glass crap! it also has original GTR projector headlights, light weight GTR bonnet and grill. The wheels are 18x8.5 GMAX Enigmas with 95% tread, unlike most, they fit under the guards so its roadworthy! it also has GTR brakes, front and rear. The Engine has just been rebuilt inc. new bottom end bearings, forged pistons, rings, cylinder hone, minor head reco, new stud kit, water pump, heavy duty cam belt, walbro fuel pump, R33 ceramic turbo, FMIC, HD clutch, and a nistune computer system (plug in your laptop and tune away!).It also has a 3" stainless dump pipe and 3' catback system. The engine has just finished its run in period and i havnt had it back on the dyno so its still running a factory tune. i would estimate a solid 150kw but has the potential to deliver well over 200rwkw with a good tune! The interior is very clean, a few signs of its age like a torn steering wheel but there are not rips or stains on the seats, all in all its very clean. It has a stereo with 2 amps.. 1 alpine 4 channel and a Directed 2 channel. it has JVC 6" rear speakers and 5x7 eclipse fronts and a 12' cadence sub. This car has been my pride and joy for the last 2 years, i have spent ridiculous amounts of money on it and i have turned it into one of, if not the finest example of a GTS-T going around at the moment.. you wont find any autobarn accessories on this car or shopping lists down the doors, nor will you see it down chapel st on a saturday night. I am a mature owner and have taken a lot of pride in making this car what it is.. When the car is sold, i will supply it with a roadworthy certificate and all receipts for work carried out on it. cheers matt. 0421 282 750 [email protected] * note: serious buyers only - no test pilots. thankyou *

i have a very similar problem mate.. i have an R32 gtst and its just had an engine rebuild. it starts fine when its cold and when its hot, but leave it for 20mins and its a cop to get going again.. gotta crank it a few times and give it some gas before it will limp to life.. but after that it runs normal again.. i run a nistune computer so i reverted back to the stock tune to see if that would fix it but it made no difference so i can only assume its a mechanical fault.. but it just has me stumped as to why it would only occur when warm?? anyone who have any ideas on this? would be much appriciated!

Hi all, just a quick follow up on the progress of this contaminated fuel issue.. its taken just over 2 months but finally my car has had a full engine rebuild and new fuel system fitted.. FULLY paid for by the fuel company! total invoice came to just under $6K plus the cost of my hire car which came to $1800 by itself! In the end it was well worth the fight but F*ck was it a mission!... i pick up my car in the next few days.. gotta run it in for a little bit then she's good as new! Turns out insurance companies will cough up when you make a big enough issue out of it! lol thanks to everyone for all there input.. and lets hope no one else has to go through this! cheers guys!

cheers guys! quick question.. i may have choice of repairer, can anyone recommend a good workshop in the southeast Melbourne area??

new update.. the fuel company has now declared liability, saying the fuel is severely contaminated with water. They are sending out a private assessor to look at the damage to my car... then the insurance company will arrange to pick up my car and pay for the repairs! so hopefully this will be all over and done with soon and i can get back on the road!! But keep in mind guys, this problem is not isolated to independent service stations or ethanol blend fuels.. this is a problem that can effect any service station from any supplier. According to this fuel company its somewhat common.. all it takes is a poorly fitted cover, alot of rain or a crack in the tank to cause water contamination like this? Personally i will never use anything other than premium 98 from the big suppliers in future. A lesson well learned i think!!! cheers for all the help guys.. ill let you know the outcome

