tridentt150v

Check your earth?

autosparkies will swage new ones on if you prefer, just take your leades in and they will do it while you wait

torn diaphragm

MASH

^^^^^+1

Disco, with that sort of power drain, I'd be thinking that the laptop is also using the RS232 looking for a printer at the same time, burning up power trying, so you get conflicting issues. If you do use the USB is the power usage better? I'd have to say would be.

You have to remember that you are talking about peak power, power usage depends on CPU usage rate, your laptop won't use 5.5 amps continuously. Things like burning CD/DVD, huge data set manipulation etc will have a high power usage. We use 150 watts units for work all the time and they never run out. I can plug my dead flat laptop in, boot it up, and use it to download big [but simple] data files from loggers [try a weather station with approx 10 parameters logged every 10 minutes for two months] and it does it easily. I'm with Adriano and co, you will be fine with the $48 special.

std OK, but if you run an oil cooler or a relocator kit it can be something else. Livo's looks like it's actually a Z55? [3 maybe] when you zoom in, mine is a Z418. Actually when you look at the Ryco catalogue, the footprint and threads are basically the same [within 0.5mm] for the Z553 range and the 418, only the height is different. The Z145A is different. I don't know if the intended use for each is different.

I was going to reply..............then replied.......looked at my answer and saw that I don't do anything like what everyone else is doing.........I was way different, so went back and deleted my answer so the game tragics could have it. So I have to agree with Shell.......yawn

thats some fancy bordello your hanging around!!

I take my lawnmower to the 'Outdoor Power Centre'.............

if its a standard car then a std ecu will work just fine..........if you have a forward facing plenum, a fmic, and/or turbo, injectors, pods, etc etc then a std ecu can't help you. The pfc is a tunable ecu, it is your best option.

tigress

Keep the Gtst and buy a bike as well. But you'll buy a GTR, once you start thinking like you are now, you have already decided, you just won't admit it to yourself yet.

When I 'rebuilt' my 40mm HKS std wastegate I looked at JJR parts but I couldn't be sure they would fit. I went HKS diaphragm, 18psi spring, and gaskets and it was approx twice the price. I think around $200-250 from memory. Anything HKS is going to be exxie!! I sourced my own bolts and vacuum fittings from local hardware/hydraulic shops.

Would that work with an RB30 GTS30t conversion? Would make capacity somewhere around 3.3-3.5 at a guess?

99.99% chance it has ATF in it, won't really hurt with brand name difference. Far better to have fluid than let it run out!!

Are you talking about seal swelling agents, or the stop leak stuff that sets like sugar crystals? Most ATF's [not all] have 'seal conditioners' in them, they don't have any leak stop agents. I'm always a bit suss of the stop leak stuff anyway, it gunks up and sets, so it is probably doing it in other places where you don't want it to do it as well, little valves, journals and venturi's [talking general application not just power steering].

gravity

OK, I'm about to assemble my Bilsteins and have to use the standard top caps and fittings. What I want to know is do I need all these fittings? I'm pretty sure I need 1,2,5,6 but do I need 3 and 4, aren't they just bump riders? And do you need the gasket that sits on top of number 1 and between the strut cap and the car body? or is it not really needed. Thanks.........

True, unless its the dyno you don't use = the opposition!! BTW my 3076 had the voluted comp cover/surge slots as well, 100mm/60mm intake.

Pu-erh [it's a traditional tea]

Automatic Transmission Fluid = ATF, any quality brand will do it, castrol, shell, motul, BP, etc

Why would changing your plenum upset the tune on your pfc any more than on a std ecu?? I'd be going back to the pfc and getting a proper tune.

definitely bore or rings, and one cylinder only - when the others are so even and OK - broken ring or gudgeon pin scraping.