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I'm already running r34 dump pipe. I thought the r34 were pretty much the same as the tomei so I never thought 3 inch dump pipe were sold. (beside going custom, I expect)

another ingenier post lol! but thanks frank for the clarification. but this information also prove that going 4 inch make no sens because the dump pipe will now be the restrictive point in the exhaust and by having -5 turbos you can't just change the air exit of the turbos. To my knowledge, the R34 dump pipe are as big as the ''hole'' of the turbos. Thanks for the information. My exhaust with an utra-quiet vibrant resonator, 1 straight magnaflow exhaust and the varex valve ( closed when needed) is enought quiet and I'm curious if a 3.5 with the same component would be that much more loud. Another thing, if I go 3.5. I doubt my sway bar will pass under the exhaust. could this be fixed by having shorter exhaust hanger ?

One thing I was wondering with 3.5 inch exhaust is the fact that the dump pipe is propably 3 inch or maybe even 2.5 inch. so even if I do get a 3.5. I don't see how they could flow more than the smallest piping ( the dump pipe). (I.E: you can have a 3.5 inch exhaust but if your running stock cat, your line is actually only 2.5 inch)

Nobody read the part where I said it was 3 celcius and I run regular sumitomo and I don,t heat up my tire right? I go to saus. because I think this is the biggest source of information concerning the skyline but lately, every SINGLE POST I make, I get bashed with stupid useless comment about how australian power is so much better than US reading. how our power is so UNREAL and yours is so realistic. whats the damn f*ck is wrong with you guys ? do australians have an ego problem or something? I'm here to ask question and learn from others people and within 2 post it turns out into a american dyno number bashing. BTW, My friend who is a way better driver than I am have stock turbos BNR32 with 340whp and do 12.1 run all the time. same tuner, same dyno. but he has azenis 615. Our ''local hero'' also have youtube video posted, showing a 9.9 run on -5 and stroked 2.8 managed a 634whp on the same dyno/tuner. So I will say it again, I'm not a good drag driver. I barely do more than 20 runs a year. it was 3 celcius, tracking was very poor and I run no slick. And I actually had a 160lbs passenger and I'm a true SQ fans so I do have 1 sub + 3 amps + front speaker and 100sq feet of sound deadener in the car, no a/c delete, no weight reduction at all. so yes I'm was propably around 160kg heavier than a regular GTR.

got tuned yesterday. its 3 celcius out there. traction is no good so very hard to tell how ir really drive. so far its good but was hoping for a little better kick in the seat. I managed a 11.8 at 121mph yesterday but like I said, traction was very bad, I was slipping so badly and I don't have any slick, just regular sumitomo tires. I'm in north america, not australia. What you mean no resolution ?

yup. dynapack reading 2wd.

Hey guys, I will post pictures/scan soon of my dyno graph but all in all, I managed 565whp at 23psi on -5 with poncam Type B and water meth. I was hoping 600whp-ish number. What I think I should change in the upcoming winter is: 1. Oem intercooler for a jdm intercooler 4 inch ( would I loose response if I do so?) 2. Change my BNR32 maf for Z32 maf or maybe the even bigger Q45 ? 3. Maybe I should consider changing my RS*R front pipe ( 3 inch) to a 3.5 inch and 3.5 inch test pipe but at the end of the piping, I would like to keep my expensive varex exhaust which is 3 inch. ( would I really gain something from going 3 to 3.5 inch?) Oh and I heard with water-meth you are allowed to run more timing on cam gear right? well we only did 4 degrees on intake and 2 on exhaust. should we have done more cam tuning ? All in all, I don't believe the extra 35whp will really be felt but breaking the 600whp club is sweet and I feel it can be done lol

I wll say it again ( I got bashed before on this forum). I don't care if ppl don't believe my number. I'm not a showoff and couldn't care less about bragging my setup/numbers online. Number are only for reference not for bragging. Fuel is 94 octane. So what I should do is get a Y pipe ( front pipe, we call it?) 3.5.. TRY to find a resonator 3.5 inlet and 3.0 outlet. That will be the hard part.

