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Would you be willing to say that this Z1 comparaison is safe ? http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=6556 I'm mainly interesting in the 2860 vs 2863. My ultimate goal would be to have gt-ss response I so loved with -5 power. ( I owned both setup on same engine and type-b cam so comparaison is easier). Top-end appears similar and don't really care about that anyways. More interesting in the mid/down low power.

I second. but so far, opinion seems mixed lol

you could try to fix gtx2860 turbine with -5 housing.. seems like it will offer more response than the -5s somaybe closer to -9 while still making about 100whp more. Honestly, I miss my -9s, I'M trying to find a combinaison that would yeild -9s response with -5s power. Seems like the BW8374 could do the job but I havent seen much result yet. Precision turbo just updated their 6266 ( or is it the 6466 ?) with the gen2 update, I guess it just a matter of times till they do it with the smaller size 6262. - or the gtx update with -5 housing. ( just a thought since you havent picked your turbo yet) oh and I ran both the -9 and -5 with a pair of type-b and i believe they are worth it for that extra torque your gaining.

I'm after new disc, or if a complete overhaul kit exist, I would be interesting.

Does someone know where to get an OEM transfer case rebuilt kit ?? I'm afraid the NO1 pack is a little too rich for my blood.

I'm at my last bits of collection before I start the built. I have the HPI6 from haltech and not even 5000km old coilpack harness and genuine coilpack. Would you reckon going wirh R34 buil-in coil would be a better idea, stronger spark ? I heard the R32 coils last much longer Vs. R34 right ?

Welcome in 2013, just realised you can have a bolt-on version of the GTX on a rb26. Which lead me to 2 choice, If I'm not mistaken, regard to bolt-on setup while still being an upgrade to -5, the gtx2860r/63 VS the RAW manifold + PTE6262 ( or wtv the number is lol, im still no pte expert). Anyone willing to shed some light on pros/cons between these 2 setup ?

Just a follow up, Since I own a Haltech ECU, this was their response: 3) With the WB1 connected and configured correctly, you can the 'O2 Control' function to trim your fuel map in real time. This means if you open your exhaust cut-out, and the engine starts to run slightly lean, the WB1 can add more fuel automatically.

yup it did made a difference when i fitted my OS ts3b

Like your comparaison done deal. will put the money toward something else.

you heard me through my last thread.. my goal is to stay with the -5s and rb26 and try to make the best out of it. I could go stroker or EFR but my actual setup is doing fine so I dont feel like dropping another 5-8k when everything is fine lol Still powerful and quick enough to go over the spped limit in no times

Hey guys, Considering raw and KTS sell their pulley kit for about 200$, I though I could grab a set if they do provide quicker acceleration. My second question is.. should I buy a set who use the same dimension as OEM or one that is underdriven ?

glad I asked the question, I'm now realising thing I didn't before! I will have to talk to my tuner and to Haltech support and see if its possible to have 2 maps switched, maybe.

exactly, no tools at all.. just assuming its louder than stock because the muffler is not the same. Thats why I went ahead with a Varex oval ( that I will paint black, was already in my plan! ) 3 inch in and out.

I will be doing a new tune after doing this mod ( if i decide to do it) so i imagine the tuner will fix this issue.

It will surely sound very angry, but I would only activate it on a drag strip or on a highway if I meet with a modded supra hahaha. I'm just scared that I will gain little with this mods. Like, how many have been able to break the 600whp marks on a dynapack with a pair of -5s ( on a rb26) ? Not to mention when I did 576whp, I still had stock intercooler, no water-meth and nistune maf ecu.

Both! but even if your car is quiet.. a big pipe will still draw useless attention. Well, i tried and couldn't find any quiet resonator in 3.5 inch. So I decided to go the cutout route, but since you mentionned that 10k fine, I can see now why in Aus, guys dont put cutout. we don't have this fine over here.

right now tuned for 23psi with 94 octane (us fuel) I'm running r34 dump ( 58mm) to a RS*R 70x2 to 1x80mm all the way to the end (no cat). Already bought myself a set of 70mm dump pipe, would just need to install a cutout right after the merge to unleash more flow. ( I have no choice to run max. 3 inch exhaust if I dont want more cop attention than my skyline already draw lol)

heres the cutout I'm looking for and will be installed before the cat : I wanted to drop the catback and see by myself.. but the tuner said he's not a fan of messing up with the car while the car is on the dyno.. so if I have to pay 300$ just to see if theres a gain, I might as well pay 300$ to buy the cutout and have it installed lol.

My tuner here in canada managed to tune a rb28 with gt860-5 with stock cam I believe and it made 640whp on a dynapack. I can say I have all the supportive bolt-on mods you could get + haltech ecu + aquamist kit. running 3 inch exhaust. Do you think/ have anyone made the test on a dyno I would be gaining something ''worth the hassle'' of an exhaust cutout on my RS*R front pipe ? If we're talking 10whp, with no extra torque or more responsive engine, I think we can say its not worth to hack a RS*R pipe + the cost of labour and cutout. However, if I can make the engine more responsive, add 15 lbs of torque .. then it could be interesting. Your though ?

Any one heard that the I30 160amp are straight bolt-on affair ? a chap in UK said it was straight bolt on on his r32. I'm trying to buy one from mechman or DC power in the state.. but none are willing to take a R32 case and rebuilt it or make a custom one.. obviously they must think the market is not there and they wont sell enough for them to make it worth it.

Hello guys, I found out that it would cost me near 1000$ to swap all the molding on my BNR32 in order to repaint the car.. I'm curious, did the aussie market or , if you know somewhere else, who did jobber molding replacement for R32 ? Thanks for the head up

I also think the tow strap would be more discret and possibly easier to fit. I see so many metal tow hook that could possibly means I will have to cut the bumper of my greddy bumper

I would like to have the tow hook as discrete as possible. I'm thinking if I go strap, I could hide it inside the bumper and pull it off when needed. However, I don't dislike the tow hook metal style but I wouldn't paint it orange, I will paint it black just like the rest of my car so it still discret. So what would you do in my situation ? strap or metal ? and could you recommend me a hook that actually fit a BNR32 instead of all those universal one ? thanks a lot

I'm trying to find an swer with the search engine but can't find the information I'm looking. RHDjapan sells these knock about 200$ for RB26.. However, a couple website are saying quite a few nissan knock sensor are the same. like the 300zx the same as the rb26 one http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Nissan-DET-Knock-Sensor-200SX-240SX-Z32-Maxima-Pathfinder-Skyline-22060-30P00-/220985333342 I'm sure someone got to try it before!