Lum

Thanks for that. Problem with getting stuff from Japan is the cost of postage, plus the pound isn't doing very well right now plug all the decent Japanese makes are really expensive anyway. Do the pics of those KTS parts look like they're decently made or do you think I should avoid them and find something else?

Dunno if this helps at all. A31 ECU pinout: http://www.maximasdownunder.org/forums/vie...p?p=24540#24540 It's suspiciously similar to the pinout for an S13 only with some extra pins for the additional cylinders and so on Wish someone would post a complete wiring diagram

Just seen someone here in the UK selling a Stagea RS-four with the RB25DET and an Automatic. This interests me as I was generally under the impression that the Nissan autobox was a bit weak, maximum of 250bhp, and would quickly be killed by an RB25 engine. Is it a different gearbox in the Stagea or is the Stagea putting out less than 250bhp and thus uses the same gearbox? If it is a better box, how hard would it be to swap it into my AWD Ceffy (along with it's RB25, obviously) how much power is it likely to take? I'm sure I'm going to get called a poofter for wanting to keep the car auto, but I need something my GF can drive (she has a long term injury to her right shoulder) and it's nice for the hours of stop/start traffic that take up far too much of my driving time over here.

Any idea if KTS exhausts are any good? Looking at the dump/front pipe from here then get the rest custom build locally. Does this seem like a good plan or should I get the entire thing built custom?

I'm planning this kind of conversion for the future. Would you still have this opinion for my car which is one of the 4WD Ceffys, or would a RB26 be ok in this application? 30 isn't really an option for me since I'm in the UK and we don't get many Commodores around here to nick the RB30 out of, lots of people crash their GTRs though

Also the fact that the wheels I have in mind are going to need some costly repair work as one of them isn't quite round. Quite difficult to road test and make sure they haven't screwed up the handling when the car is being unsettled by a bent wheel. Not to mention that I wont have the car until January.

Having a bit of language difficulty here. I'm guessing by dump pipe you're refering to the bit immediately after the turbo elbow? I'd call it the downpipe. No idea what a front pipe is, sorry. Edit: A bit of googling and looking at pictures of bits of exhaust on Australian parts websites, and I'm now guessing dump pipe = turbo elbow and front pipe = downpipe?

I have no intention of keeping a cat on this car as there's no legal requirement for me to do so. Cats reduce fuel efficiency anyway and we're constantly told how bad CO2 is I was looking at a turbo back system

Thanks for that. So my next question is, what exhaust can I get? Given the rarity of Ceffy's in the UK, I guess it's going to be a custom jobbie? A shame as I like the twin exhaust look of the Mongoose (basically a bigger bore version of the standard S13 twin peashooters)

Out of interest, what are the import laws in Australia? Here in the UK you can bring pretty much anything over if it's over 10 years old, it just has to pass the basic annual inspection (MOT Test) before you can register it. Under 10 years it's more complicated an expensive, has to go through an ESVA test, which requires a model report creating, costs 5grand. There's companies that have done this and will let you rent theirs, but only for popular cars like GTRs, Imprezas, Bongos and Figaros and the like.

I've been offered a Mongoose exhaust from a 180SX (well UK 200SX) S13 with the CA engine, and would like to fit it to my A31 Ceffy. It consists of everything from the end of the turbo elbow. I realise that this isn't going to bolt straight on, but I'm hoping that at the very least the downpipe and the silencer will go straight on. Any idea how much work is going to be involved in getting the centre section to fit. Does it take the same route under the car (I believe the A31 and S13 chassis' are closely related) in which case I'd just have to chop it in half and weld in a bit of pipe of a suitable length. I'd rather use the Mongoose than go to Powerflow and get a custom one made up as Powerflow generally target the chav (Bogan in Oz?) market, creating gigantic fart cannons that aren't always tuned particularly well, wheras the Mongoose will be reasonably discrete and is known to work well (on CAs at least) Also if you think this is a stupid idea and I should do something else, please tell me!