Made 520whp on GT-SS.Now, I just swapped to -5, added water-meth and charge pipe. Just wondering when the 3 inch exhaust become restrictive? ( Suck because I like the sound of mine and bought a 150$ ultra-quiet resonator as a test pipe, varex electric valve and one extra muffler, I heard that 3.5 inch exhaust sound a bit too rumbly isn't it ?)

i bought this thinking I was buying a cusco 2way unit. when we opened the casing.. it didn't look like aftermarket to us!

What kind of rebuild kit can I buy to rebuild my oem rear diff? maybe my front diff also. Could the Nismo 200 pack be good for this rebuild? thanks

this is what I think also. I doubt I should be too worried about this.

exactly. I had gt-ss,. bought -5 already. car beeing stored in 4 weeks no time for heavy custom works! and not sur eif the all the xtra hassle is worth the extra 50hp at this point)

My tuner had 2 gtr this year where the oil pump failed on the dyno.. he blame the ATI harmonic damper. both had it. one was a rr32 if I'm not mistaken but the other was a r34 with the good collar. He then warned me to go back to stock. Is it the oem pump problem or is it known that the ATI might not be as good of a solution as people think? Honestly, I blame both engine beeing 10yr old and pushed more than 500whp, maybe hitted limiter too many times, oem pump. Asking the guru at Aus.

Hello! install will be in a BNR32. I don't have acces to my car and when I will, I only have 2 days to swap the turbos so I need to have the oil feed/restrictor ready when I do the swap so please bear with me and dont tell me to look in the engine bay So what should be the correct lenght of the oil line? Next. I plan to go 23-24psi with these turbos, would tbe 1 bar actuator be up the task or should i go 17psi actuator instead? I also have a profecb2 thanks for the input!

Hey guys, I must say, I do not do track.. well maybe next year, I will try some lapping/time attack just for fun ( but it will be my first time, so I doubt I will be abusing the car too much). My setup right now: BNR32 with 17x9.5 with 245/40 sumitomo HTR Z3, Brembo R33 with DBA 4000 all around, HPS and SS lines Ate blue. Since I realise I could go 18x10.5 and it would clear, I got excited and was thinking about getting ''better traction tires'' for less tires spinning on the dragstrip ( something along the line of 265/35 star spec). With sticker tires and larger tires I would end up with a better traction. cost: about 1000$ ( including the fact I sell my actual setup + money to buy new set) Brake: Obviously, I will want to be able to fill up those bigger rims so I'm thinking a brembo kit 4 piston front and rear 355mm and buy myself some plain Brembo disc or buy back some DBA 4000 T3 clubspec. I think with an extra 600$ I should be able to cover the complete swap. But now do you guys think it's worth to pay 1600ish to add more brake ( maybe over-kill for my application) and a little better traction WHILE ALSO ADDING WEIGHT ( maybe an extra 5 lbs per corner x4 because its ''inertial/moving parts'' ) that might make my car less quick ?? Or Am I totally wrong?

^^ thanks for the valuable info, wasnt looking for that much option lol! but if I can only buy D2 caliper without rotor, I could be interesting and I would get myself some dba rotor.

Thanks scott!! you provided great info. However, I'm not willing to go that custom route just for an extra 50whp.

I don't either expect to make 150hp more with these compared to the gt-ss loll. I'm well aware.

It was late and didn't realise lol... my hope was to avoid the heavy modification required to make the gtx fit as I saw with dav's post.

hey guys!! anyone thought of taking their -5 and uprating them to these gtx? 2860 or 2863 ?

I spoke to a local turbo shop and they offered to convert my gt2860-r to the spec of the RS or even the gtx2863r. I understand what your means and your advice are great but I think I rather work around the -5 than the gt-ss. aybe I'm wrong but I think this way will be easier than the other way around.. not to say that the gt-ss have a good resale value.

anyone thought of taking a -5 turbos and have the turbine blade of a gtx2863r fitted ?

2.6. I'm doing spirited drive and drag mostly. I pretty much maxed my gt-ss so I decided it was time to go a step higher.. I will ask my tuner to play with timing so hopefully we can turn a little the powerband to the left and I might add a carbon shaft to try to get ake it as responsive as my actual setup but with the topend of these.