eeiko321

link doesnt work!

Im not 100% sure.....the series 2 Non-V-spec may have the TV button on the Deck also as the manufacture may have changed contractors when they were assembling series 2. some other itty gritty things were different like the Electric Mirror adjustment knob shape etc. anyhow back to MFD this site has alot of info about the MFD..... and the KEY to the Wires leading to which sensor etc... http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_pos...3160&KW=MFD let us know how you go..

12 - 16,000... could land you a decent R32 GT-R or a good R33 GTS-T with extras id say either GT-R or nothing

yeah i know what your talking about........a loud high pitch *CRUNK* sound whilst doing a U-turn or something? the Rack and pinion.... very common in dated cars something may need tightening or lubing..... try it again when the car is stationary.......... have a look underneath when you get someone to turn it.....

sometimes the bulbs need replacing...... very common in older cars.......especially around the aircon/heating controlls.....

well how long is a peice of string???....... it depends on what sort of muffler or "resonator" (is the middle "THING") id say give it a few weeks and see......... because some aftermarket exhausts...inside the muffler contains a plastic bag than holds the material.......and when it melts after use...it can be a fraction louder..... but somtimes with new exhausts...its more barky when new...but when it fills up with carbon it can quiet down a little. so give it a couple of weeks..... then take it to an exhaust shop......they can cut/weld anything as for your question......yes ive removed Cats, resonators etc on my exhausts..... resonator is designed is a small muffler that helps reduce sound. its no big deal if you rid it.

dont bother with genuine OEM nissan parts they would be over the roof in pricing wise...... usually nismo parts are hell expeisnve..... who knows.... $2,000 - 4,000 even? and $2,000 to me is worth more than that GTS-t car..... LOL id say go to a bodykit place and get an aftermarket copy.......... they are usually $300 +/- for a pair but they come unpainted........ where are you from? a place who sells cheap kits are CARMATE in villawood...........

what sort of car is it? AWD or RWD? it could be a no# of things..... CV joint if its a front wheel or some AWDs could be debris & needing greese in the rack & pinion or it could be rubbing of tires to the guards or the mud guard.....but whats "krrrR" is it a high pitch metal creaking sound? a rubbery grinding sound? you need to be more specific with the sound cause we cant hear it..

so what your saying is....when it ticks... it seems like its drawing power, affecting the luminosity of your headlights? does your electic windows work? & if you have the automatic door lock...does that work properly? sounds strange, the only thing that draws a bit of power through your doors is the electric window motor...but still...it shouldnt drain that much power to the extent of noticable lighting difference?

lol yeah i was about to say as well is his name really "Jacky Chan"?! ROFL

yeah i know what you mean dude... ive noticed this on some forums... its either: 1.) the person who says that is what you call a "post whore" ..someone who tries to post as much as they can to up their post counts ###, regardless if thier posts are helpful or not 2.) There are a no# of people on forums who somehow get affected by NEWBIES asking questions..that obviously have been asked before. just because the that person has seen the post before...doesnt mean the newbie has... some people actually comment by "use some initiative and search".... then i just think....well its a free forum...people can say or ask anything they want... as long as they dont break the rules. and some forums sticky things saying "newbies please be curtious and use search". which i think is crap also... sometimes people have a serious question to ask...and due to that question is why they signed up to this forum...they need the answer there and then... but still its not an offence if they ignore that and ask anyways... anyhow all good, i wasnt affected by your post... as you see through all posts, i always try and explain myself as clearly as possible....never have i said to do stupid searches.

yeah i dont think its got to do with anything regarding the clutch things like this are more likely the throttle position sensor...AAC ... blocked vaccume hoses can also produce this affect...and ECU faults can do this as well.

ROFL! yeah when i watched it i didnt know to whether to laugh or to cringe. but in the end i kinda found it funny lol (the way the guy reacted)

so when your car is in neutral and stalls... on alot of cars...tbe the throttle position sensor may need cleaning. what sort of car or maintenance on the engine?

what do u have on, now?

+1

yeah the symbols can be pronounced with IPA (International Phonetic Alphabet) in other words... crazy language!

well seems like everyone is coming up with all different sort of advice rather than guessing and wondering....lets start by testing with the multimeter if the Alternator is charging FIRST. because if your gonna ask them to replace another battery...they could say your alternator is not charging it. here is a simple guideline: 1) Start Car and run at a normal idle. 2) Connect a multimeter Directly Across the battery Terminals. 3) Turn on Headlights to High Beam. 4) check the battery Voltage. The Battery voltage Should read between about 13.8 to 14.2 volts. (Possibly up to 14.5 Volts.) 5) Increase motor speed to about 1500 RPM. The Alternator should now produce a battery voltage between 14.2 and 14.6 Volts. note: If it is Lower than 14.2 volts, the Alternator probably has one or more Bad Diodes. 6) Now, Maintain the 1500 RPM and Turn off the Headlights. Run this test for One Full Minute. "The Battery Voltage should NEVER Exceed about 14.8 Volts". note:If it Does, the Alternators Voltage Regulator is probably Faulty, OVER CHARGING the Battery. anyways......let us know if you have troubles understanding this and ill run you through it

well if i were you, i would double check that the R34 GT-R boot and wing is exactly the same as the GT-T and to be honest...alot of the R34 GT-R parts actually differ to the GT-T..like front bumpers, rear bumpers etc. headlights even differ aswell... otherwise your gonna be in the same position with something that doesnt fit and end up trying to customize it

let me guess? a defect notice? hmmm

firstly, im sorry to hear of your misfortune. what you've confused me again...is: a dodgy mechanic did the timing belt...and did some sort of full service. and changed the water pump and supposedly regreased some bearings. but you've told us that this was the cause. though in your second post ...it may not be hes dodgy work but a "Friend" of yours...(im guessing who isnt the mechanic) removed the plenum, throttle body etc and since he did that...thats the culprit? its hard to say withought seeing, but can you get access to it?...open the cover and see if its over tightened... a good way to tell if it is the pulley.. you use a rod or a long screwdriver..place it on the nut that pivots the pulley and put it against your ear to listen. it should have a smooth even sound.... hmmmm well did he clean the throttle body?..are you sure he knew what he was doing?...sometimes things can get jammed in it whilst cleaning, causing irregular idle. i would inspect everything again. what does the idle on the RB25DET on your user handbook say? and by the way...which mechanic is it?.....you may warn other fellow members to steer clear from this mechanic...

scenes? i think you've been living in blue mountains for too long! well id never bother learning jap...it just looks so confusing...Katagana looks like some form of spelling as well as Hiragana. and apparently they are set in different orders or something. just imagine memorising all that...as well as the Kanji... mate, forget about it.

i seriously wouldn't bother... from memory i came across the OEM R34 GT-R rear wing.... had a price tag of $2,240 i wasn't 100% sure because it indicated a "Nismo" flap... as the GT-R wing has a carbon flap. unless it meant the price was ONLY for the aerodynamic flap?!?!?!!? then thats rediculous...And OEM parts are sometimes known to be rediculous... i recall the shitty factory stock radio on a R33 GTS-t was around $900+gst OEM parts, especially for something like that....will be around that price.... why waste the money? your better off buying fibreglass Replica of it.. here is one from EBAY that is selling around 120 US$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-SKYL...sQ5fAccessories id say go this one...it will be unpainted...but it states that they can actually supply a painting service to suit your car and it says its "universal" so it most likely fits your car... where as I'm not sure if the GTR wing will exactly fit GT-T without adjustments

apparently the quality appears to be very good here, have a look http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FN0URqg8iN8