tridentt150v

Please keep us posted, I can wait if I know that something is actually happening................but I [naturally] have to look elsewhere if I think that it is all finished. And I can tell you, a 3,000km trip on hard Teins is not always pleasant, at least I didn't fall asleep....................lol

I've been trying now for approx. three months, even when I get a PM into his inbox [twice], I get no reply????I know his a busy man but.............. So I'd have to say that the Group Buy is finished, dead, kaput!!! Pity cos I wanted it bad, the only thing I haven't tried yet is contacting SK through his business, there was a name and phone number in HPI. I'll give it a go and see what happens, christ it gets bad when you have buyers clamoring at the door that the seller doesn't respond to.

Not worth it, high flow $300. Fine max $10,000 or something, on a rwkw cost benefit analysis, you would likely be paying something stupid like $2000 per kilowatt. There are other mods out there that will give many more kw per $$$$

If the government was serious about this, they'd apply the same tax to motorbikes over $20,000, and pushbikes over $1,000, and any other transport mode that was considered a luxury. I think they are just discriminating against specific vehicles [and I ride a motorbike]. One thing I will say, the LCT at 57K is stupid. A farmer will spend that on a bl00dy 4wd ute, a basic trayback Landcruiser is around $53k, add a winch, bullbar towbar, and wide wheels [for better load spread on soft paddocks] - all essential acessories for work vehicles - and your over $57K. And we haven't started on tipper tray's or seats, or heavy suspension kits or other stuff. We use tray back Landcruisers with canopies and GVM kits, bullbar, towbar, winch, driving lights, boat racks etc for our work and we aren't looking at any luxury. LCT should start from at least $100K, and why should it be a flat tax, why not a progressive scaled or teired tax. And a GTR - I'm still buying lottery tickets..................I was going to use them for my retirement plan, but some things are just more important than retirement.

Two more temporary - to start with - jobs going.......... Hydrographic start up positions, $40-60K depending on quals etc. Career tops out at around $80K then management. 6 weeks in Tumut, and 3 months in Leeton, but expect both positions tp roll over until permanently filled. Also, present plans are to increase staffing levels by approx. 30% over the next 12-18 months [approx 6-8 new jobs in South West Slopes and Plains NSW]. Although gov't, we are involved in the Murray Darling $10 billion over 10 years Fed funding and have to take on a heap of new work. PM me with an email addy for details.

There are heaps of skylines out there that have hit the 270-280rwkw mark using the GT3076/GT30R or HKS 2835 or 3037 [and others in the same range], they will all do it with the right supporting mods and also make very good mid range. If 300 was your goal, I'd look at the RB30/25 build and/or meth injection. But if you really want dependablity, reliability, efficiency, and economy, you can't go past the above turbo set ups. You won't be the fastest kid on the block, but you'll be fast. Anyway there is always someone faster, so pretty pointless really [but they may not be as reliable etc].

I'd check the rubber o ring out that the fuel pump is under, and easy say 20 minute fix. Also check around the filler cap area, when they comply the cars they have to install an ADR approved cap, some compliance guys just cut and shut but don't reseal. Check if your cap etc will spin if you twist it? If it does its just sitting there and neads resealing. Use a product called Sikaflex and it will reseal the compliance cap to the original filler neck. Its a urethane based product, so have heaps of rags handy and clean up with WD40. Don't use it on your o ring etc because once its set, you'll never get it apart again.

Now I can't decide????

I'll probably come in at Urriara [via barton and belco]. Wait and see!!! and don't count me just yet.

