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Someone is selling his R33 Brembo brake kit that was on his 240sx. Would these lines fit on my BNR32 ? Right now, I have the OEM bnr32 brake setup with SS lines. would these fit? Or I don,t need both and need new lines?

Revival!!! So final answer, can I use my SS line of my BNR32 on brembo r33 brakes? I was told front would fit, but not rear..

that,s the thing.. At my local dealer, they sell 6 coilpacks for 300$ tax included LOLLLLL 2x cheaper than spitfire or 150$ less than yellowjacket. and my friend needed money quick and sold me his twin power for least than half the MSRP. I couldn't say no. Worst case, I will simply sell it back.

I did use the search function but all I found is built thread with people saying they have a DLI installed lol.. I bought a HKS DLI with the idea to buy a brand new set of coilpack to replace my 20yr old oem coilpacks. I know OEM coilpacks can be good up to 800whp. ( If I break the 500whp I will call it a day lol). I also know that brand new coilpacks can give you an extra 3-6whp. 1) Can coilpacks, after times ( in my case 20 yr old lol), becomes less efficient? Would a HKS twin power boost the spark and make them act like brand new coils? 2) Can I really see a gain if I get brand new OEM coils + the HKS DLI ? Or I'm better with only a new set? If both situation get the same result, I rather buy a set of coilpack then keep old coilpacks and add an extra metal box in my motor. Is it wise to change the coilpack loom while I'm there too?

Hahaha !! love those reply. very helpful! Thanks!

Little background : 400awhp, sard 700c, bnr32 oem fuel rail. What is the advantage of running an aftermarket FPR? and I heard the only bolt-on ( to fit on the OEM fuel rail) was the nismo one. Is it worth upgrading my oem FPR to the nismo one if I plan to hit the 500awhp? Please let me know your experience because, after a 30 minutes, it seems useless.. lol

And do I need a new BNR34 cas ? http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/?section=958#3231 650$ but I get a lil discount because I'm paying many parts.

I'm starting to collect parts for the rebuilt of my RB26 R32. We all know the oil pump weakness. However, from what I read, the real problem is not the pump itselft but rather the crank collar and the harmonic damper. 1) I should be hitting the 500whp max 550whp. 2) Will be doing some track and drag ( maybe once a month) 3) Already have an ATI 1000hp damper When people say keep it off the rev limiter, what is the limit? 8k or 9k? My rev limiter is set at 7.4k and doesn't bother me much. So, I think this won't be a problem either. I simply think that a greddy oil pump + the needed bigger pan is simply overkill for my built, type of use. Crankshaft ? Should I go with a brand new n1 crank for 600$ or get a crank collar for 300$ ? I think it's better to change to a brand new crank but will I still need to modify the new crank or it's a simple drop-in solution? Thanks for any help, feedback !

My friend gave me a ride in his -5 bnr32 rebuilt with type B some headwork port etc. Made 480whp. Such a monster,the pull when the turbo kick in is very aggresive. Sure the -5 might give more power for the same PSI as my GTSS. The headwork porting might help too. So dunno if I can conclude that his aggresive pull is related to his type b cam

sway bar only good for s13? more details on the oil cooler kit?

Let say, I buy a set of camshaft, do cam gear because useless? or there still a gain to be made?

thanks!

I keep reading and I tinhk the major difference between each company's kit is how they calculate the spray mixture. but please shoot me some info haha

Very confusing for a newbie like me.. Everybody say that Snow performance is cheaper than Aquamist.However when I compare the kit Aquamist is, in fact, cheaper. or else I'm mistaking something. Aquamist HSF-3. 700$ Come with the 52mm gauge to see flow and water level Come with low mixture level. Plug and play ( well the lil ecu) Come with Failsafe. Cons- I think the pump is not very good. Snow performance Stage 2. 500$ Pretty basic kit with a choice of 2 nozzle Cons: However they recommend for 25psi+ to upgrade to the VC100 unit. Failsafe and gauge is optional at 150$ each. No mixture level Snow performance stage 3. 690$ Comes with a gauge ( Personal preferance: the aquamist gauge is way better looking) that allow you to tune based on your MAP ( I'm not a tuner, I don't know what this means) For an optional 40$ you can get a second nozzle and it's suppose to increase fuel economy ( look nice but does it really work?) Cons: No mixture level sensor still no failsafe Please help me understand better these kits and their difference. I'm sure I'm not the only one who don't 100% understand these kit.

I saw your engine for sale.. Nice!!! But hey, you do have type-B and GTSS. did you run tthe type-b with the gt-ss? Before making this thread my mind wasn't set and I'm still not set ( Also thinking about water-meth). However, I do like the idea of better mid-range and I do believe this will make the car more responsive and more powerful even if at peak I only get 10whp more. And from reading what people have to says, it seems like the type-B will do that. I also read that PROCAM and greddy are ''better'' aka more HP but this is not my ultimate goal

I found out it's better to buy everything separately than buying cheap kit! Will do something similar to XRATED

Just wondering, someone is selling a kit for 250$ very tempting but.. I'm wondering if it's the same..

I will post my dyno graph this week-end but I know i don't have speed vs. HP so I can't compare but we did a 500kms ride with 10 Skylines ( all different power) and I was, no doubt, the quicker. but if I can get a 40lbs increase in the 4000-6500rpm range, I can't see why it wouldn't make the car quicker? I'm down for this increase ''kick in the butt'' feeling

so we are talking about a 20whp gain approx. ?

That's a good question!! I want to know the answer too.

Ok I guess It's important to mention that I will take the motor out and do a PARTIAL rebuilt, you know headgasket,forged piston and rods, crank collar, oil pump. basic rebuilt. so I thought while I'm there, why not change the cams and gain a bit more power?

I know it sound stupid but I had tomei cam gears fitted on the dyno but the tuner never played with them. I bought these because i got them for 150$. However, when I went on the dyno, the tuner said he would have to charge me like 1-2 hours to get the best out of them and at 220$/hour. I said..well forget the cam tuning lol! I wasn't expecting such a huge increase from cam gears tuning. Like you said, with camshaft, I might only get 10whp more peak but if I can get 30lbs torque and 40whp more at midrange(3.5 to 6k) I think it's really worth it and it will make driving more fun.

Well by looking at this chart from a supra tuner, it's pretty obvious that all 3 camshaft setup gives more power than the OEM setup. I expect the samething to happen to a rb26.

I already have tomei cam gears fitted.

I read every thread of the 8 pages on gtr.uk about camshaft. - I have a RB26 with GT-SS. almost no lag, very responsive and I like it this way! - So I'm looking at a camshaft that will give me more power without taking out the response or barely.. - I'm also looking for a good idle, (I'm aware that the smoothest idle would be my oem cams) - Drop-in cams is a big + over cams that need custom works to fit. Would the tomei poncam type-B be the perfect match for what I'm looking for? Thanks!