WGNC-34

I rarely go posting willy nilly on SAU (nothing nice to say, don't say anything), but having just watched the video I'm not surprised it degraded into punks vs cops with added deaths as it always does.Ash I have met you on a few occasions now and have always found you louder than that . The fact that you refused to enter the pointless and stupid parts of that debate shows the conviction and position that the majority of SAU and car club members have about hooning and it's pointlessness. Unfortunately this kind of debate would be embraced by most car clubs ,motoring professionals and police but having a ratings hungry show organize it assures failure from the start. If as a forum and community we continue to speak eventually we will be heard. Viva la revolution, Che Guevera and so on.

I've got a series 2 stagea side mount , same as r34 in Melbourne pm me if your interested

I've just crossed this bridge myself with my s2 rs4s .after reading the stagea brakes thread about a dozen times ( contemplated ending my life) I had no sure answer so I ended up with a full r33 turbo brake setup and now I'll never think about it again. If your budget extends that far its the way to go so you nEver have to worry again.

Hey guys, the search for a full set of r34 turbo brakes is getting pretty grim so i thought i would put the word out and see if anyone has any they are willing to part with,mostly i just need the calipers as the rest can be aftermarket. Within reason you can name your price as i would love to get them before easter.Contact me anytime on 0437 007 879, you can pm or email [email protected].

Hey , they are a few possibilities of what it could be, the simplest is over time the seals etc wear out and the glass might just have to be readjusted to sit flush again, the second is that the cables have stretched over time and aren't driving the sliding mechs all the way forward, these are the 2 simplest and most likely i think,I doubt the motor is gone as when the go they just simply stop working. Best bet would be to find a sunroof place nearby and pop in ,most deal in aftermarket roofs but usually have somebody skilled in repairing factory ones. I'm not sure what state your in but I'd be happy to try and point you in the right direction.

Fitting a factory sunroof is near impossible unless you replace the whole roof skin, as the sunroof frame bolts up to it, the integrity of the car is NOT hurt installing a sunroof, I'm a sunroof fitter by trade so obviously Im not going to post up saying they are dodgy, but if you don't really have a clue what's involved in fitting a sunroof and what else is required, your over opinionated and under informed. If you are keen on a sunroof look towards the aftermarket and find a reputable company which uses a quality brand and backs it with a warranty.

Opened up the sunroofs today just so you see what you get before they are installed,heres a pic

Thanks mate appreciate the support, I'll post some pics up tomorrow of the roof kits in their boxes, and I didn't really make it crystal clear in the first post I am a sunroof fitter by trade and the fitting of the roofs will be carried out by myself. Thanks guys

Hey Guys, I have been doing a big clean out at work and have come across a 6 sunroofs that are brand new but are old stock. So rather than my boss destroy them he has given them to me to sell and install. The Sunroofs are Webasto 700 series roofs specially made to fit in coupes and small hatch backs etc, they tilt up and slide back into the roof approximately half way. The reason they dont slide all the way back is because they are shortened at the back to accomodate for the smaller roof size. They look like this from the outside. And from the inside, although these use a simpler toggle switch and have a vented sun shade. This gives a good indication of where it will slide back to. Price is $1000 fitted into your car: includes retrimming the roof, drains and everything that needs to be done. Normal retail pricing on the closest comparable roof is approx $1400 and it slides above the roof rather than back into it. Bit of a disclaimer for anyone concerned (mods etc): I'm not doing this to advertise who I work for in any way. It is not through a company and is a once chance offer or else the roofs will get destroyed. Just trying to pass on a good deal while I can. If anyone is interested and wants to find out more information you can give me a call (Jon) on 0437 007 879 anytime after 6am and before 10pm or contact me through PM or email [email protected] I'm located in the south-east suburbs of Melbourne.

