Lum

She has just the hot/cold slider so will need the sensors and related parts too. She is however perfectly capable of wiring up everything herself (she's just a lot less likely to get around to it if it's for my car than for her own ) this is what she says she needs: The unit itself harness mode door/air-mix motor ambient temperature sensor sunload sensor internal sensor this weird tube thing that I think is called an aspirator, it's to separate the internal sensor so it gives accurate readings blower motor controller/resistor pack apparently there might also be a relay needed? I believe I just need the unit itself and the modified loom, and installation is basically pull the surround off, unbolt the unit, plug in the new one with this adaptor loom and put it all back together again? Oh and postage to the UK

That's a little less than a tank of fuel for the Ceffy, at UK prices As soon as I mentioned this, my GF asked if she could have one for her S13 (they are hard to get over here). She'll wire that up herself though if the subloom comes with it as it's well documented for the S13 and she's a lot better with a soldering iron than me. I suspect you'll want some cash for the work too

If that includes the climate control unit I may well be interested I have no idea where I'd get one here in the UK. I see where I'm getting confused now though. The UK S13 (sold as a 200SX) came with the hot/cold slider the same as the US 240SX and since A31 info is very thin on the ground I've been doing most of my research based on the S13 and R32 which are more common over here.

I take it your car came with the standard manual controls, and the analogue climate control you refer to is the one that looks basically the same only with the addition of an Auto button and the hot/cold slider is replaced with one marked 20/25/30, ie this one If that's the case, am I right in saying it's simply a case of removing that analogue unit, chopping the plugs off and soldering on the plugs from the digital unit? I don't need to follow this guide that has me installing sun sensors and temperature sensors and so on? Any chance you could draw up a wiring diagram?

I know there's a thread where all the A31 people have been posting their drifting setups but would anyone happen to know the factory settings that Nissan would have you use, or at least some decent settings for normal road use. Should I just use R32 GTS4 settings? Oh BTW it's one of the 4WD A31s if that makes a difference

Sussed it out. Here is the procedure in case someone in the future needs it. 1) Remove ashtray. 2) Undo all 4 screws in the ashtray area. 3) Lift out the gearstick surround (from the ashtray edge), rotate 90 degrees and lift over gearstick. 4) Remove the 4 screws (2 each side) that hold the centre console to the transmission tunnel. 5) With the car in park and/or the brake applied, lift the handbrake release lever and unscrew the single screw holding it in (it's on the passenger side) 6) Put the handbrake back on and remove the handle from the handbrake release lever 7) This will give you enough leverage to pull out the plastic surround around the handbrake release, it will be very stiff 8) Now that this is out of the way, one more screw will be revealed, that is holding the armrest down, unscrew this and remove the armrest 9) grab the newly revealed part of the radio facia and pull it towards the back of the car, there are some clips around the radio area itself that need to come free, and some more clips along the sides where it meets the transmission tunnel 10) once the clips are all free, lift the part you are holding upwards over the gearstick and remove the facia 11) Now there are just 4 bolts holding the radio cage in place, unbolt these and pull the radio(s) out Refitting is the reverse of removal, though lifting the handbrake lever is tricky, right in the middle is a tiny dark metal bar which you need to push in before you can lift the lever. The wiring harness adaptor you need is the same as for an S13, or at least it's the same as a UK spec S13 200SX, however the ground pin is not wired up. I fixed this by cutting the black wire on my harness adaptor and soldering some extra wire to it which I took to one of the screws holding the gearstick directly to the chassis, I loosened this screw, wrapped the other end of the wire around it and tightened it again. If you wanted to do it properly you could crimp a ring terminal to go there or something like that. Next job: Amplifier install and speaker upgrade

The worst part is the bit of plastic that surrounds the radio itself is part of the same piece of plastic that extends under the dash and down the side of the gearstick surround. Is that how it is on the Laurel too? How do I get the radio out of a Laurel? Edit: Just had a brainwave and looked it up on FAST. This is going to be a right bastard of a job Looks like the front piece hooks in under the rear one which needs to come out first, and that's bloody hard to do as the chair blocks access to two of the screws. What I didn't know about is the false floor in the storage pocket that hides two more screws. The handbrake release leaver is going to cause problems too. Oh joy.

Mine isn't like that. Two of the screws that were under the ashtray allowed the gearstick surround to come off, then when the ashtray was removed two screws either side of where the ashtray slides into should in theory allow the front facia to come off but it doesn't. I guess the facelift Ceffy is different? This is the best pic I could get, will try again when it's light.

Well, I took the ashtray out, undid the 4 screws that are hiding in that area. Got the gearstick surround out and now I'm stuck, there appears to be something holding it in place at the back of the gearstick where the two halves joined. I undid the 6 screws holding that surround to the transmission tunnel and the back section (by the rear ashtray) can lift up but is stuck at the join in the middle, and the front section can't move at all, and again appears to be stuck at the join in the middle. What now?