think i may have found the answer.... have a read of this, the first problem is "phase Seperation", exactly whats happening with my fuel! How E10 Can Damage Your Engine The negative effects of E10 fuel can cause older engines many problems and can damage internal fuel system parts or engine components. Below is a list of what one should expect to encounter at the expense of using ethanol blended fuel: General E10 Problems 1. Phase separation (P/S) of gasolineWill cause two layers to form - gasoline and alcohol/water. The hygroscopic ability of alcohol will cause a decrease in octane while also causing your engine to run on pure water. 2. Water contamination (W/C) of gasolineAs previously states, the ability of alcohol to attract water will cause gasoline tophase separate and form two distinct layers. This is more prevalent in marine engines, but can also occur in automobiles that are seldom used or driven in high humidity areas. Remember: engines aren't meant to be used with water. 3. Decreased fuel efficiency and mpgAlcohol gives off less energy during the combustion process, meaning that more alcohol must be used than gasoline to drivethe same distance. E10 fuel can decrease fuel efficiency by up to 20% given the application. 4. Vapor lock or fuel starvationVapor lock refers to when water is attracted into the fuel tank, causing the gasoline to phase separate and the water layer is sent to the engine. An internal combustion engine is not meant to run off of water, therefore causing serious damage to the internal parts. 5. Decrease in octane Because alcohol attracts water, the two separate from the gasoline and cause the octane to decrease from the fuel. 6. Decreased shelf life of gasolineAt optimal conditions, the shelf life of conventional gasoline is only 90 days. However, due to ethanol's ability to attract water and phase separate, the shelf life of gasoline is now drastically reduced to around 1-2 weeks in automobiles and even less in marine or vented engines. 7. Decreased life cycle of parts and engineEven though conventional gasoline is also a solvent, the extreme solvency of alcohol causes unnecessary wear on internal fuel system parts. Up to around 2003, most auto and marine manufacturers did not create internal fuel system parts with the intention of running E10, therefore older engines are hurt the most by the use of E10. Even now many newer vehicles are having issues running E10. Parts Damage and Engine Damage 1. Wear and damage of internal engine partsBecause of the chemistry of alcohol (i.e. it combusts at a higher temperature than gasoline), there have been some cases where spark plugs, pistons, and even the main engine blocks have been damaged by the use of E10. 2. Damage to metal, rubber, and plastic parts of fuel systemAlcohol's high solvency causes many internal fuel system parts to deteriorate faster than normal and may even fail under normal operating conditions. Recently, manufacturers have been using more durable parts in order to combat the solvency of ethanol. 3. Corrosion of metal parts in fuel system and engineThe ability of ethanol to attract water can cause corrosion of metal parts in the fuel system, also affecting drivability and engine performance even more. 4. Oxygen sensor damageOlder vehicles were not designed to run on such oxygen-rich fuel, thus causing many oxygen sensor problems during the emissions process. Expect to replace these fairly soon after the switch to E10. 5. Carburetor/fuel filter damage, including cloggingE10 causes all the gunk and garbage inside the fuel tank to become free, flowing through the fuel system and clogging the bottlenecks. In fact, ethanol is the same thing as many carburetor/fuel injector cleaners that claim to give better performance. 6. Clogging and plugging of fuel injectorsSee above. Be wary of fuel injector cleaners that contain alcohol, since ethanol does the same job for free. 7. Destruction of certain fiberglass fuel tanksSome fiberglass fuel tanks (mainly in marine engines) were not designed to hold alcohol. The fiberglass coating may break loose and literally destroy the engine. E10 Drivability Issues 1. Engine performance problems and lack of acceleration 2. Hard starting and operating difficulty 3. Stalling, especially at low speeds

Yeah thats possibly what this could be.. e10! i did a simple test last night using a measuring cup; had 50ml of water in it and marked the level, then added 50ml of the fuel to it. As ethanol blends with water, the water level will increase and the fuel will stay on the top as a seperate layer. This gives a rough idea of how much ethanol is in the mix.. well from this test it looked like close to 80% ethanol. I know its a crude test and theres probably alot of variables... but interesting none the less?

thanks mad082, thats a good idea! ill do that tonight! cheers mate

Hey mate, im really worried about naming the company in case it comes back to bite me later.. this may go to court so i need all the defense i can get.. id PM u you but coz im new i hav to have 10 posts before i can do it..? dunno y? but ne way... lets just say, be very weary of any fuel from service stations in the patterson lakes area.. ( that should be generic enough ) ) cheers

Cheers for the help guys... Id imagine it wouldn't have done much damage as ive only driven the car about 5km since filling it. But ur right Terry, there should never be seperate substances in fuel.. which is why im worried about just cleaning out the fuel system and running it again. If that contaminant is something corrosive or silicon based it may stay lodged in the cylinder, clog up the valves, blow by the rings... any number of catastrophic possibilities! ive called ACCC and there about as helpful as a brick..basically said the fuel comp may pay for the repairs or they may not.. and if they dont you could take them to court but it may be a drawn out process.. Might give RACV a call and get them out to diagnose the fault. a document stating the fuel is the cause would back me up a bit. worst comes to worst ill advertise the company thats selling it .. hmm maybe even a call to today tonight.. they love this sh*t lol ill keep you posted cheers

Hi all, Im new to the forum so bare with me.. Basically i need some advice; Over the weekend i filled up my car with contaminated fuel from a servo in melbournes south east suburbs ( sorry cant give names for legal reasons ). The fuel is a high octane ethanol blend and up until now has performed great in my car.. But this time as soon as i started the car it was running rough and once i left the servo i noticed a significant loss in power and then the engine began to misfire and stall and my engine light came on. i immediately parked my car and got a mate to pick me up...( at this stage i just thought it was a fault with my car!) while driving home with my mate, he needed fuel and filled up AT THE SAME PUMP! as soon as we took off, same faults.. engine light, misfires, loss of power. I have taken fuel samples from both cars and the fuel is yellowish colour with 2 distinct layers which dont blend with each other. (see photos ) http://img34.imagesh...atedfuel002.jpg http://img16.imagesh...atedfuel001.jpg The fuel also has a sweet smell ( like ethanol ) which is fair enough because it is an ethanol blend? But ethanol should be soluble with ULP??? I also thought the contaminate could be water or some form of oil however i have tested both substances and they are both flamable. The top layer produces an oily black smoke and the bottom layer has a very clean burn.. I have taken both samples to the servo and filled out some crappy generic complaint form.. They have closed down the pumps and have had there head office come and check the fuel ( though they havnt given me a response yet ). Does anyone no what this could be and what potential damage it could do to mine or my mates car (R32 GST-T & 03 Subaru Liberty ) So i can go back to the servo with an argument and rough repair costs etc.. Has anyone else had this problem, id love to know what the fuel companies response was?? thanks guys!