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jjr 150$... oem is approx. 500.. quite a price difference.

maybe... but got a good deal on a EWG setup.. and was told the difference between IWG and EWG was approx. 80whp by Full-race. Not ot mention the problem with the IWG tha tneed to be swapped for a turbosmart unit.. i just went ahead with the EWG deal I found..

If ever a found my EFR 83/74 1,05ewg with type-R cam not responsive enought, can i simply swap a 76/70 1,05 EWG in place on the full-race manifold and expect a more responsive rb26 ? Also, #2, I have a haltech ECU, would you rather keep your profecb2 EBC that act as a boost gauge at the time or use the EFR boost module and buy the boost solenoid to control boost over the haltech ?

Engine is out, would like to swap the 20yr old hose, how is the JJR kit ?? theyve been out fo r over 3 years surely some ppl must heard about them ? thanks !

or you could try to get a AG-Y tranny, their strenghtening SS690 box is going for 200k yen. Transfer case from AG-Y is another 80k. Add 2k for anothe rbran dnew clutch if you wish. youre at 5000k yen ( which is about 3.5us I believe right?) Your still paying about 3-4k more for this mod. I believe both box would be of same strenght, so you decide if the ratio/6speed is worh that extra money.

tell us how the 8374 drove ?? Really anxious to see how my 1.05 8374 will feel on my rb26 ( head will be slightly ported) ! If I don't like the spool, I will either go 7670 1.05 or IWG ( kinda stupid considering the money and time spend on fitting the dual wastegate and plumb back)

oh no, talking about the spool drain kit for oil. Already planned to plumb back my mishimoto baffled can to the rips sump.

oopsy, i've read a bit more about the drain head back and seem slike its not worth and could actually be worse than leave it like that.. guess i will pass on that mod !

hey guys, I totally forgot about the head drain back, should I go for the spool drain back which is thinner than the other ? the drinak back alone is 85.. while the kit is 195.. are the fititng and hose that much expensive ? should i just go for th ecomplete kit or make my own one ? Just saw the hi-octane sump weld-on.. hopefully i made the right choice with RIPS extension .. that hi-octane look really neat too

thanks ! Also, I noticed on the video you posted on FR's website about the rb26 and 83/74 the torque curve is HUGE between 4000 and 5000, is it because you ran some high duration cam ? Would stock cam make the powerband a bit more linear ?

Well we're pretty much set now, Something else came up to my mind, Wiringspecialist do ECU harness + tranny harness (tranny, starter,alternator) for 650usd. I'm wondering if it would be worth the price to swap this, your thought ? Haltech doesn't really use the knock sensor ( as I,M told by my tuner), i got their wideband kit, im MAP now and I have their igniter module with new oem harness and new oem coilpack ( maybe I should've gone with LS coilpack since some kit are now pretty bolt-on, but my tuner told me he was able to make 800whp no problem on new oem coils, so why bothers ?). Most of my remaining OEM sensor are new from last year. So basicly, the only thing not changed is the wiring.

any update on this ? I've seen 2 shop ( one in us and one in aussie) selling adapter kit for RBs for Z33/getrag gearbox, could be a better option than shopping for a AG-Y tranny or rebuilted OS gearset ?

thank you ! I should be doing some cleaning while the engine is out. I must ask, with either modification ( either yours or the R33 pump) will I need a new belt as well ?

hey guys, for the EWG Single RB26.. I heard that the R32 full-race rb26 manifold need a single stage powersteering pump ( from a rb20 or rb25) in order to clear some lines, is that true ? can we simply bent/replace the line in the way instead of replacing the pump ?

Hey , how it ended up with AG-Y ? Anyone know how to deal with them ?

BTW, Could you advice me on a ''fair-priced'' fuel delivery for rb26 ? i already have nismo reg, 1000cc injector and fuel pump.

Please correct me, if you launch, isnt the load/shock on the tranny more important while shifting till 4th.. instead of simply acceleration at 30kmh ? With that said, I appreciate all your input, I found 1 tranny shop near me that does supra, evo, GTR and review are excellent, they can modify synchro and such... but no mention of 5speed gearbox, waiting for their reply.. If not, I'm really interesting in a Autogallery rebuilt. If I go AG-Y, i will surely be asking more question ( the oem kit without cross-gear is not bad at 225k yen. but if you add center plate ( 90k) + input shaft (90k) + cross-mission ( 190k) its a different story ! Might just go with the oem refresh kit with double synchro + T-case rebuilt and fit a OS giken center plate since its cheaper.

alreayd bought my coppermix so hopefully it can take away some slack like other said.. and shift a bit more kindly than smashing gear.

Hey J, i will ask my mechanic to do it, bu tplan is to copy nismo setup, they sure know better than me how to set it up right ! I will only be running octane + water/meth. I will look into the box but from now, my plan were to buy new synchro (300$) and shot peen/WPC input + gearset which would cost approx. 1000$ + labour... when you factor other option at 3k$ for a OS closegear, might as well go with that.. or i could even ask AGY to rebuild one for me with their double synchro and treat myself. At this time, i think its best for me to simply find a good rebuilded box on the used marked and be patient... in the mean time, i will be kind and not launch the car.. if it break. i will find another used box for 400$..

sorted the oil issue ; + I went with a Mishimoto oil/air /catchcan plumbback in the sump ( neat item) I'M looking at fuel line and rail.. and an already built gearbox i could buy from yahoo auction. ( I don't want to rebuilt one or buy anything in the +6k like ppg and stuff)

I'm kind with my gear. I've been on a -5s setup for the last 3 season and it still shift relatively smooth, never needed to add some shockproof redline stuff.. and I sincerely hope that my EFR won't be laggy

I'M opening it, shot peening and cryo the gearset /input shaft + new synchro set that will be touched as well.

yup this is what i wanted to do but like my mechanic pointed out, the efr 83/74 exit at 3.5inch so he said theres no real advantage beside pricier and bulkier to fit a 4 inch downpipe. Then I told him it was for the plumb back and said well... yeah okay we could but i would stay 3.5inch all the way still.

Regarding the trust sump... RIPS offer a pre-weld kit.. looks like a better option lol Yes I do a pre-welded kit that you then weld into your sump, they are nzd695 + shipping. The sit only about 5-10mm lower than stock (doesn’t go below the x-member) but are a lot wider, they have a surge tank and baffles and hold an extra 1.5 to 2 liters. We use them on all our high power wet sump motors.

new nismo gt and in the rear i got a stellar deal on an ats metal 1.5