tridentt150v

If i read it right you want the adjustment thread pitch, that is the one the lock rings are on that you use to set the ride height? I'll measure mine at lunch and let you know. Give me a couple of hours.

Car mats? type and condition?

I want a standard jack for my R33, not worried about the thread or anything, I just want the top part that fits onto the vehicle, the bit with the groove for the seam in it. PM me.........

Easy, wind the boost up to say 20psi and then drive.............if it lasts its probably steel!!!

Don't you need a press to get the old ones out? I looked at mine and bar detroying them, it looks like you'd need a press but I could be wrong!!

How long is a peice of string..............depends on your setup. My R33 is knocking at 18psi, so I've had to cut back on my timing and increase fuel which lowers your power and economy. If you have lower compression you could dial in heaps more. Or a WMI kit will let you dial it up as well. You'll just have to suck and see, sorry.

No promises, I'll see how I'm travelling. But it sounds good and I"m interested, would be good to meet up again [i don't get to do it enough, vagaries of distance I'm afraid]. Got my Billies and swaybars on btw.

Thanks Gary, Yeah, but it ends up 20mm ID for the majority......anyway not really interested in that part. What I have got is a 39mm hole length replacing a 45mm hole length. What I ended up doing was using a couple of big washers, they made 5.82mm, so almost the 6mm difference. The back ones had a small 6mm wide by 1.9mm thick by 20mm ID 'ring' type spacer, but the front ones didn't have this. Also like to know how important it is to index the spring locator dip away from the tyre, I couldn't get a couple of them to line up like that. If you used the top impression in the rubber ring, and then the bottom alloy one would line upfacing front or back rather than facing inboard.

Steven, just saw that, had to go back and read the start of the thread...............thanks anyway. Now is this venue the same as the night of questions?

OK, just saw this, can someone send me the details please..............it'd better not be this weekend though......I'm installing my Billies and swaybars, got the two rears on [ain't that a saga], fronts and swaybars to go tomorrow. Anyone interested in a set of Jap spec Tein HA's?

Can someone tell me how long the 20mm ID spindle hole is? I just took off my Teins and the sleeve is approx 45mm. I'm fitting Billies and they are around 39mm so a 6mm difference. Was wondering if the standard suspension was 39 or 45mm?

What is the best way to learn drift for the novice. Pay $500 and do a drift school for the day, use their cars to start with etc? Attend some club days and learn from others? The first is expensive, the latter is likely non productive or teaches bad habits. I'm a bit isolated, country nsw is not exactly drift centre of the universe. So will likely use the first option for high impact - means I don't have to keep travelling backwards and forwards to Sydney repeatedly, but can do a couple of drift school days and then progress to the club days if I want.

Get a grip!!! [Mivec was pretty good actually]

This is just a guess but sounds like you've got the actuator or boost controller hoses mixed up, boost should act differently to how you described.

??? anyone

My advice is to park it in my shed and give me the keys........................lol When does you boost begin? If its 3,000 -3500 then thats normal. Your injectors could be beginning to lean out at top revs, 90% duty cycle is close to too much, little head room. You don't need a hand controller, it can be tuned and driven without one.

Sounds like the signal vlotage used to collapse the coils isn't right. You have a mismatch.

I've got a set of GReddy aftermarket gauges - exhaust temp, oil temp, and oil pressure. My two temp gauges have died, I think its the sensors. What I want to know is who handles Greddy? I'll buy two new sensors and see if that fixes the problem. PS oil pressure is working fine [probably bugger up now I said that]

the jjr ones look like a straight copy of the HKS units, I looked at 'em, but found a s/h HKS unit that I rebuilt - it was a bit more expensive than a chinese knock off, but it was worth it [and it was way cheaper than a new HKS one]. Tial and such aren't that expensive anyway, your only saving a $100-200 total.

heaps of Z32's out there making 260 to 300 or more rwkw

Not a lot to go on, but with that set up you'd have to be looking at mid 200's rwkw [250], I'd question std injectors, but as Tangles says, you need a dyno to sort it out.

download acrobat reader and install, its free.

I think we may be missing the point a bit. I know you get increased volumetric flow with a hone, but as you stated the turbine housing is the restriction. But I'm not so sure that you will use the extra volume, I think its more about having smooth [ie non turbulent] flow, and its this that offers the greatest benefit. The smoother the flow the quicker and cleaner it is. BTW I did my housing as well.

Weren't VPW [Aust] snow perfomance agents?

if you must change it, gilbarco pumps are the best.............otherwise leave it try searching on fuel pumps, heaps of info