tridentt150v

If its not structurally damaged, if it is still solid, I'd just use some tank sealer putty. You can get that at Repco or whatever, will work easy, just smear it on and push/work it in around the critical area. Its made for quick repairs on fuel tanks. If its flexing and looks like it will get worse, its a tank out job. There are shops around that will weld a tank up, I 've done it before myself, you drain it, let it dry out, find a diesel motor and start it up, feed the exhaust fumes into the tank with a hose and while it is running, weld the tank up [mig is best, but oxy will work as well, arc is too much for the thin metal of a tank unless your a genius welder]. The exhaust fumes stop any big bang, they are carbon monoxide/dioxide plus other stuff and stop or supress any flame. A petrol engine will also work, but its not quite as safe. I've heard of guys using CO2 bottles as well. An alternative to that is someone with a big soldering iron and solder it up. I've never seen fuel fumes ignite off a hot soldering iron. But soldered joints are not as strong as weld, but they can be pretty strong, many solder repairs have lasted years on fuel tanks and radiators. A word of caution, its not for the novice [practice on something else] or the faint hearted, so if you can't weld don't try it yourself. The last alternative is another tank, but who's to say it won't happen again.

Like R31 says, you need an ecu, then you can set up your fuel map (with a tune), go from 300km a tank to 500, and probably make another 10-30kw as well. Without an ecu your just wasting $$$$ on loosy tunes and fuel. Can't believe how many people don't do this, its a basic fundamental part of the mod list.

1. hose goes to boost controller, it holds boost fine, but it wouldn't be dumping. 2.nothing to worry about, if its running fine, its running fine. 3. use a metal plate with sealer [if I understand the question]

And a $250 turbo is like a $10 hooker, you don't know what you'll get, but you can bet it ain't no bargain. Expect to pay 4500 plus for a s/h and $1500 plus for a good turbo. Not all blow jobs are the same!!!

I got mine off BD 4's in Sydney, HKS agents [new diaphragm, spring, and gaskets].

BTW did you try using the old globe that was OK [LH side], did it work? If so then maybe the new globes aren't right??

Try this [see attachment], print it, laminate it, and stick it on the interior fuse box lid, if you didn't get the right globes, or they are not earthed properly that will also do it. R33_Fusebox_translation.doc

If its a steering wheel alignment problem it will be hyper sensitive one way and much more tolerant the other direction.

"Hello - I'm New" eek!! a baby that can type.............and owns a Skyline, go figure..... Welcome

You won't get a 10mm hose down your dipstick hole, have to be smaller than that and thats why it takes 10 minutes to drain the oil. Another benefit is you don't have your sump plug come loose because you forgot to tighten it up.

Only on exhaust, some gains if you have the right mods [debateable] to back it up, 10-20rwkw maybe. There is variable valve timing on the inlet side, this stops you installing a cam gear without major mods to ditch it. sell the cam gears you have, if the car already has one, you don't need them.

DCIEVE, how long you been running with yours? I had one put on as well, and probably have 3-4000km on it, but want to change it soon - never can completely trust it after comments made by others. Reckon I'll whip the comp cover off and get a bend welded on. Peace of mind.........

I still haven't heard Nissan whinging..............in fact I think they would be grateful to Porsche for the publicity by association. It also seems that other manufacturers are now keen to 'benchmark' their product's achievements against the R35 in the reference list, not bad for a car that is only new on the scene. And no, I haven't driven a porsche or an R35, I'm one of the poor masses who dreams of such things [but I don't need to have done so for the comments Ive made].

could be fuel pump/filter/injectors/quality could be a dirty air filter could be a sensor could be your ecu after 2,5000km who knows and 375 to 400 isn't that big a difference, could be winter vs summer dyno, tyres, clutch, timing valve clearances and the list goes on

Where these guys need to concentrate their efforts is in the upper house.... Look at all the minority parties, Family First, Shooters Party, Greens, Independents........the upper/senate because there they have a better chance of controlling the balance of power......then your vote is not wasted. Also, many independents and small parties do a lot of good there, the big parties can't bulldoze unfair laws through if the senate has a balance. Unlike the last National liberal gov't and JHoward, where they had a majority in both houses and how stupid is the voting public that they would allow that to happen!!!! Never ever vote for a major party in the senate never!!!! And the smaller parties are more people orientated, big business is not their core supporter, so they tend to make comon sense policies that help us or are good for us [not always I know]. So the Motorists party could be a good thing, but be careful who they give preferences to, it woun't be the greens or family first is my guess [won't worry me too much, i don't vote in ACT anyway]. Political lesson over,,,,,

My car was off the road last year.........it is going now [hope it stays that way], so count me in, booldy Sunday though, I always have hassles with Sunday stuff.

if your looking at a budget, and you can afford to wait a bit, I'd try some of the second hand parts dealers, you'll pick up a good boost controller thats not this years model but still good for half price or less. You can play around with your limited budget that way. You don't always have to go new, and you can save by installing it yourself as well.

At least Nissan won't be whinging!!!

^^^^that would have spun the rollers off their tits, they'd have to strap it down hard, cool exhaust system btw

322 for the R35 and if you can only tune it a little bit, say 20%, you have 380kw. What an awesome base [not that 322 isn't great, just thinking of the potential]. Like your average gts2.5t starts out at 120 but can make 250+ without touching the motor, imagine doing that to a R35. Sorry I wasn't there, other stuff stuffed me unfortunately.

More like a head gasket, get a compression test, thats a lot of oil.

I have used the Nxt gen on my old Hilux with faded paint and powdercoat [on the bullbar, rollbar, towbar etc] and it made the old thing shine like a new one with stuff all elbow grease required. If I'd done it with anything else I reckon I would have had to rub and polish till the paint fell off. It helped me sell the 4wd. I also used it on my Skyline - which has good std paint, no fade - after using the Meguiars stripper and to be honest, it came up OK, but not excellent. up until then I was using Meguiar's WetLook which is a non synthetic polish and the car always comes up brilliant with it. I changed because of my success with the Hilux, and because I was looking for a longer lasting finish. Unfortunately this didn't happen, so no real advantage in using the Nxt gen over the Wetlook. Maybe Ver2 will answer the problem, but I've got a bottle of wetlook and Ver1 Nxt Gen to get through first.

injectors, afm sensor???

should be the same, pretty straight forward anyway.

Even if you don't see more peak power, I think you should see a smoother power delivery and an better fuel economy because the induction/emission system is operating more efficiently. I have an extrude honed HKS cast low mount, but I don't have back to backs sorry. I had it honed before I installed, and I changed turbo's as well [hiflow to GT3076 WG]. I wasn't really looking for outright power, but as above. Plus if in the future I do increase power [RB30 likely], my manifold is one less thing to think about. PS I was on 290+ but had too much knock [no WMI], so reduced to 275.