tridentt150v

Only turns on when the car temp rises and it needs it. Otherwise all your fan air comes from the motor driven unit. If your doing say 40km/h, there is enough airflow so that neither fan is on - no fan is working. Its only in traffic and stinking hot days that the fan needs to work.

And off a SII, I'd take it but I'm too far away.

Owsley

attack [for massive] that means that a car or a truck would be bigger than a half or quarter moon? You'd honestly wonder how septics got to rule the world???

In a SII, you have good wiring for the pump. Only thing I'd do is run a separate earth strap from the pump to the body at the pump. Otherwise I agree with mad082

Did you run a separate earth? fi you just replaced your pump and the car is playing up, I'd start there. PS did it do this before you replaced the pump?

A 10a fuse won't take the load you are putting on it, esp. as it cuts in. by rights shouldn't be working at all. Get on their web site and ask, I'm sure it's a 60a [can't find the paperwork, I must have passed it on when I sold the vehicle]. I rang them and they told me [it was like 8 years ago then], there was a phone number at the bootom of the instruction sheet/warranty. Spinning the wrong way will make your car heat up at lights and in traffic, if your driving down the road at anything over 40km/h it won't matter, the air blowing through your radiator will do more than any fan can manage.

Thermo fans spin whichever way you wire them. Is your thermo fan cutting in? It should have a relay and in line fuse. Fuse is supposed to be [from memory and if its a davies craig unit] 60a. I'll check that and get back to you though. I've had the same issues with a thermo fan, and it was either the relay or the fuse [i had the vehicle for over 10 years]. But have to say they work fine normally.

Your probably running out of a lot of things, fuel, turbo, spark even. Try getting your fuel pressure checked, regapping your plugs to 0.8, check your wastegate setting, turbo size?, dump system? My thought anyway.

Try other forums, maybe the GTR one in the UK? They are a different knowledge source. Some one will know, just have to find them. What you have is pretty rare, ones like mine are much more common.

The sw/po switch sets external vs internal gate, the dip switches are a new one to me though and I can't help. Looked at all my notes and came up blank sorry. I have a IV, but not the IV pro, the IV doesn't have the dip switches. Mine is LCD as well, otherwise the units are pretty much the same.

Car make/type/model: Nissan Skyline R33 Gtst Year: 1998 Overall condition of car: 7.5/10 How is the car treated: 5/10 I give it some but it is on the road and used as a touring car Maintenance level: 7/10 I do what has to be done and don't skrimp on it Modifications: Bolt ons Insurance: 3rd party at $300pa Estimated power: 300+rwkw by dyno Estimated to the tank fuel usage: 550KM to the 65L tank on 95 plus WMI Estimated $ spent per year to maintain: I don't do big miles, i have a 4wd, plus a work 4wd, plus a motorbike so around$2K, upgrades and retunes for each step up in power keep me poor

Iggy

Sh!t, I thought I had, I'll do it straight away.

Get the fuel pump tested, you can test for fuel pressure and flow. Sounds more like you have a 'clean' problem to me, dirty plugs or sensor [o2,tps etc] somewhere. Don't replace the fuel pump without testing the whole fuel system. Cost, sub $200, probably what ever a service is worth. Fuel pump, being an N/A, a Walbro will do it easy, around $250 fitted, but get it checked first. And get your fuel filter cleaned/replaced, could have dirt/water in it.

The fuse translation is in the DIY section, there are several versions for most if not all Skylines.

Guys, I made a donation a while ago, and it still appears under my name so all is good there. But my NSW membership is missing. I'm sure I'm a member of SAU, but it doesn't appear under my name. I can drag out my membership card if needed. If I'm not financial any more let me know, but I'm sure I am [one of the silent majority].

One more try?

200wk, you won't need a swirl pot, but get your fuel pressure tested.......takes about 10minutes max.

??

Silver 32 at Deakin yesterday, it was parked.

Blow off valve, set 'em up right and they work, set 'em up wrong and they stall and such. Best BOV is the std one anyway.

I've got a Snow Performance stage 3 WMI kit which I'm about to install. Just want to know what nozzle size you are running with, the 375 or the 625? Gts2.5t with +300rwkw. The chart says that the 375 will do it, but I could be breaking into the 625 so wanted to see what others were doing? Or do I have to suck and see? Also what fuel do you use [not interested in brand, RON] 91, 95, 98. given that WM gives around 20 points, is there any use in running on 95 for a road car, is the motor capable of running OK on 91 when its not on boost [sounds logical to me, but i wouldn't be asking if I didn't already know].

yokohama advan 102's on the front 245 40 17 yokohama advan V103's on the back 265 40 17 had 102's on the back, gripped well but wore out in no time, 103's are longer wearing. Might look you up Mick, when it's time to go again. I like the look of that tyre you posted, my 102's were the same as that, great road pattern but yoko's are exe around $400 fitted a tyre hurts

Thats OK, it was good the catch up, next time I'll get some intro's as well, know some but not all. I left early, was pretty b#ggered, I'd been up since 4am so was a bit washed out.