sheldonmcg14
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Hi all, Late last year I took my R32 to Queensland raceway for a morning session, after several warm up laps I noticed the alternator/battery light was flickering on the dash. I pitted and popped the bonnet to inspect, upon inspection I noticed that the B+ wire off the alternator was coming loose, I removed it, sanded the terminal down on the wire and refitted. After several more laps the light came on for good and I pitted only to find the thread the B+ wire bolts onto had actually shorted out through the plastic casing in between the alternator housing causing the alternator to fry itself. I called it quits and had the car towed home. Removed the alternator and sent it to my sparky to inspect/rebuild. They rebuilt it for me and said all was good to go. I fitted this new alternator, tested it and then made my way to the next QR morning sesh a few weeks later. Once again the first few warm up laps went ok and then the light came back on, this time it didnt flicker and just went solid. Immediately pitted and read a reading of 17-19v through my Power FC (Yikes), popped the bonnet and now the starter loom B+ wire had melted and gone brittle, the alternator was stinking and hot. I called up my sparky and told him what happened, cracked the shits big time with the car and towed it home once again, not touching the POS for 7months. My partner finally convinced me to get it working again, so I stripped the engine loom, starter loom and alternator from the car to inspect/get repaired/replaced. The engine loom had zero signs of melting/hotspots/brittle, the starter loom had about a foot of melted B+ wiring and the alternator was funky as. I took the alternator back to the original sparkies for them to check, they remembered my last conversation with them from when I was at the track. They replaced the unit with a brand new Bosch unit and repaired my damaged starter loom. They said they had never seen an alternator so discoloured and heat affected before. Went home and fitted the repaired loom and new alternator they supplied, the car had been sitting around for so long that the battery was flat, we trickle charged it for the day and when we connected the battery terminal to start it up, I noticed that the Battery light was on, albeit the key not even being in the ignition and the ignition being in the off position. Started the car and the light stayed on, Power FC read just under 13v, now I have no idea whats causing the light to stay on, I left the car and am now at a point where I want to get this fixed once and for all. So Im here asking for advice, what the heck could be causing this? I have not taken the car for a drive yet as I want to find out what is causing the light issue before I could potentially cause more damage to this new and expensive Bosch alternator. The car has the following RB25det ser1 conversion RB20det loom RB20det power FC Z32 AFM 6boost, td06, 50mm gate and makes a little over 400rwhp. I have pulled the cover off the Apexi Power FC to check it wasnt damaged from overcharging which was lucky. What else could I look at? I am a mechanic by trade but was never too into the electrical diagnosing side of things. Im currently away for work for 2weeks but my partner is at home and she is experienced with cars etc so she will be checking issues for me that are suggested. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I want to get this very expensive garage ornament running smoothly again.
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Up for sale is my Apexi Power FC, I bought this for my BNR34 but never ended up installing this. This is new in box, comes with ecu, hand controller, instructions for ecu and also hand controller, stick pads and a genuine certificate. This is NON D JETRO, Serial number is PFC BNR34L 020-0292 and produced by APEXI. I have no use for this as I sold my GTR, So grab a special now as these RRP for $1400!! I AM AFTER $800 Or I may be interested in swapping towards the following items with cash adjustments either way if need be; GTX35R with T3/vband dump and .82 rear Turbosmart 50mm external gate (must be new) R33 RB25 Ross Billet harmonic balancer, (must be new) RB25 Non VCT Cams to suit GTX35R, 264 up to potentially 272 in/out (must be new) Sheldon, Gold Coast, QLD 0450313126
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Bnr34 Apexi Power Fc Brand New
sheldonmcg14 replied to sheldonmcg14's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Bump ONO -
Walbro Intank E85 Fuel Pump Kit
sheldonmcg14 replied to sheldonmcg14's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Bump ONO -
Bnr34 Parts
sheldonmcg14 replied to sheldonmcg14's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Bump -
Bnr34 Parts
sheldonmcg14 replied to sheldonmcg14's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Turbos sold.