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4th gear ? psi chart ? look great!

thanks for your input. I really think the decision will be 2x 62 or 1x 83 .. car still run fine on -5s and going to storage in less than 2 months so I have a solid 8 month to think or wait for more result

I went form STD to gt-ss, maxed them out and went with -5s last year ( i can tolerate the extra lag for the extra power but wouldn't really want to go any laggier) So I'm more interesting in the 2x 6258 vs 1x 8376 the 7670 is just too close to the -5. And it appears the twin 6758 would be too laggy on a rb26 but well suited on a 2.8 or 3.0

I alays been a die-hard fan of twin application because.. well,, thats how the rb26 came out of factory.. but the more i think, it appears things have changed and single can be as responsive as the twin but cost less and easier to deal with if something is wrong.

I don't understand, you say the max flow is 310hp or 620hp then you say your SS-1 wheels gives 670hp which is less than the previous number and what the -5 can do.

so i was told someone managed to get 626whp at 18psi on a rb26 with twin 6258.. NOTBAD

i do have collars on my car, but I bought it like that so I can,t say if it made a difference or not lol.

Hello guys, I planned to buy every single bushing/metla spacer, along with their fan for my BNR32, order was about 200$ but shipping was 70$ to canada.. so I had second thought, my mechanic told me it was useless and I wouldn,t notice a difference beside maybe the shiftter metal collar. Whats your thought ?? Have you guys tries these item and felt a difference in the way the car handle/react ? thanks!

I believe the GTX28 are actually 10% more efficient for the same spoolup as the -5s but with new company and model, is there something even better or easier to bolt-on than the gtx28 which you have to relocate Powersteering and make new downpipe ? thanks

hahaha you know what I meant. of course if the engine was out, it would've been quite easy but now we have to work with tight space.

Recently , all I read is about the nimso diff. a friend of mine is offering me his used ats 1.5 way diff for sale so I'm wondering if I should buy this one instead of the nismo gt. are they pretty much all the same or the nismo is really a step-up ?

I have a bnr32 and the motor is inside the engine bay. You think a mechanic could work his way to make this ''universal'' alternator to fit ??

I don't know gtsboy, I enjoy driving the car and buy parts for it, but I would say 95% of the work done on it, I had it done. So I thought maybe by dropping the subframe or wtv else, it could possibly disturb my alignment by disconecting an arm, for exemple. All good! I already have the the subframe metal bushing. thank you. seems like hard pushing and diff are the only thing to do down there ! ( Just bug me that my good friend who's a mechanic think it's useless to change diff lol! He's a strong believer of '' if it aint broken, dont fix it'')

Hey guys, I want maximum traction for my BNR32 so I thought about buying a nismo GT 1.5way for the rear. I already have the new diff bushing. is there anything else I should consider swapping ''while I'm there'' ?? Thanks guy! Oh and BTW, Can I do my alignment right now or should I wait to do the diff because it will throw away my alignment ?

I see! thanks guy! I'm pretty much sold. I need to invest in these mods. whats the point of going faster if you cant put the power down ?

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$.. Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction. Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

Shift feeling better because of new diff bushing or new diff ?

was talking GTR, thanks. BNR32

Considering a diff rebuilt kit i 300 shipped and labor to shim/rebuilt it would easily be 3-4 hours at 90$/hour. wouldn't buying an used cusco diff be a wiser move ?? Actually the question I should ask is : does OEM diff lsd break with time or they work just as good till the break and don't work at all ?

If seibon could've of made a version of their TT-style hood without the giant hood scoop in the middle, I would be all over it. but since they don't do it. I was thinking about taking my OEM hood and fit them with r35 hood scoop. anyone done it before ? think it would look great?

Are you aware of a place where I could buy a copy of the Greddy/ Trust front bumper for BNR32 in abs or plastic or any other types than fiberglass ? Thanks.

Hello guys, I run a setup with all supportive mods of -5s. I have a RS*R downpipe which is 2x65mm to 1x 85mm. and r34 dump which are 58mm. I bought the greddy extensions which are longer dump pipe ( bit smoother flow perhaps?) 2x 68mm to 1x 80mm. No matter what the bottleneck remains the end.. 80mm exit. My plan was to cut the 80mm of the greddy and make it 100mm but it seems the gain will be minimal and will cost lots of money plus sound a lot noisier.... So let's say I stay with my 80mm catback. Would you guy still go to the trouble of installing the greddy extension pipe or should I just sell it back ? thanks for your input!

What kind of timing do you have after WM install ? I believe im +6 +4, some people tlak about 20.. so maybe I should ask my tuner to play more with timing ? 2) I have a CM7 injector from coolingmist installed in the intake, should I see a gain if I go direct port ?

sourcing 300zx boot is real easy but for R32 it has to be international. So.. are they the same? thanks!

Okay so I had an idea... whats your thought? You have a 2x70mm front pipe this equal to a 1x 100mm exit. What if I weld a ELECTRIC cutout just before the cat-delete so I keep my 3 inch cat-back but when I want that extra performance I open the valve and dump 1.5 inch before the cat making it fully flow-matched with the front pipe at minimal cost and still allow me to keep a low sound ( when not opening the valve)