tridentt150v

Just under 260rwkw, about normal for that setup I'd say. Progressive power and linear boost, turbo comes on a little slow, but that is also normal for that setup. Need to add more boost - once you have the injectors.

Just another day in paradise where I am.

Not sure about the turbo, but what prize do we get for guessing the right figure? BTW that turbo doesn't sound any larger than a 3076 with 100mm front and 82mm exhaust, but the wheel and blade size and shape will tell a lot.

dollar for dollar, I reckon a street car is better off with the 25 head with VCT. You get the benefit of all that extra torque coming on progressively and earlier. And for a road registered street car you couldn't want for a better package. It's the way I was/will be going. with WMI and a forged unit and the right turbo you've got to be good for 350-450rwkw and thats healthy for a rwd.

No, you have to get someone to make up another flange that will take a split dump and machine a hole and stuff for your actuator spindle to bolt on to and work through it, or they may be able to use the existing flange and modify it to do all this. Another way is to weld the wastegate closed and go with an external gate. BTW I can't see that turbo hitting the engine mount from those photo's, but they sometimes hit the exhaust manifold. You usually have to use a scaper plate and longer studs to mount it to the manifold.

Plenty of time, I'll pencil it in and see what happens.

wastegate creep???

$700 for an energy drink..........wow thats some caffeine hit!!!

1. You can't use a split dump with that turbo unless you get a custom flange made up because your actuator pivot goes through the existing flange. The turbo has a flange, but if you unbolt it you also disable the wastegate if you get my meaning. It will cost a bit to get it modded and wouldn't be worth it. 2. The turbo hitting on the engine mount, wouldn't have thought it was low enough, but hitting on the manifold maybe [uI'll need to see the photo's again. I'll answer this again later. 3. If this turbo is a plain bearing unit - and it looks like it - then you won't need an oil restrictor. What you will have to do is remove any restrictor that you do have becuase journal bearing turbo's need the oil flow. Will it do any good to say get rid of it, it will cost more $$$$ than its worth?

bump

As per PM-R33. Your tank doesn't need pressure to work. Thats what a fuel pump does.

water in your fuel???

asks about gapping spark plugs and straight to a nitrous install, you got audacity chalky, I'll give you that

Steven, I thought that but just wanted it confirmed by someone that knows or has done the same, thanks mate. Almost there, just have to wait for an alloy mounting plate for the bottle [being made up], then I reckon I'll get the bottle plastic welded with a new filler neck to come out the side.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_gap

SP stage 3

take out your spark plugs, use a feeler gauge set [buy a set for around $15, can get bigger better sets for more], and squeeze your plug gap down to 0.80mm, it will be set to 1.0-1.1mm std. Ask someone to show you how it's done, once your shown its easy, annoy your lawnmower shop or something [anything with a sparkplug], with a plug spanner, feeler gauges, and a spanner set for other bits and pieces, you'd get it done inside an hour or so.

Is better to mount the solenoid closest to the motor or to the reservoir in a boot mount? Logic tells me in doesn't really matter. However if I did park on a slope I'd still get the fluid out of the hose between the solenoid and the nozzle jet gravity feed into the motor. If I mounted it close to the nozzle jet then this would not occur, but there could be a latency between feed and supply for normal use as the flow travels along the hose length.

regap your plugs to 0.8mm

car mats, and the false wall in the boot, the one that hides the battery?

They usually have 'O' rings on the adaptor or flange nut. Don't need teflon, just a new 'O' ring.

Boost gauge now out.

Sounds more like a stuck lifter, if it was a big end the noise and knock level should get worse when you accelerate. But also, if you still get white smoke [not cold start vapour], it could be a head gasket, just a little hole with a ticking/tapping noise - it will get worse. Your knock levels are more likely a measure of the noise than any real leaning out.

If you look at the photo's the needles are at maximum - not at zero. No idea what is wrong with them, no idea how fixes them, try the yellow pages, maybe Olympic in Pymble, but I don't know. Basically for those gauges you buy a sensor and get a free gauge, plus a lot of second hand jap auction and ebay gauges have no sensor with them, this lets people that buy them get a cheap sensor. I know for a fact that new GReddy/Trust sensors are approx. $80 for the oil temp and $216 for the exhaust temp units.

Re PM's: Please note my trader rating, I'll give a money back guarantee [as I do with all sales] supporting this sale. If I say its working then its working and inversely if I say its not working then it isn't, but could be repaired if you know someone or have the skills.