tridentt150v

Could you machine the back of it down? looks to be room to do it.

Bens right...that guy is a dick....no way could you see the sort of fluctuations he is looking for on a timing belt. More likely be due to induced feedback in his light cos he is using the same vehicles battery as a power source.

As an adjunct to this discussion..........the whole cars for sale section on SAU is D E A D. Once you would see Skylines being sold like virgin slaves at a roman market...but these days you are lucky to see one for sale at all. It will soon get to the stage where people that have been racing/tracking their car will be reinstalling the interior and using/selling them because the perceived value is too high to push it into a wall trackside.

If AEM have an electronic tuning/metering kit then it could work ok-ish but in a limited capacity......because you rely on its 'brains' to manage the WMI. ie I have a Snow performance SIII kit that has its own control module, lets you input IDC and boost triggers and then a sliding scale for when the WMI is triggered and by how much, then at what trigger/s it reaches full flow. eg I use 12psi and AND/OR 50% injector duty cycle to start injection at 40% flow and then 16psi and 85% IDC for full flow. You would also need a knock sensor and digital display to check operation. But to be honest, a nistune or haltech would be better.

There are certain cashed up members of society that would be 'pullin' their pud' over that ....thing

MAF?

Well...to be fair to all, the OP asked about a GTR - true........but then mistakenly also talked about 20 and 25 DET motors......this added to some of the confusion. IMO, don't buy a Skyline unless: you want +20 year old power and are willing to chase the rainbow, have a good tool kit and aren't afraid to use it, are happier throwing spanners around than watching TV can live on 2 minute noodles and no money but have a great 6 -boost/garrett/hks/ etc etc etc to install have no girlfriend or a long suffering one who understands know that you can't make every trendy coffee shop meet cos you need to get the car going again all your t shirts have oil/grease stains Others can add to the list, I've probably forgotten a fair few.

Going by the cracks in the wall......new tyres is a must!

You could also talk to:

Very true, I wasn't really thinking of the rough running issue when I replied. I guess he went hunting rabbits and looks like he might have shot a squirrel

The difference between a dry and wet test says bore issues, rings, lands, gudgeon out etc to me. Can you get a bore scope and have a look, you might see marks on the wall?

You could have had air in the system as well? An incomplete bleed when the radiator was last done could do that.

I had a Razo metal one, ditched it cos it got so bloody hot in summer you couldn't touch it. I think the one you have would be the same. I ended up getting a leather Nismo one...much easier on the hand.

I'm more west of the ACT, but have been known to visit for that special occasion I did do a few drives with you guys and would have done more but it all died out. And jrm...I'm old, probably boring as well. But I'm still a legend in my own mind [to quote D. Harry, no, not the good looking singer, the other one with the .44 magnum )

I was up Crookwell - Laggan way just the other day.....bought a log splitter off a fella up there. If only I'd know.....coulda called in

And that $26,300AUD.

Yeah...in Florida:) I didn't know Mr Ed had opened a business there?

What about the drive train? Still very impressive though.

Better get the polishing rag out

Try the tip of a small screwdriver.

There are big tube like crimps and a big [looks like a set of bolt cutters] crimping tool. Me, I'd replace the whole lead, but you can - if you're stuck - use some resin filled heat shrink and one of the big crimps and add some extra wire for length. All doable, and you can hire the crimping tool.

The spring around the back of a seal should always face the oil side....golden rule. There could be exceptions, I haven't found one yet.

Others have covered the idle issue..and they are right its bloody hard to diagnose on the internet. Its a challenge for you and your mechanic. Looking at all the white 'powder' in the engine bay plus the noise...I'd say you have [or have had in the past] a water pump issue. Does it leak at all?