Haven't found any screws at all. Will look for one around the ash tray. Is there just that one? Also, so I can prepare in advance, is the wiring harness adaptor the same one as on an S13?

On most Jap cars I've worked on, you took the radio out by first pulling off the surround from around the gearstick, then pulling out the facia from around the radio itself, from there you could access the screws that hold the radio in. Doesn't seem to work on the Ceffy, there must be a screw hidden somewhere that I haven't found. What do I do? This tape player is doing my head in as I only own one tape and the radio uses the wrong frequencies and thus can only pick up Radio 2 or some encrypted air traffic control stuff.

What can I say, I love it to bits already. Sure it doesn't accelerate as fast as my old Legacy (Liberty) B4, but it corners so much better, makes the Legacy feel like a large block of lard that understeers a bit. I'm guessing this is because of the different design of AWD system over Subaru's. Note the crappy rear foglight conversion. Just a bit of translucent red tape over what used to be the reverse light. The numberplate light is terrible too. My car was fitted with a backlit numberplate in Japan, so to get it through the UK MOT they stuck that thing on. I'm ordering a translucent numberplate and will be going back to the backlight ASAP. The dash lights. You'll have to take my word for it that all the green is actually the same brightness when viewed IRL, and that the edges of the lines are actually sharp and so on. My cameraphone is crap in the dark. I love the green with yellow needles though. Shot of the centre console, you can also see the only bit of damage on the car here, that little tear in the plastic. I have an Apexi Multichecker to go over that though. Oh, and the white sticker is a little KPH -> MPH chart I made up as a temporary measure until I can get my Defi HUD installed. And finally the wheels that are going on. There are some mods planned. The priority is to fit my Defi HUD so that I can have a speedo in MPH, since KPH only is a little bit naughty in the UK. I then want to replace the speakers, I have some 6.5" alpines (with separate 2" tweeters) for the front doors and some Alpine 6x9s for the parcel shelf as well as 2 50W RMS Alpine amplifiers. Once those are in, I'll be replacing the radio with my Car PC and gluing the USB soundcard to the top of one of the amplifiers in the boot, well away from my mobile phones. Once my insurance history calms down a bit, I'll start playing with the engine. I'm planning on an Apexi power intake, custom exhaust, maybe a bigger turbo (there's a T28 in the shed doing nothing) and a Nistune kit. I'll also need to do a little work on the autobox, planning a mod whereby the dropping resistor gets disconnected based on a pressure switch, so that you get fast clunky gearchanges only when you're making above, say, 2PSI and smooth gearchanges while below that or on vaccum. Edit: Oh yeah, in the meantime the guy who looks after our Nissans wants me to drill my airbox so that the pigeon noise when you lift off is louder. I'm not convinced it's a good idea, even though I do like that noise on my GFs S13 through the Apexi intake.

Isn't the usual trick over there to acquire the VIN plate from a crashed 240SX and then "repair" your 240SX by welding in a Skyline shaped chassis around the remaining part of the 240? Did you get the Ceffy registered at all? Presumably as a Maxima.

http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/nissan...o/1992_5/22295/ That's the available colours for a 1992+ E-EA31 Cefiro 25SSE, since you say you have an RB25 in there. I suspect you have either Red Pearl or Silky Snow Pearl, based on your description Edit: this thread tells you the colour codes for each colour name, perhaps from that and what is left of your VIN plate you can figure out what you have through a process of elimination. Can you even read your chassis number? Edit2: PM me your chassis number and I'll look up the colour code on FAST for you.

Well I popped down to see the guy who is actually going to be fitting the thing, told him the LNA31 is the same as an R32 GTS4 and he reckons it'll be just fine (and then convinced me to buy a set of braided hoses designed for doing this conversion ) Drilling the brake discs shouldn't be a problem either, he's done that many on S13s he has a rig built up for doing it properly. Now I just have to hope the boat with my car on it hasn't sunk or whatever

BNR32 == R32 GTR? or GTS4? I'm pretty sure the N means AWD in Nissan chassis codes, but that's about it. Thanks for the info though. I'm going in pretty much blind here since Ceffys are so rare in the UK and AWD ones are rare everywhere since everyone wants driftable ones. It doesn't help that this is my first Nissan, having previously owned a Subaru Legacy B4 where the front brakes and discs from a WRX just bolted straight on. I do eventually plan on going 5 stud but that's not until a year or so down the line, right now I just want a reasonable brake upgrade since the Ceffy is supposed to use the same S13 brakes that S13 owners claim are pathetic on their cars, so must really be dreadful on a heavier Cefiro. Edit: I might pop down to see the guy who looks after my GFs S13, since all he does is SX's, Silvias and Skylines and ask him to give me a shopping list. If the LNA31 Ceffy really is identical to the R32 GTS4 (are they 4 stud too?) then he should be able to answer.

