tridentt150v

you'll also see a light flashing its tits off in the right hand upper corner of the dash - its an orange engine silhouette. This light is set to begin flashing at around a knock level of 50-60 BTW pining is something your gf does when she can't have Brad Pitt and has to settle for you.................lol

front parkers? lie on your back and stick your head under the front bar and push and twist, and the fitting should come out, do it from the back or rear of the housing, but I have a '98 and they are slightly different.

flush your radiator out, better done by a radiator workshop, but you can do a half decent job yourself with the right products and good water pressure.

Clutch shudder can be 'hot spots' on the pressure plate. Usually caused by someone slipping the clutch a lot. You can machine them out, but this doesn't always work. For the hassle I'd buy a new one and be done with it. When you accererate in in 1st and 2nd are you going hard/fast or gentle/normal takeoff?

Look on the bright side.........when your car gets defected and you have to take it across the pits............when you finally loose the last points on your license...............you'll have plenty of time to rebuild that motor!!!

There is something on this problem on the maintenance section of the forum, try there.

Well i wondered how it worked anyway............I could see straight through mine, and could blow through it as well.......didn't seem to be doing much check valving. Also when I installed it, the pump still primed up anyway, so I reckoned it was pretty useless, cos it's supposed to keep the prime up. I didn't notice any diff whatsoever when I removed it.

Isn't this a sensor for the ECU? You can't use it for your gauge?

As above, I put mine in and then had some issues that turned out to be a fuel reg, but I'd taken it out while I was searching for the fault and never put it back in.

Try searching, or looking at the RB25 results thread, heaps of info on what you are asking and also other component parts [wastegates, FMIC's, boost controllers etc etc]

Nissan make a heap of products for this. Just go down and order a new seat and dash combo pack!!! Sorry, otherwise I'm with Terry, but lets face it you don't really love your car if you don't fart in it at least once a day...............sorta shows your appreciation.

What boost you running.........could be plug gap>>reset to 0.8mm and try again maybe

Your probably better off fitting it yourself, setting the basic tune, and then getting a pro to dyno it in - save a heap of $$$$ And if you look at ebay USA, you can see the relative prices of each kit. This will help you as a guide as well. I wouldn't think fitting would be a cheap thing to pay for.

And you can set your knock display and see it as it happens as well.

WMI comes up a fair bit, and a few of us are using it or intend using it, wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to have a permanent thread on it???? Might answer a few questions before they are asked.

Who ever complied your car did a sh!t job on the filler neck maybe. When they comply Skylines they have to replace the filler and filler cap area with an ADR approved unit. Sometimes they don't fit it up properly, you get leaks at the join, and a bad join that is not smooth or has been restricted. No saying this is your problem, but worth looking at.

I used: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...op-t214522.html

Give me a month and I'll fit my SP SIII Boost Cooler kit up and tell you how it is........I've got the kit, but I'm waiting on some time off work [working 7 days a week atm] and a set of gauges before I remove the inner gaurd and push it all through the firewall. Once I've fitted it, I'll tune it and see what I've got, but expect around 300+. Gtst with 3076 WG and pretty much all the supporting bolt on mods - can't get motivated to tear dwn a perfectly good engine just yet, so except for Tomei sticks its untouched. PS don't hold your breath though, took me 8 months to fit up a SK Billie kit and swaybars etc, I'm slow, wouldn't want to get paid by the hour for any mechanical stuff atm..........lol

I've got one with a HKS cast low mount, good turbo, bit lazy at 270rwkw though. They have good potential to for +300, but you need a built motor, head gasket, or WMI to eliminate knock. But I like the headroom, lets you play and progress the power without having to change turbo's too soon. Only change I would have made was to the larger 0.82 exhaust side, the 0.63 may be more responsive, but it is also more restrictive - you loose your headroom. And Disco, I didn't know you wanted pics of the cover, I've got one sitting on my shed bench, never used it, could have taken pics any time - hell you can borrow it if you want.

you lost me at 'integral wastegate'

It'll all work out, in another few years wewill be electing Gen Y pollies and then watch the fun begin!!! The silly thing is, no matter how many laws, no matter how hard you try, you cannot protect an idiot from himself>>>>>>>>>>they always build a better idiot!!!! If its not fireworks then they will find something else, can anyone remember 'car surfing'. Unfortunately our civil liberties have been eroding for years and we have done nothing to stop it, couple of bitches and moans and next week its all forgotten. I think we will all be microchipped next...................at least I won't have to remember my PIN number then.

Stuttering...........try speech therapy!!! Sounds like coil/spark related otherwise. Might be just water in your spark plug well shorting your spark out on your head? If you drove it for a while you'd evaporate the water and it would come good.

viscious

Why do you want to use 2-3 washers???? One will do fine, anneal it before you use it, a bit of teflon paste wouldn't hurt, but not really required. I only use teflon tape on bathroom taps. There is a section in the CD manual on changing coolant, plenty of copies around. But basically any good quality and recommended coolant will do it. Don't forget to loosen the air bleed nut on top of the motor to remove airlocks etc.

Knock levels will be your limiting factor, without lowering your compression or WMI you will get knock. The combinations that can run more than say 18psi without big knock numbers on a std motor are rare [not impossible]. The more you ask for the worse it will get. You can wind up the boost, but then you'd have to wind back the timing, so you could be no better off and probably worse than if you hadn't bothered. But as the others have said - too many worms in the can to say for sure, its not a general rule.