I'd like to start by saying is that I've always got very friendly helpful service at ACT garages. I'm not going to talk specifics or name businesses but friendliness is good, but it would be nice if these businesses were a bit more professional or organised. 1.I travel to get to Canberra, so when I book my car in for 0830, I expect 0830. I hate having to get up at 0500, travel to the garage, then they all shuffle cars around and organise morning tea then do rego checks etc before your car is touched at 1000, this means I could have left at 0800 and still made it, so why [when I've booked in weeks in advance] ask me to come early then stall me. I also pay cash for every job ever done, so I am a good customer. 2. The garage guys get in and out of your car with dirty boots and overalls [i now use seat covers and rubber mats to stop the oil etc]. 3. When I book in for a tune, I don't expect the datalogit cable to have been leant to a mate and can't get hold of him excuse, so they use the hand controller [they did a good job, just not an excellent job]. This may be OK for a local, but I can't just pop back in any old time and get my tune checked. Having said that, they know what they are doing, and are good tuners etc. I'm just trying to supply constructive feedback.

this is a [Vic] state rule thing..............in some states its not illegal. Thats not to say that the police still won't defect you, they can defect just about anything, but when you front up to RTA/whatever, they may wonder why you were defected in the first place.

I couldn't be bothered walking that far with out a rifle over my shoulder!!!

Battery is likely dead - ie dead short circuit so absolutely no way of being recharged or jump started. Buy a new one!!!

I used 'em, happy enough, Jayce you just didn't ride by at the right time. I'd go back [which is more than I can say for some other businesses]. And as for living on the other side of town hahahahaha HTFU, try 250km away. PS long hair don't phase me none, used to it!!!

Not much to go on here!! The 'waterbump' [haha] turns with the motor, so it should squeal all the time. It could also be the air conditioner compressor, the alternator, or the power steering pump - if it is that type of sound. You can usually check the water pump by getting the belt off then spinning or wriggling the pulley and looking for play etc, it will be really tight [ceased and unlikely in your case] to turn or wobbly. Usually get a fluid leak out the seals if its flogged out, thus your fluid loss. When you topped up the fluids [and if it was that much] did you undo the air screw and bleed the air out of the system?

Snowing at my place.............286 metres high and 130km west of ACT, so get ready, it's coming your way.

First you have to find out if it is electrical or fuel! Can you isolate the miss to one cylinder [hard when it doesn't happen 'off load']. Can you swap coil loom? How's the fuel pump, filter, fpr, injectors? If it only happens under load [and you've swapped out the plugs and coils] then could be fuel. Oh, and what was the water from, washing? If its coolant, head gasket or some such for sure!

I'm in if it is to the north or west, too far on a sunday for me if it is to the east or south. So once you decide on the direction etc, I'll confirm.

Are you getting power anywhere?

Thanks Dano

Whats the eventual height increase of an RB30 overan RB25 for the turbo, is it the stroke only? ie 13.3mm/2

Only other thing I'd check is your spark plugs, make sure they are the right ones esp. heat range etc this can affect the amount of build up, but otherwise I agree with Skylinecouple

Mine has the 'dual' drilled and tapped positions. I used the T3 and a GT3076 WG [popular choice for many]. And yes, in theory you could use the T4 footprint for a bigger turbo, but tI wouldn't like to port match the T4 footprint to the turbo [assuming the T4 has a larger throat]. To do that I would guess you'd firstly have to build up the outside with cast weld to strengthen and thicken the metal. If you didn't do this I'm estimating/guessing you'd almost certainly break out, or thin the metal that much it would be too weak and fracture/burn away. By the way, the limiting factor isn't the turbo size, there is plenty of room all round, its the turbo inlet size. I have a 100mm unit and had to cut back the front engine mount for clearance. I actually thought of refacing the mounting position ie cut the T3 mounting face back at an angle [say 5 degree's], this would swing the turbo mouth out a bit, but then you have the stud holes, so you would have to weld them up and retap square to the new face etc. I don't think this would have affected flow, the manifold casting [tubing] is still at a slight angle as it drops to the T3 face - but then I got lazy and left it. Now its on and I CBF, its working, I'm driving, thats it.

And you don't use it for heating, only cooling.

I'd get to it and chuck a separate earth strap on that pump, don't need a power lead, but an earth for SII, and as Abo Bob asked, what pump?