Well this guy is breaking his R33 having crashed it, I don't want to go to 5-stud though as I have a nice set of 16" Momo Sport alloys so was planning on getting the discs drilled. Swapping the hubs I understand but what the hell is a knuckle? Am I likely to be able to bolt the R33 callipers onto my existing setup? (I don't even have the car yet, it's still on a boat, so it's hard to check stuff) or is there more to it than that? I'm going to pick up the brakes on Tuesday, and have also asked for the master cylinder, is there anything else I should ask him to pull off the car for me?

Bumping an old thread here, but someone is offering me a set of 4 R33 GTS-T brakes/callipers/discs. Other than redrilling the discs, is there any special effort involved in fitting these or do they just bolt straight on. Does the fact that I have an AWD Cefiro make a difference? Would it also be wise to get an R33 master cylinder too?

The standard way (other than the gearbox method) is to change the faceplate, but it's a pain in the arse job and never looks right afterwards since most of the companies that offer them are aimed at ricers who want white dials and blue LEDs. I've pretty much solved the problem anyway, going to leave it in Kph and just use the Defi HUD, then going to wait for a cheap Defi link display to turn up on eBay which I can shove in front of the speedo so that I can't see it any more. That way I also don't have to worry about the mileage reading wrong either (though selling it will be fun if I have to convince people it is really in kilometers!)

That's a long way for me to take the car for trans work though, what with living in the UK Hence why I'm trying to find out what he did

Bit of an odd one this, and I suspect I'd be better off asking on an Australin classic cars forum, but here goes. When my Cefiro arrives from Japan, they're going to convert my speedo to MPH, this will be done by attaching a gearbox to the speedo cable and putting a bit of black tape over the K in KM/h, my understanding is that the speedo also does the job of generating the electrical signal for the ECU which means this signal will be wrong. I'm not too bothered about this since the signal isn't used for much (and it also raises the speed limit in the ECU from 180kmh to 180mph), however I've just bought one of those Defi HUD displays which has preconfigured calibrations for most Japanese cars. Yes it also has a manual calibration mode but the problem with this is if you switch it back to KM/h you have to recalibrate it again which means every time I take the car to Europe I'd have to recalibrate my Defi HUD as that's the only way I'll be getting a KM/h display. I realise this is a Japanese import forum and nobody in Australia or NZ will need to do this to a Ceffy or a Skyline, but I'm hoping one of you will know someone who has imported a British car that's new enough to use an electronic speedo signal rather than a cable. Or am I barking up the wrong tree and Ceffy's do not use a speedo cable at all?

Do you have any links to more information about this car. In particular what they did to the gearbox to make it withstand that sort of power?

Ok been doing some research. Info about Nissan autoboxes is somewhat thin on the ground, but if this site is correct it means that the Ceffy and the Stagea (and the S13 for that matter) use the same gearbox which in turn means I'd be good to go with an RB25 swap. In the meantime, when my car arrives, I'm going to try this mod. It's designed for an SVX but Subaru and Nissan gearboxes are pretty much the same, basically what it does is instead of pulling out the dropping resistor to get harsher shifts (better for the gearbox, not so good for you) it provides a pressure sensitive switch that pulls the resistor only when the engine is under load (They set it to switch at "6 Hg" I'm guessing since it's American that they mean 6 inHg, so ~ 152 mmHg or 20 kPa) resulting in harsh shifts under acceleration (where you're most likely to do damage to your gearbox if you're making too much power) and normal shifts when you're just pottering about. That plus a tranny cooler should make the gearbox able to stand up to around 330bhp if my research is correct (and it probably isn't, so I'd like some input here!). So basically it should take a mildly tuned RB25 (or a stock RB26 with the restrictor removed), or I could just go nuts with the RB20 since they're cheap to replace if I blow it! Aiming for around the 300bhp mark, nothing particularly special and still leaves a bit of a safety margin.

I can probably find an R32 diagram, those things are hardly rare in the UK though I might take you up on that offer if I can't. My engine swap is a few years down the line when my insurance history is a little less horrid, I'm mainly after the ceffy wiring diagram for other smaller projects in the meantime. I'm in the valleys near Caerphilly and Merthyr Tydfil, and yes Ceffys are rare over here, a few people on Driftworks have imported them (for drifting, obviously) I've never seen a single one on the road and I do a lot of miles all over the UK. There's a good chance I'll have the only 4WD Ceffy when it finally arrives. Fortunately I live just down the road from a local garage that specialise in 180SX's and Skylines and have done a few RB26 engined S13s and the like, so it just depends on how different the wiring is. And yes I know that roundabout, though there is a worse version of it in Hemel Hempstead that has 6 mini roundabouts instead of 5. They work quite well because if you go around it backwards you get right of way over all the people going around it in the normal direction thus giving you an advantage over tourists who don't know it.

Care to share that wiring diagram at all? I've not been able to find a Ceffy wiring diagram anywhere on the internet and it's getting annoying.