tridentt150v

OK, I'll ask another way...................when you had your SydneyKid suspension kit fitted...........what tops were used?

Sorry, R33Gts2.5t '98. Want them for my Bilsteins, was told they fit OK.

+1 ^^^^ other forums I'm in allow it, no problem.

Hope you turned those pipe clamp bolt heads aroundat the base of the IC.

As stated, I want to buy the top caps from std nissan suspension.

I once took my car to a reputable workshop with a typed out specific list of what I wanted done and how, I may as well have asked Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny. They just did what they wanted, ignored what I'd asked for and then demanded top $$$$ for their crappy work or I didn't get my car back. When I got it back I had to basically redo a lot of their work myself and then get it retuned [their tune form the workshop had knock levels of 120-150, my motor was being killed by those ba#st#rds]. I like it when you get a 'coach'. Last workshop I went to I took my overalls and helped out for the day, we did a few things, installed cams and a dyno tune and I was in on it. I really appreciated Ed letting me do that, plus it freed him up from all the mundane stuff like prepping, cleaning surfaces etc, I did that while he worked on other stuff and occasionally looked over my shoulder bump steering me. And when it was done, I re assembled the bits we'd taken off [which I'm used to anyway]. I hope it works out for you doutsis, a lot of workshops think you are a honeypot and want to milk you for everything while they do shoddy work.

And I'd check on this forum, some of the advertisers here sell Splitfires for a lot less than your ebay price. eg.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...il-t183483.html

What ecu, injector size and pump are you using? And the missing could be coils, could be plug gap.

The black rubber bit at the top of the threaded spindle click spins, so I can adjust the ride stiffness, but the limiting factor is really the springs, I can't make it any softer than the spring strength/stiffness. I guess this means that I'm really only adjusting rebound dampening.

Kicks in a bit later than I thought it should at 3500rpm. Is the motor std or have you lowered compression for more boost?

Nismo 1.5's are easy to live with, just a bit of chatter around town, but not a lot. Can't comment on the Kaaz. One thing I love is the way it hooks up and drives when you accelerate. None of this steering correction etc, it drives straight cos both wheels are doing the same amount of effort. Even exiting a roundabout [once your used to it] it tracks brilliantly.

Here's an old pic of the top of my Teins............I'll get a newer pic this arvo and post it.

No pillow ball tops on these units AFAIK. I can do a comparo, but it wouldn't be fair. The Teins are hard jap spec and jump and shudder/skip over every pothole/ripple. They are made for track work, not country NSW roads. On hotmix roads [like in Canberra and some Sydney] the car is very good, the teins work fine. But on lets say less refined surfaces, they are a PITA. The Billies should be a fair bit softer and allow the tyre to stay in contact with the surface. I'm hoping that the swaybars will compensate for the loss of stiffness so overall I won't get any extra body roll, but time will tell.

I brought a neat black plastic switch and wired mine up so that I can turn it on or off, too easy and looks factory.

Actually, the group buy for coil covers was pretty good. You got a coil cover with your choice of logo cut out of it with extra flutes and holes. So you got the coil cover, but no heat build up.

I just purchased a Daniel Kent- Elite Racing bilstein suspension kit [basically the same as the SK one give or take]. I've presently got Tein HA's on and want to swap them out. What I need to know, do the Tein top caps fit the Bilstein's with progressive king springs? OD 12.4cm, ID 10cm. Someone said buy a set of std caps, but I'm nut sure what I have to buy or if they will fit? I don't want to begin installing this stuff until I have the complete set up. I want to be able to fit and drive [inc. wheel alignment], not have it on blocks for days waiting for some part. All help appreciated.

you have an R32???, thats for an R33. There is an R32 one in the DIY section as well.

Print it, cut it out, laminate it, and stick it to the inside of your interior fuse box lid. R33_Fusebox_translation.doc

1. Shouldn't be 2. No but it won't run right until you do. Std ecu's can't handle bigger injectors or turbo upgrade's.

Based purely on a power figure I'd agree, but has anyone measured the efficiency maybe as a fuel consumption figure? If something flows better, it has to have benefit somewhere, even lower rpm for boost gains maybe?

Bilstein suspension kit with swaybars etc from Elite QLD for $1920 (selling my Teins). Basically a Sydney Kid kit but delivered inside a week, and with progressive king springs instead of whitelines.

You can try doing it hot??? sometimes helps. Wear welding gloves. More WD40, try cracking the seize by tightening it, if replacing it, then try tapping it on the nut part with a long screwdriver and a hammer [tap not bash].

Try this, print it out, laminate it, and stick it in. Mods, do we have this in the DIY section? if not maybe we should?

A few shops do it, a lot of tuners.speed shops can arrange to get it done. Ask around. Also try a search, I'm sure this has been asked and discussed, you should get good answers from that.

I do what Phase said, I use wooden blocks to get the jack under then lift it high enough to get the ramps under it. My trolley jack won't go under the car. On a 33 there is a jack location just behind each front wheel and in front of the door sill, but you need a 'U' shaped grooved block use it. You need to pack out each side of the seam, a couple of bits of metal or wood do the trick.