tridentt150v

Tyre power has bins of them

Get a mechanic to look at it first, not sure how much you or your mate knows about motors, but knocking sounds can come from a bizllion places. Big end, cams, valves, lifters, clutch, gearbox, fan, alternator, basically if it rotates or moves it can make noise when it fails. You need someone that knows what they are looking at to assess your sound. Your first $100 could be the best money spent even before the repairs.

I also once did this same thing years ago, I was stubborn, persistant and lucky, I eventually got my money back. I new the seller was also trading on SAU and the Silvia site, so I contacted the forum mods for both sites and reported him as a bad trader. I did the same on ebay. He eventually caved in and made good, but it took 8 months to do it. I sent my purchase back and asked for a refund within 1-2 weeks of receiving it, so he had my $$$ and the goods for 8 months. I suggest you try doing the same, you will win out if you reach nuisance level. You shouldn't have to put up with shoddy goods. Irony was that they began a group buy not long after I'd bought my reject, I would have never gone through with it if I'd known about the group buy. Good luck.

I've got one like that that I'd sell you for $200, stainless steel, made for a Gtst. second hand, didn't fit my GT3076 turbo.

Sorry Manuel, I am somewhere else. Anyway what happened to your job at Fawlty Towers, did Basil fire you???

Look what they done to my thread Ma, Look what thye done to my car, It was the only thing I could do half right and it turned out all wrong Ma, Look what they done to my thread. Apologies to Melanie Safka.

See Bubba it wasn't hard to drag you into the 21st Century.......was it!!! Only been metric since 1975!!! lol So you have 1 to 1.5 at idle, 2 to 3 at 2000rpm, 3.5 to 4.2 at 3000rpm and then ever onwards and upwards, thats pretty much what I have [and said]. So we either have two engines about to let go, or its normal.........I vote normal.

GReddy

Thats too much pressure, you sure you got it right? 2 is OK at idle, 3.5 to 4 at cruise and 4+ above say 3000rpm.

are you serious!! you drill out the banjo and you reduce the circulation collar

clutch has nothing to do with oil or oil pressure, forget it

Is that through the white metal or is it just the light??? How many Km's, normally bearings with copper showing are big mileage and/or abuse or a failed oil pump/no oil in motor. If its through the white metal, you have a serious oil supply issue.

I asked this question some time ago and didn't get an answer. The basic thought from the forum was that splitfires are no better than std coils just newer. I wanted to gap my plugs back out to say 1.0mm [assuming splitfires were better]. The other question I asked [and didn't get an answer here either] was would increasing your gap affect or increase your knock levels? I actually thought it would lower them - a spark that lasts a bit longer and that should be fatter would have a better more complete burn??? And I agree that if you want to make +240rwkw to ditch the Walbro and a Z32 is essential. So except for say $5-600 you are almost there, and in fact I think you may see a bit more than 240, 245 or 250 even.

I can't see it replacing WMI. You only use WMI when you need it [using boost and/or injector impedance] and its practically instant. Unless you have the same sensors for C02 - when would you use it? Also your car starts to get knock, you turn on the C02, and your intake temp drops, but its not instant, there has to be lag. So you turn down your sensor threshhold and then you are probably using C02 when you don't need to?? It would be great for racing or playing, but as an every day driver??? I'm not so sure.

I'd just polish that up and go again

You can plug it in and go OK, but will get more benefit from a quick 'trim' on the tune. The afn is the problem, the std one is maxing out before you get up in the rev range, once it max's out, you go R+R. It will work fine for say 80% of the rev range, but can't do the last 20%. Surprised you haven't changed it yet considering your other mods.

Z32

Most kits come with a level indicator. You can get the 2 stage boost sensing unit ($680) or the 3 stage with both two stage boost and injector impedance ($950). I'm just now trying to dig up some details on the systems that goes deeper than the glossy brochure or the web site. Esp. interested in the stage 3 kit and how it taps into the boost and injector cycle [for owner install]. I'm guessing that the boost is analogue via a hose 'T' into the the vacuum line, but the injector impedance would have to come from the loom or the ECU. Been emailing Snow Performance and VPW, still waiting on a reply that tells me what I want to know. Sorry Patty for the OT.

You don't forget because you have a sensor that tells you when the reservoir is getting low [a pseudo fuel gauge]. The biggest downside is having to carry meth around. You do a 3,000km trip and have to make sure you pack enough methanol. The upside is, you only use it when you boost/injector impedance increases, so it is possible to do a 3,000 km trip and not use any at all [yeah right...lol]. I am not in a metro area, E85 is about as useless as an etag or surfboard out here. But you can get e10 everywhere now [i haven't bothered].

Not sure you'll do that much better with cams, I've got the same turbo but with the external gate and am making approx. the same power as you. I've also got Tomei 256/8.5's and a HKS cast low mount {extrude honed and HPC coated]. I have made almost 300 [so the set up has potential], but had to wind it back because of knock. Guilt Toy reckons it could be false knock because the PFC and the knock sensors are prone to false readings at anything over say230-250rwkw. But I'm not game to trust that line of thought with my motor. So what I'm saying is that knock levels are your ceiling, not the turbo or your other supports. So I'm going to try WMI first and see what that does [Mafia likes it] to my knock levels. But I'm only playing cos I'll likely go 25/30 one day anyway.

Search http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

Macguyver would ground the comp cover up into filings and then set it alight to make a bomb and 'blow that sucker out'. The vacuum cleaner idea is a good one [i've used it like that toclean out stud holes etc].

yeah vct ramps up your cam/valve breathing down low as jjjjs says, it overcomes some of the lag a bigger turbo would induce.

Except for you saying it holds boost, I'd say a stuck open wastegate. Is your actuator arm actually working, and it def. holds boost? Then again, a std motor should make more than 48 kw even without FI.

Stewart Little is the mouse, yeah I was kidding. The grease idea works, you use a bit of wire or some such with a small flat on it, you load the flat up with grease and then go fishing. If you lob it on the copper bit it will stick to the grease and then you can carefully retrieve it. I've done it before for various jobs and it works. The best bit is that any grease you loose won't do any harm anyway [unlike blue tack].