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i guess this is what happens when you first install a pair of gt-ss on your rb26 lol...

interesting post. thank you. guess i will stick to the 60mm billet haha

timing belt skipped 9 teeths.. head is dead..

So it's definitive. I need to pull the engine out. If I ever decide to stay rb26, I will be doing the pure turbos billet 60mm upgrade ( which I believe I will be the first one or the first one to give actual feedback on the internet). However, if I go RB28... I'm tempting to go 63mm considering the excellent result/feedback one of the member on SAU gave us regarding his gtx2863 on his rb28. I know I said form the beginning, my goal is ''quick response'' so I'm thinking if I go 60mm billet, it should spool quicker than the 63mm and quicker than my actual -5s/rb26 combo. But if I could get anywhere close to his result with the gtx2863.. damn a jump of approx. 100whp in the mid-range would be crazy for the kick in the butt!

Hey guys, I'm trying to find a complete gasket kit made of metal, is it even possible ? I know the tomei kit include, throttle and both manifold. The cometic kit say some are metal, some are paper, doesn't really give much information lol.. Tried a search on ebay.. all i see is the tomei kit lol...

i stand corrected

I want to ask : OEM is low impedance, side-feed ( if im not mistaken right ?) All these bosch appears ot be high impedance, top-feed. how is that suppose to be bolt-on ? BTW, i'm running a haltech ecu if that make things easier for me to make the switch.

I'm kinda torn between buying this spline gear set for my N1 pump or a High-flow oil pump.

yes, correct !

since the introduction of this bracket for ls2, im so tempting to do it althought I own a haltech HP6 igniter and brand new oem coil with brand new harness and don't notice any miss-fire lol... darn SAU!

I was wondering if one brand have came up with a plug-in application for Nissan RB26 ( oem fuel rail) yet ? If not, where are you getting yours from ? ID, deatchwearks ? thanks for the head up

with these gears, in which situation would a JUN/tomei pump be better than a N1/STD uprated with these gears ?

LOL, if RIPS charge 20-30k when everything is taken into account (shipping overseas, installation, fitting 4wd plate etc etc), without looking any further, I doubt this rb34 is close ot be as easy as a std stroker rb28-29 LOL So yeah.. A little too extreme for me

No worries, I appreciate your input, but yeah, i already took all the shipping/tax factor in account.

Tried searching in this forums and within the first page i was down to 2008.. not sure if i get it right but oh well. From my research, the tomei kit is the cheaper of the bunch but also the one who doesn't have a full counterweight crankshaft ( i believe ? or is it 8 vs 12 ) and have their recess cooling channel on the piston. The BC crower kit is about 1k$ more but feature approx. 60cc more and a better crankshaft from what I've read. HKS step 1 feel a bit over-pricey. I know tho, the step 3 is quality but very expensive. Spool import kit seems like a copy/samething as the BC crower, only thing the BC is cheaper and easier to supply for me. There's also another aussie brand ( sorry, i have a blank) that claim to make the best stroker because the lenght of the rod is the same as factory, but I remember it was like 2-3k more than the tomei kit. Wondering how important this specification is or.. in the real world, it doesnt really make a difference. Feel free to correct me or guide me through option. BTW, my motor was alreadly forged to 86.5mm but we believe we need to redo the ringland and i thought.. well might as well stroke it this time.

Totally agree. However, before spending some coins.. ( mostly around 100$) just to get it on the dyno, i thought i would ask here if anyone ever experimented this kind of ''symptom'' before. Fitting a rb30 under the hood is no fun AND RB30 are really not as cheap as it is in Aus. We pay a lot more for these + all the shipping involded. I actually don't have anything ( well.. i didn't ask him when i left the dyno at 2am) but could ask him to send me some data by email.

you mean the dyno sheet aka both curves ?

In a lifespan of 18 month ( ish!) and about 7000 kms. My car produced 70whp less on the same dyno, same setup. - Timing : we thought we skipped a teeth, but I didn't. - Turbos : Mechanic said I have a oil seal leaking which means the turbos are wearing out prematurely, maybe I lost a few whp/spool right there. - Compression : we did a dry test and some were 145, while other were 160 or 155. My mechanic then told me I should re-do the test with oil and see if I don't have a bad ring because a 15psi variation is huge in his opinion. I could be loosing WHP here.. - Exhaust: I have a very quiet exhaust, all my GTR's friend tell me that. I live downtown and want to draw little attention from cops so I'm quite happy with how my GTR sound. The system consist of R34 dump pipe (58mm), downpipe 2x 70mm to 1x85mm, ultra-quiet resonator 80mm ( which replace the oem cat), straight piping to a 80mm ultraflo muffer straight, to finally exit by a 80mm varex exhaust. He think that the fiberglass packing inside all these resonators/muffler could wear out and create some sort of turbulance which could result in a slower spool and maybe a 20-30whp lost. I'm not really interesting in going 2x70mm to a 1x90mm because I'm happy with how the exhaust sound and spend good coins for all theses components. But I thought, I could probably just install an exhaust cutout valve before the resonator. OR I could buy another resonator and swap my muffler with new unit. P.S: For people who remember my desire to go single with a EFR and such.. with the lower compression my motor is pulling, I'm leaning toward putting my money on a rebuilt engine than a 7k turbo kit and I thought while I'm rebuilding the engine, might as well go with a stroker kit