Ok guys i did some work on the trims tonight so these are some progress shots. These are the pieces ive done so far pretty much started with the easy bits to get used to the new glue im using,Selleys Kwik Grip Spray BTW awesome stuff only problem is it has no colour so it can be a pain to see what you have done. If your doing this yourself this is a good start in the way of tools, a sharp knife is the most important, the majority of these tools came from my window tint/vinyl wrap tools so if your a DIY fan you will get heaps of use out of them. The trim pieces start out like this,ive already removed the factory fabric which was a rancid grey coloured tweed,its also important to remove any foam left behind because you will get lumps. Once your done they look something like this. Once they are put together you end up with one rear quarter trim. Hope that gives you a bit of an insight into how it happens, once ive finished ill endeavour to start a detailed DIY post or at least post up a finished few shots in the car.

Ill get some good pics up tonight for those that are interested ,just been a bit busy at work

I'm retrimming the inside of a mates 300zx at the moment , everything except the seats, so it's definitely possible, just don't paint the dash it will look dodgy and if u scratch it it's stuffed, there are vinyl stainers that work better if u must change it but avoid it. I'm happy to send u some pics if u want an idea of how it works

Picked up my 99 series 2 rs4s in October 08, bought it as a 20th birthday present for myself ( couldn't have a gtr thanks to p plates) had around 80k on it back then and was worth every cent.

I just installed rear camber arms in mine, got them from Ryan at ISC cost $179+$15 postage for the pair, he is quick as getting things posted and really helpful.

Anyone who cares enough about getting flutter already has Put In More effort than required to make one of these. Coke can+scissors+pen and one pair of functioning hands = flutter, and if they use the free brain which (usually) comes attached to said hands they wont part with a single cent.

I should be there for this one

Had the same problem with my stag in the drivers side, behind the front wheel liner there is a grommet if they aren't in properly they will get water in them but only with heavy rain, mine was busted due to the ebc vac line so I sealed it shut and no more water. I imagine there is a matching grommet in the passenger side.

Just fitted my shiny new bc coilovers yesterday, they are a pretty good piece of gear. I did get a bit excited about dropping it though, ended up running about -5 degrees of camber on the rear this resulted in my 350z wheels touching the shock body.fixed it all up today and it feels like a new car. I will say that one of the factory shocks died at the hands of my 4 inch grinder because it wouldn't come out easily - no pain no gain

That seems like the simple way to go, I was thinking about it and you probably could just build the cage first and figure it out later, also more than likely u will have a cross brace throughout so just mount something off that

I would be inclined to go from the boot and keep tracing it back to the source, when u do find the split/cut don't just tape it, wiper squirter pumps have great pressure and it will just work it's way out, new Holden captiva's always do this when you drop the headlining, best fix is to cut it fully and use the correct size joiner with some silicone to be sure

I definitely like the carbon roof idea, another way I have done it in the past was too cut a piece of perspex approx 40 mm too big and then bend a 20mm lip the whole way round, then fasten it too the metal lip on the roof skin which will be left after u remove the sunroof frame and glass.you can fasten it with just about anything just don't crack the Perspex, I used sealed blind rivets.after that silicone the join on top and wipe the excess away so it's waterproof as well. I doubt u will have a headlining in place if your caging but if so you might need to cut the 20mm lip down so it doesn't catch on anything.

When u are fitting sunroofs the are the only way too cut a hole in the roof skin because they leave very little damage, I only use a guide line and with practice u can get it pretty well spot on everytime just takes a steady hand. I've used numerous battery operated and corded brands they are all pretty well similar but in terms of regular use you get what u pay for, Bosch is my favorite ATM

Hey guys thanks so much for the help, double checked the just jap site and they do have sets that fit both manuals and autos so its finally time for some low.

Hey after searching and searching this thread and others, I'm still trying to find a definite coilover setup that will fit my rs4s I was looking at bc coilovers but I'm not sure now which ones I'll need Im pretty sure r33 gtr will go straight in but the valving is wrong will this make a huge difference if both the spring rate and damping is increased

There's a DiY on setting a car up for trackdays etc, so I would search that and start there, then look through the motorsport threads and build threads as there are plenty of gtr's hitting the track regularly with there setups detailed In those threads, other than that find your closest track, book in and just get out there