tridentt150v

That was one of the biggest benefits [if your car could use it], the difference across the runners. The HKS cast low mount has the best results for a manifold both in outright flow and balance for each runner. However I must qualify that by stating that not all exhaust manifolds have been tested. The test results I found [on the UK GTR web site???? and this was like several years ago] only compared a well known stainless steel top mount, a std cast unit and the HKS item. It compared them all before and after extrude honing, but some of the top end units being made by the likes of 6boost and GCG may well flow just as good........we just don't know. Wished I'd cut and pasted that results table now, would have made good reference material. Wolverine I honestly think you have the best known system if you have a HKS cast low mount, there is none better [there may be some that equal, but we don't know].

The money you spend on a SAFC you could get a toshi/doctor drift remap of your std ecu and do so much more with it, its not a pfc, but its way better than a SAFC. So bang for bucks as a first step is rechip imo. read this and other threads like it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...l&hl=doctor

Old one, but I had and still have cams Tomei 256/8.5mm units maybe a bit mild but hey!!! I also have the larger exhaust housing 0.82 so that is not the issue, it just dets, but I'm closer to my WMI kit now - just had to buy other [non car related] stuff first. As I stated, I don't think you'll see any power benefit from extrude honing, what you should see is an improvement in efficiency = fuel economy/lower ramp levels/etc etc but it would all be marginal. And it didn't cost me $900 - sounds like we need more extrude hone businesses in town to raise the competition bar.

That worked....................lol

Does it hold boost? when you wind on past 15 psi do you still get a flat line or is it all over the place? Whats your spring rate in your WG?

cat/exhaust or wastegate?

Be easier with ramps or axle stands, if your going to get active with your car and do some of the work yourself then invest in ramps/stands. Ramps are probably a bit more stable and trustworthy, but stands are OK - I use both at different times. [bTW I use a jack to lift the car and then slide my ramps under then lower the car back to them. The front bar is way too low otherwise]

Here:

if you go to the DIY/FAQ section in SAU there is a tutorial on swapping a fuel pump

I have a Greddy gauge in mine........... idle 1 kg/cm or less 2000rpm 2.2-2.5 kg/cm 3000rpm 3.5-3.7 kg/cm 4000+ rpm 4 to 5 kg/cm or better. I don't see that you have a problem. Do search and you'll find that others have pretty mucht he same or similar reaedings as me. Maybe you just never noticed the idle pressure before?

yeah, could be, but who wants to get stuck on the Hume highway on a 46'C day.......lol On a normal 30'C or less day, it sits on around 85'C, so a 20'C increase is time for some caution in my books, to be sure to be sure! On another note, it must have frustrated the hell out of the highway patrol car that snuck out and followed me for approx. 20km into Holbrook and I wasn't speeding or hooning at all - too hot.

Oil temp, last Saturday driving in 46'C day [day of bushfires] my oil went to 108"C, I hated it, but slowed down and it settled on 97'C, so very necessary. Oil pressure normally is 3.5 at 3000rpm, on this day it was more like 3.0, but I was semi reassured that at least I had useable pressure. Exhaust temp, cos you can see how hard your turbo side is working and also know when you can turn your ignition off [so you don't always need to use your turbo timer or wait around unlit 2 minutes are up etc] Water temp, I've never really needed an accurate figure, as long as its not increasing or overheating, then its OK, so you only need an indicator, not a real time measure. You will drive to suit the conditions and the readings of the above three, the others are handy, but not necessarily condition dependant, more tune dependant. And if you using a PFC [and some other ECU's] then you will get a reading from them during or at the end of the trip anyway. But I don't do any track days, mainly highway/main road only, so your use could change this.

RB25, HKS cast low mount with a GT3076 WG and I had to grind away the heat sheild and part of the metal that the rubber mount is bounded to. You can't get away without doing it unless you have an RB30, then the extra 38mm lifts the turbo up enough to clear it. I used a 4" angle grinder with a s/s cutting blade [they are super thin 1-1.5mm]. I finished it off with a sanding disc on the 4". Make sure you cover everything up real good because rubber and filings dust goes everywhere. Blow it all down when your finished [if you have a compressor]. Don't be fooled into thinking that you have to cut the side away, its more towards the passenger rear than the side.

For light yellowing, you can get away with a product that Just Jap sells. It is a japanese polish specifically for headlights, with japanese writing all over it. You can also use a generic headlight/plastic polish from companies like 'Mothers', it will do the job, but is slower and requires a lot more patience than the Just Jap tube. In the old days we used to use toothpaste and then car polish. The old 750cc Suzuki two strokes [waterbottles] had a plastic lens on the speedo and tacho, the toothpaste/polish thing worked fine [probably prevented decay and gave a fresh mint finish as well.......lol].

Instructions and some specs

I've got no interest in selling the product, have nothing to do with the company or importer at all, I merely did an install and told it how it was [call them and ask if you want]. If you keep having to pop the boot in public.........well it doesn't take much imagination to put the pieces together. My remote swings off my keyring, if I get in and have no ignition, I hit the remote and get it back all from the drivers seat. If this product doesn't suit you, no skin off my back, couldn't care less. If you want to fit solar panels, trickle chargers or a different system, go for it. All I wanted to do was inform you that what you originally said was not wholly correct. Notice I didn't respond to gotRICE, because he didn't say anything incorrect, just mentioned another solution.