I have a related question to this, since you guys are talking about what the ECU does and doesn't do with the speed signal. Since I'm converting the car for use in the UK there's two things I need to do. 1) Convert the speedo to MPH 2) Get rid of the limiter, otherwise it's going to be annoying if I take it on the German autobahns. I understand that the speedo is cable driven, but the ECU also gets a speed sensor reading, so my guess is that the speedo does the conversion from cable to whatever format the ECU is expecting? Is this correct? The common way to do this conversion is to alter the data coming into the speedo, in this case that would mean a little gearbox that reduces the rate of rotation by about 5/8ths, you then get a black pen and scribble out the K in KM/H on the dash. This is going to mean that when I'm doing 80km/h the ECU will think I'm only doing 50km/h. On my Legacy B4 I had this issue (that had a little box that altered the signal coming in from the sender on the gearbox), and it didn't seem to cause any problems, though you could see it was wrong if you used something like ECU Explorer to read the data from the ECU. However you guys are talking about it breaking the idle control, power steering, HICAS and god knows what else. My car doesn't have HICAS but it does have ATESSA, is it going to create problems if I do this.

Wouldnt it be easier to just buy a 4WD Ceffy to begin with? NA31 and LNA31 are the chassis codes you're after, the latter being the facelift version. That's what I've just done. When it arrives in January I can take pictures of the suspension towers and stuff if that'd help. Right now this is the best picture I have.

Well she actually had to buy a new shell because someone drove into the back of that one. It came with R33 brakes on the front and R32 brakes on the back (or maybe the other way around, not sure). Before that she had a set of Z32 fronts and standard rears. I think I'll be borrowing the Z32 brakes since they're just sat in the shed doing nothing. And yeah, you're quite close to Japan and their second hand cars are so cheap, I'm not surprised the country is full of them And yes, at least it's not the KA truck engine. She's quite happy with the CA (which is running about 250bhp), prefers it to the SR. She knows more about these engines than I do to be perfectly honest. I think I'm going to prefer the RB to both of them though. I drove a NA 1.8l Mazda 323F with the V6 once and was amazed at how nippy it was, convinced me that 6 cylinders is the way to go.

I think those are the ones yes. Problem is the UK never got the SR20 S13. We got the 180SX S13 (with a CA) up until 1994 then the Silvia S14 from 94 onwards, both were sold as the 200SX. Looks like they should go on though, thanks These are the wheels I have in mind BTW They'll no longer fit my GF's S13 due to her brakes.

Hmm stock S13 wheels are different in the UK. That's my car but I take it you already figured that out They're not just the same design with a different offset or anything like that though?

Yes I'm keeping them, sorry

lol, Driftworks dont like me because I bought an AWD Cefiro with the intent of daily driving it. Mine is still in Japan at the moment, only paid for it this morning.

Pretty much what it says in the title. I have my eyes on my GF's old 16" Momo alloys from her 200SX S13. I know the stud pattern is the same, but what about the offsets? Any other reason why I can't just bolt them straight on. I ask because I need to get the alloys refurbished first. One of them is no-longer round due to an unmarked, unlit pothole. Don't want to spend the money if they aren't going to fit.

I'm personally rather fond of Midnight Purple Though for a drift car you probably want something that stands out a bit more, so go with Dyno Rod Orange or something Sorry, I don't have a picture of a Ceffy in either of those colours.

Interesting, is yours a pre-facelift or post-facelift model (post-facelift has an L at the start of the VIN code) Do they even make mechanical speedo converters? Also, out of interest whereabouts in the UK are you? I've never actually seen a Cefiro on the road anywhere.

No problem, let me know how you get on as I'm sure I'll be needing to use them for parts once my Cefiro arrives.

Not had any luck finding a wiring diagram. If this is just for MOT purposes it might be easier to just change the dials? Or you could go down the really pikey route and put sticky labels over them Edit: Or just stick a GPS SatNav or camera detector in there and read the speed off that, which is what I have to do when I travel to Eire since I don't have KMs on the clock.

I'll have to wait until I see it for the ECU I think. I don't think there are many SE-4s outside Japan anyway since you can't drift them. Is there any way to make that autobox handle the power from an RB26. I like the idea of an automatic GT-R as I do a lot of long distance work, and from time to time I end up in 3 hours of stop-start traffic (UK people: I'm refering to the M6), it was causing me to get RSI in my left foot! Isn't it the same autobox as the S13? I think the first job is going to be to find some nicer wheels, which will be difficult, with the chrome on that car I should really get wheels of a matching colour, but I can't quite bring myself to have chrome wheels. That said these ones look nice in "shining silver". What's the best size & offset to get anyway? 17x7.5? I don't want to do tyre stretching or flare / cut / roll the arches.

If you're after a new one, try http://irs.co.jp. I've used them in the past for Subaru parts (much cheaper than going through Subaru UK, and quicker too!), just drop them an email with what you want and your chassis number and they should be able to obtain one if they're still made.