^^ if fg500 can't knock it.. then your sanding wasnt up to par.

what airbox he had before ? curiosity.

-5s housing ! I also feel the same.. but you know.. if the lag is going to be 200ish rpm and your gaining an extra 40hp/turbo.. it's interesting lol.

I'M back again with more news... mechanic told me my oil seal is leaking and if i dont change it, turbos will need rebuild. Since I'm not doing any mechanic on my car, i thought.. if im going to pay labour $ to have my seal/gasket redone, I might as well check my turbo and swap them with brand new turbos to recover optimal performance of the car. I found out about a company called Pure turbos.. They ask 1100$ to have both turbos rebuilt with new brass cage and new billet wheel. ( they say it will be as good as brand new turbos , if not better due to brass cage and billet wheel) Now heres where i need your help... they offer me a 60mm billet wheel which should yeild a 40hp/per turbo upgrade ( probably taken from the gtx2860's figure) and a 63mm which would yeild 80hp/per turbo. They say turbo spool shouldn't be noticeable and if it was their engine, they would go 63mm. I'm scared the 63mm will actually be too laggy and i have doubt about their claims on spool. if I had 2.8 stroker.. it would be a different story, but I'm only on a rb26 with 86.5mm.

hey guys.... big upgrade.. here's part 1 !! Okay i'm about to drop the *bomb*... till then first part here!! Une version française va possiblement venir au fur et à mesure, mais au moment d'écrire ce thread, j'ai décidé de le faire en une langue seulement car je crois que j'en ai BEAUCOUP à dire et la traduction couperait le beat solide de la progression de mon thread ! So... what happened since 2010 when this thread/car won best of show thread from Autogeek's staff ? Well.. I simply maintained the car while the car attended some car show. The car had little respray due to new addition like greddy rear spat and M3 mirror style. I had to match the orange peel with the rest of the car but nothing major. In 2011-12, Chemical guys gave us a free pot of Chemical Guys Celeste dettaglio V2 to thanks us for letting them use some of our pictures for their new ads. Cool! Another ''award'' from this detail And there comes 2013... CATASTROPHE!! The car had his fender rolled.. However 2 fender out of 4 cracked.. leaving paint cracked and not looking too pretty.. the rear spat fitting done by the bodyshot wasnt too pretty... Long story short, about 40% of the car got resprayed! So, I didn't get to detail the car before the respray was done. Make sens right ? Then.. the day the respray happened, the color-match was HORRIBLE!!! I mean seriously horrible... So, the painter agreed to re-do the job and apologize. However it took 3 weeks due to vacation and busy week. fast forward 3 weeks later.. I finally got to see the car repainted correctly, but with nasty orange peel : If you don't know what orange peel are, they are pretty common when you get bodyshop work done on your car, you will get these kind of reflection from the paint. Sometimes it's worse than other and depending on the color of the car it show less or more. So think about an orange and how wavy the peel is.. and now look at these pictures: Look closely at the reflection of the wall and the sky on the trunk.. can't you see the reflection is wavy and not clear ? And now... does one side appears to be MUCH MORE clear than the other ? And now here's a close up... orange peel : No orange peel ( or very minimal) crystal clear reflection : To achieve this kind of finish, we need to go through an exhaustive process that takes hours to achieve. We first need to wet-sand the paint using a ''coarse'' grit ( coarse for finishing paint but not coarse if you were to perform bodyshop job like grinding paint!) to actually level the paint by knocking off the peel effect on the paint. Imagine the paint as a mountain.. every high spot is actually what we call the peel/wavy effect. What I need to do is sand those mountain/high spot to level the paint so that I obtain a paint that doesn't have any high-spot. Like this: After that you will realize that some contamination might have stuck INTO the paint.. that's what we call ''grain''. It's actually small dust particle that get trap on the paint during the paint curing inside the paint booth. So far from what I saw.. no matter how hard the bodyshop try to avoid them, they're will always be a few trap on the paint. To correct this, you need to use another speciality tools with coarser grit paper that will knock these grits individually: ( this process can be very long!) Once everything is done.. meaning the orange peel is removed and we achieved an uniform ''matte'' looking paint, it's time to refinish the paint using a finer coarse paper. Usually these paper will have a foam backing so they will contours the mountain instead of ''knocking them'' and leveling them. The problem with the first and second step is that the paint is very hazy/matte looking. In order to bring back the shine, you need to refinish the paint ; this means that the finer grit will be able to remove the coarser grit I just put on the paint. ( ie: If you have #1000 grit, you need a #2000 grit to remove the #1000 grit and then, you could use a #3000 or #5000 grit to remove the #2000 grit you created before). So this is how the paint looked after a #3000 grit pass: Remember how it looked once fully polished ? Oh gosssshh!! isn't that pretty ? Some ferrari and uber-expensive car don't even have that kind of clarity in their paint! As you can see, the problem with wet-sanding is not to level the paint or remove the orange peel, the real challenge ( and this is what set a part the real detailer to the ''other'') is to finish the paint to a PERFECT finish without leaving any compounding haze, small dust particle, pigtail, sanding mark etc. So after I was done with the trunk, I started working the rear fender: And I was done for the day...................................... Well not exactly.......... 1 hour later after leaving the bodyshop. this happened: f**k !!!!!! So basicly, we had to respray the car twice to get it done, I already worked 5-6 hours into the paint and then comes this accident... The damage ? - corner light - headlight - rebar - leaking intercooler - destroyed bumper - bended frame Someone offered to repair the fiberglass bumper, he said he would do the rought part and then a bodyshop would just have to sand it and put some body filler and prep it: Well.. after doing 3 different bodyshop, not one wanted to work with this bumper, they all said the repair was too rought and not worth going over. they would have to start over.. Oh great! More time and money wasted. Then someone offered to trade a headlight to help the owner repair his car. Next thing we knew is that Nissan decided to make 2 different type of headlight in the little 5 yr timespan the R32 existed. As you can see here, notice the DRL not the same and one take H3C while the other take H1: So while the headlight were out, I was asked to paint the inside of the light black instead of chrome to achieve a meaner look: Looking prettier isn't ? It took me about 5 hours to do.. remove the cover, polish inside the cover with a glass polish, polish the outside with a glass polish and glass polishing pad, sand the chrome and give multiple coat of paint, then I had to re-seal the cover with urethane we use at my shop for windshield. You think we were done hen!??! Well no... i left the headlight on my drying machine and went to grab my camera to take some pictures, when I was in my room I heard a big '' smash''.... yes... one headlight fall off the drying machine and the cover being glass.. broke again!!! Believe it or not.. I had to supply another glass cover because it was totally my fault.. Basicly, I didn't make a penny doing this mod.. Rebar was bought at a JDM shop, Intercooler were upgraded to a bigger Greddy unit, corner light were replaced for a pair of smoked clear corner by jdmgarage. Now into the bend frame... we went to a bodyshop i don't wish to name on the south shore of montreal ( but maybe I should...) and they took the car 2 months to fix the frame... Here's how the car came back to the bodyshop: Hood hinge could barely close, headlight was still 1 inch pushed inside the hood. nothing aligned right, huge gap between the headlight and corner light.. What we latter found out is that they simply shimmed the fender and other parts of the body to make it ''close'' but that it!! What a f**kin shame... and they call them professional bodyshop... oh and they also did this beautiful glue job free of charge........ In the mean time, the rear bumper got damaged from someone.. maybe at the bodyshop! So imagine how the owner felt ; He used to have a uber-clean skyline and out of a sudden, he get 2 respray because the first one isnt done right. Then, he try to fix the bumper but have to be redone, get his headlight done and then by accident i smash one, then he get his frame fixed and learn that he have to get it redone... what a shitty year!! Beside maybe this funny moment lol.. We shared a pic bumper-less with a Veyron So the car went into storage like that.... Part 1 done... stay tuned for part 2 ( which is what was done for 2014!)

guess i will go BC racing.. theres a 9pgae thread on here saying this suspension is good for the money. good thing i found this thread.

I'm suprised by this result sean. say, the response is the same but power top end slightly improved would make sens but the fact that the gtx was slower to spool. do you have a clue as to why is that ?? On a RB28, someone posted here his midrange improved by close to 100whp and spool was pretty much the same, if im not mistaken.