Actually I've been thinking of getting into the sub prime real estate market, looks like a winner!!! four posts and we can't stop him...........c'mon he's on a roll

Thats about the dumbest thing you've said. Your almost there, you have everything you need to make the power you are looking for, buy an ecu, even try a rechip [its a bit cheaper] from one of the guys on SAU [i can't remember his name, Doctor something], get a Z32 and you'll be fine. Mods aren't cheap, never havc been. But they are cheap compared to buying a car 'off the shelf' with equivalent power. If you back out and sell now, you'll be a quitter...........lol Listen to what we are all trying to tell you, we say it because it works, you can't beat experience.

Kinks, please re read and visit their website, you can wire it up so that your car alarm can work 24/7 if thats what you want. anyway, if your out and about, you can turn the unit off. This effectively means your battery power is acting as if the unit is not there, so your alarm/accessories etc can do whatever you want. So I think it has the options to do what you want. You won't start a car with a half flat battery, anything below 12 volts is maybe, anything below 11 volts is a 'push me'. This unit will shut down the battery at a threshold that it thinks it requires to restart your vehicle. This unit won't suit everyone, but if you garage your car in a sequre place, and you don't/can't drive it all the time, then you should consider it.

I did a search and didn't find anyone that had done one: This is more of a ‘heads up’ than a tutorial, the item already comes with a good set of instructions. If you’re like me and don't get to drive your Skyline all that often then you know what it is like to have a flat battery. I have a work 4WD, a personal 4WD and a motorbike, so my Skyline only gets driven when I'm not working, going away on the bike, or using my 4WD. The clock, burglar alarm and radio etc all drive the battery flat over time. If you have ever left your lights on on a foggy morning, or left your interior light on, then this system is a saviour. Anyway, I rang up and ordered a new battery and the salesperson recommended a battery power protector for my situation. The Braille unit supplied is a battery power protection system that can be used to switch your battery on and off. You can also use it as a security power cut, so there is no power in the car at all, so things like your power window buttons can’t be used as a point of entry and making it very hard to hotwire [it still won’t stop the professional thief]. The down side is that your car alarm won't work. Braille provide instructions on how to wire in your accessories and/or engine ignition so you can in fact bypass the switch for either or both accessories and/or ignition. Wiring it this way would allow your burglar alarm to continue working, but may also allow the battery to go flat thus negating any benefits of the battery power protection system. Considering that my car is garaged at home most of the time, the loss of a burglar alarm isn't a concern to me. So I didn’t bother with the accessory or ignition wire option [and you can get around it anyway]. I may change my mind later. The unit cost $139 from Mat Mladin Imports, and came with: The switch unit Two (2) remote controls Wires, mounting blocks, metal links, nuts, bolts, fuses, battery post, battery clamp and other fitting gear, and an excellent set of instructions, very comprehensive really. It was easy to fit, approx 2 hours, I did it in around 3 but I did a chassis mount rather than hanging it off one of the metal links on the side of the battery. I solid mounted mine on my battery tray near the rear fuse box [see photo]. You can see the item description and specifications at: http://braillebattery.com/index.php/produc...ower_protector/ Because I did a chassis mount, I had to get another battery lead made up by my friendly resident auto electrician to go from the rear fuse box to the Braille switch unit = $10. I used my original battery lead to go from the unit to the battery. To test the system, I switched on my ignition [car not running] and also turned on the headlights and pedestrian lights. The Braille system cut in inside 2 minutes and the car went dead. I turned everything off and used the remote to reset the switch. I then started the car and hit the remote again to turn the system off, the car kept going, but as soon as I turned the ignition off, there was no power. So it all worked as it was meant to for me. There is a manual override in the switch, if you undo the screw on lid and use a screwdriver to turn the exposed switch to ‘off’, the switch is no longer operative and the battery has direct power to the vehicle. This could be good for using your parkers or hazard lights for extended periods if you have a breakdown. It could also be used if your away from home and need to have the burglar alarm going all the time [and you didn’t use the accessory wire to bypass the switch], the unit won’t be able to auto turn off. The only semi tricky bit is to make sure that you earth the switch with the black wire coming out of the unit. You can earth to the chassis or the negative battery post, whichever is easiest. Note: That I can't vouch for this items longer term service or suitability yet [will it save my battery?], but I'll get back to this thread in a few weeks and give an update.

I haven't taken the Teins off yet, just wanted to assemble the Bilsteins and have them ready to go when I started the install. I think I've got it now anyway, not positive, but things seem to fit. For anyone else: 1. 6mm to back 2. Yes 3. Yes 4. No, big to back Well thats what I've done and it seems to be going together OK. As an aside, I ordered new gaskets, bump rubbers and dust covers with the other bump rubber as a unit. Part numbers: Top bump rubber 4 x 56217 Middle bump rubber 4 x 56218 Dust cover/gaiter with fitted bump rubber 4 x 54050 Gaskets 4 x 54329 That should be enough to replace all your rubber parts etc.

ecu and Z32, no fmic either, its only half the job

Anyone??

Check that the loom is plugged into the ecu nice and tight, I had a similar prob

OK, I've got my Bilsteins, got std top caps, king springs [progressive], and some new rubber bumpers and gaskets etc. All x 4. What I need to know: 1. I have two types of std top caps, they are exactly the same but two have 6mm studs and the other two have 8mm, which is front and back, guessing 8mm is front????? 2. The spring rings on the billies are different, guessing the large ones are the back ones and the smaller ones are the front??? 3. The springs are about 30mm different in length, logic says the short springs match up with the shorter Billies and they are the front shocks???? 4, There are two sizes in the top cap big rubber rings, they are the same dia. all over, but one is thicker from top to bottom than the other, thick ones to the front???? Can anyone confrim this for me please. I'm working off a printout of the parts manual for the Skyline and a brief instruction sheet that came with the Bilsteins, trying to combine/meld the two into one set up. Have to say that japanese and german [the axis powers] didn't make it too clear!!!!.........lol